Put a cheap slip on my NC, got a check engine light

[rippin209]

Just relateed to battery connection? ...or bumped something during the EFI reset steps?

Battery connection is solid, voltage is good both running and not and no I didn't bump anything while doing the reset steps (at least I don't think so) still hoping for a simple fix

 

[rippin209]

Thanks for the advice everyone, I'll keep updating with details as I figure them out, please share and new ideas

 

[Bugs]

Hi everybody,

I had the same problem: Bought an IXIL hyperlow 3 slip on, installed it. First 500km's where fine. Then I got the check engine warning light. So first I changed the airfilter to an K&N highflow and checked if my slip on was secured correctly. Next 100km again no problems but after that: Boom check engine warning light. I reinstalled the original muffler hoping to fix this problem but sadly no luck. Not knowing what to do (I can tinker but am most definitly not a mechanic and was not aware of the engine codes back then). I went to my local motorcylce garage and asked them to look at the problem. They put the kickstand down and where reading the error code (now i know, next time i can do that step myself).

We looked at the Honda NC700x garage instructions and found out it was the sensor that checks the position of the valves, and that it could not get a good reading. I left my bike at the garage for two days and after that they fixed the problem....Although they do not really know what they fixed. They reconnected all the connections at the back of the display and reconnected the connections of the sensor unit.

So now I got a good running engine and a IXIL hyperlow 3 slip on sitting in my kitchen. I do want to put it on but first I want to know more of this error 86 stuff.


By the way: Got an NC700x from 2013, manual.

 

[Bugs]

When looking at this diagram the 86 error comes from the Combination Meter (dashboard). However what is interesting is that the fuel pump unit's sensor goes from the combination meter to the ECM. Well i guess that it is the sensor wire (the left of the 3 wires) since it is a thin one but I am not sure. Any thoughts?

 

[rippin209]

Hi everybody,

I had the same problem: Bought an IXIL hyperlow 3 slip on, installed it. First 500km's where fine. Then I got the check engine warning light. So first I changed the airfilter to an K&N highflow and checked if my slip on was secured correctly. Next 100km again no problems but after that: Boom check engine warning light. I reinstalled the original muffler hoping to fix this problem but sadly no luck. Not knowing what to do (I can tinker but am most definitly not a mechanic and was not aware of the engine codes back then). I went to my local motorcylce garage and asked them to look at the problem. They put the kickstand down and where reading the error code (now i know, next time i can do that step myself).

We looked at the Honda NC700x garage instructions and found out it was the sensor that checks the position of the valves, and that it could not get a good reading. I left my bike at the garage for two days and after that they fixed the problem....Although they do not really know what they fixed. They reconnected all the connections at the back of the display and reconnected the connections of the sensor unit.

So now I got a good running engine and a IXIL hyperlow 3 slip on sitting in my kitchen. I do want to put it on but first I want to know more of this error 86 stuff.


By the way: Got an NC700x from 2013, manual.

Thank you very much, that's the closest situation to mine I've heard of, I will add that to my list of things to look into, I also found my repair manual so that might help lol

 

[Bugs]

Glad that I can help, I am curiouse to what you will find when you reconnect the combination meter and the number 13 of the connection on the ECM.

 

[rippin209]

When looking at this diagram the 86 error comes from the Combination Meter (dashboard). However what is interesting is that the fuel pump unit's sensor goes from the combination meter to the ECM. Well i guess that it is the sensor wire (the left of the 3 wires) since it is a thin one but I am not sure. Any thoughts?

Thank you for the interest in helping and the information, I know the U.S. models aren't equipped with HISS ignitions, so I'm curious if there is any other differences in wiring?

I know that certain years the wire coloring is different for the headlight and possibly something else, I can't remember.

I wonder if the models workout HISS have a immobilizer receiver and if so what does it do?

My electrical literacy is lacking, so thank you for your patience

 

[showkey]

When looking at this diagram the 86 error comes from the Combination Meter (dashboard). However what is interesting is that the fuel pump unit's sensor goes from the combination meter to the ECM. Well i guess that it is the sensor wire (the left of the 3 wires) since it is a thin one but I am not sure. Any thoughts? ]

The fuel pump has three wires:

1. Power wire from the fuel pump relay. ( yellow/red)
2. Ground wire ( green/red)
3. Fuel level sending unit wire to the meter. (Black/green)

ECU wire 13 is data line to the meter. Multiple data or information to the meter.

