Oil Extractor?

GregC

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I’m looking at a MityVac 7201 to do oil changes without jacking up my cars and was wondering if this would work on my 2015 NC700 DCT. Since the engine and tranny share the oil I wasn’t sure if extracting through the dip stick port would get it all.

Thanks
 

670cc

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I use an 8 quart oil extractor for my boat, tractors, mowers, generator, etc. I haven’t tried it on the NC, but I think it might be difficult to snake the extractor tube from the dipstick port Into the bottom of the sump. Looking at the attached photo of a manual transmission, the oil passage hole from the clutch housing to the sump is, I think, under the shift drum shaft. I don’t know if that‘s a straight shot from the dipstick hole or not.

As for the automatic transmission version, the clutch housing will be more cluttered on a DCT than on a manual, and the dipstick is in a different location.

I guess you could insert a tube in the dipstick/fill hole, and see if it seems to go all the way to the sump bottom.
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MZ5

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A pump seems like a LOT more hassle to me on this bike than just pulling the drain plug. You’d probably need to stand it up straight, or even tilt it a bit to the right side, to _try_ to get the oil to come across to where you can get the extraction pump tubing. I don’t know your situation as to why it’s problematic to open the drain plug, but for me it’d have to be a significant obstacle before I’d try to change oil with a vampire or vacuum pump.
 

GregC

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Oh it’s no problem removing the plug - I’ve changed the oil a number of times. I was just thinking if I got this extractor to use on my cars whether it would work on the DCT.
 
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DirtFlier

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Using a vacuum pump to drain the NC's oil would probably allow lots of crud to remain at the very bottom of the crankcase.
 
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Griff

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Using a vacuum pump to drain the NC's oil would probably allow lots of crud to remain at the very bottom of the crankcase.

Totally agree, and for that reason I would not be inclined to use a pump on any vehicle. Afaik it is not a process that any manufacturer recommends, at least none that I have ever come across.
 

itsmenc700

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Yes the reason to open the drain is to "flush" out oil and anything else in there will flow with the oil.
Using a vacuum will not.

Forget about the bike, your not doing your car/truck any favors by doing that!!

Not even the quick lube guys do this!!
 

670cc

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Using a vacuum pump to drain the NC's oil would probably allow lots of crud to remain at the very bottom of the crankcase.

Totally agree, and for that reason I would not be inclined to use a pump on any vehicle. Afaik it is not a process that any manufacturer recommends, at least none that I have ever come across.

Yes the reason to open the drain is to "flush" out oil and anything else in there will flow with the oil.
Using a vacuum will not.

Forget about the bike, your not doing your car/truck any favors by doing that!!

Not even the quick lube guys do this!!

Until there is some hard evidence that there is sediment settling at the NC sump bottom, I‘m not going to jump on this "anti vacuum pump" bandwagon.

My observation is that when I drain oil from the sump of my NC, I have not witnessed “crud“ flowing out nor seen evidence of it settled in the bottom of the oil drain pan. Contaminants seem to remain in suspension in the oil, or get trapped by the oil filter. (It’s sometimes suggested that oil be changed shortly after running the engine to suspend any particles that might be in the oil sump).

My boat has twin 4 stroke Rotax engines and there is no way to open a drain plug at the bottom of the engines since the engines are in a crowded bay and sit inches from the bottom of the hull. Oil must be extracted with a vacuum pump, per the service manual. These engines in my boat have run great for over 700 hours and the oil has always been changed by pump extraction.

Although I do not change my NC oil with a pump, I’ll still assume that using a pump to extract used oil from 4 stroke engines is an acceptable practice until proven otherwise.
 
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itsmenc700

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But your logic - since the outboard engine maker says its ok.......
And they are made to have this service done, other engines are not, making it harder to do and maybe not getting all old oil removed.
But HEY if you want to - go ahead.
 

670cc

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But your logic - since the outboard engine maker says its ok.......
I didn’t see any mention of an outboard engine. Did I miss something?
 
