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Question New Tires

Heck of a price for a "set" of tires though. If you order from them let us know how it goes.
At American Moto Tire, the Shinko Raven set is also that price but for whatever reason, they don’t collect sales tax, so the bottom line is cheaper for me at AMT. Perhaps your state of residence has some bearing on whether AMT collects tax, but eBay always does for me, AMT does not.
 
Yea, finally got around to changing both tires. Getting the old tire off was the tough part... getting that tight bead off the rim. I put the tire on the roof to warm it up good and used Bead Buster lube & spoons & guards. It was still a struggle, but my vice and some clamps helped me out. The Tusk balance was good and the're running smooth now. I'll probably do that way again next time. I was careful but still had a few scratches to touch up with paint.
 
Yea, finally got around to changing both tires. Getting the old tire off was the tough part... getting that tight bead off the rim. I put the tire on the roof to warm it up good and used Bead Buster lube & spoons & guards. It was still a struggle, but my vice and some clamps helped me out. The Tusk balance was good and the're running smooth now. I'll probably do that way again next time. I was careful but still had a few scratches to touch up with paint.
The easiest way to break the bead without a machine is to use a stout 2x4x8 to lever it. Lay the tire/wheel on scrap lumber, be careful of the disc. The tire/rim should not touch the ground. Get a short 2x4 (about 18” depending on the height of your vehicle), place it on the tire close to the rim vertically, all near a car or truck. Using the short vertical board as the fulcrum, push down on the 8’ board like a lever as if you are trying to lift your truck. Work the bead to the center on both side and use tire irons to remove the tire. Hope this makes sense it work’s great.
 
I love it when you find a way around things... cool. With a long enough Lever and a fulcrum and you can bust a Bead.
I'll use that principle next time. Thanks!
Also, the Tusk balancer was pretty sensitive. In addition to the normal stick-on weights, I added a small washer to zero the balance.
 
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They’re certainly bargain priced, but this is the first I’ve heard of the brand. One negative for me is the rear tire has no tread in the very center, from what I can see. Their photo is poor.

On a PC sized screen I can see the rears have grooves very close to center line and some initials molded across the center line of the tire approximately 9 times around the circumference.
 
On a PC sized screen I can see the rears have grooves very close to center line and some initials molded across the center line of the tire approximately 9 times around the circumference.
Yes, you're right, the tread grooves apparently get close to, but do not cross center. With straight local roads and long highway miles, my rear tire always wears dead center first. I like a tire that puts the wear bars at or near center, because that is where the main wear is.

I’ve had tires where the wear bars, being way off center, were fine; tire had no tread groove in the center to judge rubber thickness. Go for a short ride and the next thing I know there’s cord showing down the middle.
 
What about the initials molded dead center across the tire? Those would give exact record of wear on the center line.
 
What about the initials molded dead center across the tire? Those would give exact record of wear on the center line.
It depends on how deep the lettering extends into the tread, and how much rubber remains below that; who knows?
 
It depends on how deep the lettering extends into the tread, and how much rubber remains below that; who knows?
Unless you cut the tire in cross section or from prior experience you don’t know how much rubber remains under a tire wear indicator either.
 
Unless you cut the tire in cross section or from prior experience you don’t know how much rubber remains under a tire wear indicator either.
I know there is at least as much rubber under the raised wear bar as there is tread depth in the groove where the indicator is placed. But when I hit the wear indicator, I replace the tire anyway, so it doesn’t matter. The problem is that the wear indicator is very rarely placed where the wear is greatest - in the center. So, having a tread groove there in the center at least gives me some indication.

If the tire manufacture puts tread grooves across the centerline and puts a wear indcator there periodically around the circumference, I will know precisely when the tire is worn beyond safe use.
 
Yes, you're right, the tread grooves apparently get close to, but do not cross center. With straight local roads and long highway miles, my rear tire always wears dead center first. I like a tire that puts the wear bars at or near center, because that is where the main wear is.

I’ve had tires where the wear bars, being way off center, were fine; tire had no tread groove in the center to judge rubber thickness. Go for a short ride and the next thing I know there’s cord showing down the middle.
I had never considered the position of the wear bars. Appreciate the post.
 
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