So there are 3 data lines to the meter, ECU, fuel level and the speed sensor.
That’s why unplugging the meter connector has fixed the 86 code in other cases. The slightest corrosion or “looseness” causes communication error.

The other post mention the position of the valves:
That would be the CKP sensor, or crank position sensor.
There is no code for the CKP, but if it were faulty the engine would not run.

 

[rippin209]

Ok, I believe I've solved my problem.

As usual if your Honda isn't working properly check the things your touched recently.

My new USB outlet that is mounted on my handle bars has a volt meter built in and after checking my battery with my actual volt meter it is accurate, so my battery has power.
While I was removing my battery I noticed the bracket that acts as a post was very slightly loose (I could move it left or right by hand, about 1/4 turn before it got tight)

So I torqued that down good and tight then I disconnected and cleaned every connection, including the dash (meter) gave them time to dry completely, hooked them all back up, fired up my NC, went inside put my gear on and went for a short ride 6 miles no engine light, last time I went for a ride a little over a mile the engine was actually cutting out, so I'm confident problem is solved

 

[TacomaJD]

Awesome! Always feels good to fix something and it not cost anything!

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[davidc83]

Good job....I failed to mention in my earlier post...when I went thru the procedure of disconnecting the dash wires and battery...I found i had loose connections for my 12 volt adapter, my battery tender, and my usb connector (I dont have a power/fuse block installed-need to get one of those)...which tightening those down could have fixed the issue (without disconnecting the dash)....... I remember when I was a kid in the 60s, with my model trains and electric figure 8 race car tracks; sometimes they wouldnt get electricity even though everything looked connected...would have to disconnect the tracks and use a pencil eraser over the connection points and boom,,,everything worked....electrons can be finicky sometimes....

 

[Bugs]

Good to read that your problem is fixed. I am going to try to put my IXIL slip on back on this weekend and see how it rides.

 

[rippin209]

Awesome! Always feels good to fix something and it not cost anything!

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

When something does need fixing, that's my favorite kind[emoji16]

 

[rippin209]

Good job....I failed to mention in my earlier post...when I went thru the procedure of disconnecting the dash wires and battery...I found i had loose connections for my 12 volt adapter, my battery tender, and my usb connector (I dont have a power/fuse block installed-need to get one of those)...which tightening those down could have fixed the issue (without disconnecting the dash)....... I remember when I was a kid in the 60s, with my model trains and electric figure 8 race car tracks; sometimes they wouldnt get electricity even though everything looked connected...would have to disconnect the tracks and use a pencil eraser over the connection points and boom,,,everything worked....electrons can be finicky sometimes....

I have these installed, I have the fuse block in the wall next to the frunk on the left side

OLS 10-Way Blade Fuse Box [LED Indicator for Blown Fuse] [Protection Cover] [100 Amps] - Fuse Block for Automotive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QMULSUI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_jnfF6MFuNgLzi

And the ground block installed on the right side

ONLINE LED STORE 12-Way Modular Ground Terminal Block [Expand with Up to 12 Fuses] [Protective Cover] [Copper Bus Bar] Distribution Block for Jeep Tru https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PL9T6Q2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_38Qjtfbyrh1c4

There are better options but this was the cheapest that works

 

[davidc83]

Yea, I mean to get one but always slip my mine; until I want to add something else...

 

[Bugs]

Ok, a quick update: Last saturday I reinstalled my IXIL Hyperlow 3 slipon and went for a little drive, backroads and highway. No problems at all and everything sounded fine. Sunday I also went for a drive, backroads and highway also no problems. Today I went to work on my bike and after my highway stint I came into town and I noticed something was off. The sound of the bike was more "raspy"/loudly and it backfired when I rolled off the throttle. Sounds cool but also a bit worrying if you ask me. I had ridden 220km's right now, no check engine warning light. Although I would not be surprised if it would pop up when i'm driving home today.

Keeping you posted.

Edit: Made it home without a problem, listened to the engine and exhaust more closely an does not sound that bad actually. Must have been the nerves of maybe happening the same thing that already happened. 280km's done now and no problems.