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dduelin

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I guess there is no way of knowing if draining via the drain bolt hole even gets all the oil oil out. There are probably areas in the engine and transmission that trap and hold oil when draining it but I still am not using my Topsider Big Boy extractor on anything with wheels.
 

greenboy

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670cc

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I get what you are trying to say about complicating the process, but for engines where the oil extractor pump is applicable, the pump simplifies the oil change process. Pump down the extractor, place the extractor hose in the oil fill port or dipstick tube, come back a while later, pull out the tube, put in fresh oil. No crawling under machines, replacing drain plug crush washers, or looking up drain plug torque specs. If you are doing multiple engine oil changes, this speeds up the process. You can sometimes take the pump tank to your recycle location and dump the oil directly from the tank without ever needing to actually handle the used oil. You might sometimes still need to handle oil filters, but some engines have no oil filter or don’t require the filter change at every oil change.
 
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itsmenc700

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So your a guy who doesnt want his hands to get dirty? You can get gloves to wear. I do.
And crush washer dont need replacing and torque, its just over hand tight.
And as far as speed - how many oil changes to you do?? I can change my car in 15 minutes.
And always replace filter with each oil change.

SO they you have it.
Two differing ideas to oil changes and no one is yelling at the other - hmmm.
If only politics and global warming sides could do the same.............
 

dduelin

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So your a guy who doesnt want his hands to get dirty? You can get gloves to wear. I do.
And crush washer dont need replacing and torque, its just over hand tight.
And as far as speed - how many oil changes to you do?? I can change my car in 15 minutes.
And always replace filter with each oil change.

SO they you have it.
Two differing ideas to oil changes and no one is yelling at the other - hmmm.
If only politics and global warming sides could do the same.............
Too many confuse reason and reasoned response with yelling and censorship.
 

670cc

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So your a guy who doesnt want his hands to get dirty? You can get gloves to wear. I do.
And crush washer dont need replacing and torque, its just over hand tight.
And as far as speed - how many oil changes to you do?? I can change my car in 15 minutes.
And always replace filter with each oil change.
Comments to each of your statements/question:

Yes, I wear gloves during oil changes when I come in contact with used oil and clean-up solvents.

It’s your call on whether to replace your drain plug crush washers and tighten your drain plugs with a torque wrench to the specified torque, but I certainly do it on my engines whenever applicable. What do you mean by “just over hand tight”? Do you lean on it a bit with your foot? That potentially inconsistent, unmeasured method could be a recipe for stripped aluminum threads.

I lose count on the number of gasoline and diesel engines I have, but I think at the moment it is around 23, but two of them are 2-strokes with no crankcase oil, and on some I don’t change their oil annually. But yes, it’s still potentially a lot of oil changes. That’s why the vacuum pump comes in handy with some of the engines.

Honda’s maintenance schedule on later models of NC series engines calls for oil change every 8000 miles, and oil filter replacement every 16,000 miles. My Honda CRF250 maintenance schedule is the same: oil change every 8000 miles, while the oil filter replacement is at 16,000 mile intervals, or every other oil change. I figure Honda knows something about the maintenance requirements for the engines they build, and I think it would be safe to follow their recommended maintenance intervals.
 

Griff

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Personaly, whether there are or are not merits to using an extractor to change oil, I am never comfortable sticking anything into the crankcase of any motor, especially when it gets completely out of my line of sight.

Yesterday when changing the oil on my old NX it was clear to me that the lowest possible point where the oil would be was the point where the sump plug was placed with the bike on the sidestand. Putting a tube inside the motor to extract oil will not always guarantee that one will reach that spot.
 

DirtFlier

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Yes, using a flexible vinyl or rubber hose, it's impossible to know how far the tip as gone into the sump.
 

itsmenc700

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Well I guess my comment about not picking on each other went over your head!?

And thanks Griff - I think that is what we all were trying to get across.
 
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