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rear tire alignment

That there is a fancy tool.
I just put a rag between the chain and sprocket, soft cloth, and I always have one near when I'm working on the chain.
 
Why does the chain have different slack at different points in the chain? I re-adjusted mine today, and it drove me crazy because I would get different measurements at different places on the chain.
 
Why does the chain have different slack at different points in the chain? I re-adjusted mine today, and it drove me crazy because I would get different measurements at different places on the chain.

because probably depending on its age (e.g. 20k miles or more) it will have some links that won't move freely and those are called tight spots and so you're measurements will vary between the loose links and the tight ones - don't get too hung up on the measurement, keep the chain clean with wd-40 (or lube if you are paranoid) and keep the chain on the loose end of the spec, so don't let it swing up to the point it touches the swing arm and you'll be alright - then replace when in the red zone.

I need to adjust mine again this weekend cuz it's starting to touch the swing arm and then I reckon I might be reaching near the red zone (once I do another adjustment) at about 20K miles now.
 
I have a 2019 C125A and found the factory (Thailand) wheel alignment off by several flats on the adjusters.
With the bike on the main stand (no side stand) I still use the string method. I'm still surprised how free wheeling the rear tire is.
 
Here's what works for any bike with any sprocket sizes and any suspension travel or modifications. Compress the swingarm so that the back sprocket center lines up with the swingarm pivot point and the countersprocket center. Do 2% total travel of the swingarm pivot point to rear sprocket center for total free play. You can be a little looser than this (3%), but not wise to go much tighter. This can derive a figure once the bike is on its sidestand, that can even be made into a little wooden block with scribe marks or whatever. But with the limited travel and gearing choices for the NC it all ends up being about what's in the manual anyway, if you have pre-sag adjusted correctly...

Chain slack.jpg
Chain slack 2.jpg

For angle alignment I just use my eye. Actually it's easier to do this on my WR250R because the swingarm design is better.
 
Too bad Motion Pro tools costs so much. I'd have a lot more of them otherwise; the ones I've purchased so far kick ass. Maybe I'll make something like their alignment tool... I do have their swiveling-head air chuck tool which is so much better than any angled or ball head chuck I've ever used. Also have their excellent PBR chain break and install kit which I snagged when it was on sale, about half the price they are typically going for these days...
 
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