NC700X ignition (total failure)

Scorpio54

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Hello guys (and girls) Can I firstly apologise if this has been asked before.... I have scoured the internet and have come up with some similar problems as my own , 1 or 2 addressed on this forum, but not with the same solution (just my luck!) . If I give a bit of background on the bike it may help.....
I bought the bike recently as a winter work hack, its an NC700X on a year 2012. it has highish mileage at 46,000. When I bought the bike it started and run with no issues. I bought the bike cheapish as it has 15 failures on the MOT most of which I feel capable of repairing myself. The bike has almost full service history, but is extremely cosmetically challenged and filthy, its been well used as a work horse.
So far I have stripped off most of the fairing, degreased and jet washed off (carefully) most of the crud on the underside and sides of the bike (battery removed). I also removed a naff heated handlebar grip set up) Three of the MOT failures related to electrical faults (horn and brake lights working intermittently) so, I set about with a fully charged and tested battery, running at just under 13V to address the electrical problems, on turning on the ignition, the whole system is dead, no drain/change in the battery with ignition on or off.
I have double checked ALL of the fuses which are intact and all in clean bright condition (also checked the 30amp starter relay fuse, good). I have checked all of the wiring I can find which appears unmolested and in good condition, all earth points are sound. I have spent hours trying to find the fault with no luck :-( my last place to check is obviously going to be the ignition switch, which looks like the front fairing will have to come off.........
The only course of action if I cannot find any faults with the switch is to take the bike to an auto electrician, I am just starting back to work which is what I need the bike for, so could really do without the expense, so if anyone out there could help me I would be extremely grateful in advance for any assistance. (I have a multi tester, which I can use on basic testing, but I am certainly no expert on in depth testing of electrical circuitry)
Again, sorry for the long winded story, but sometimes more info is better than less. I hope! stay well all. :)
 

DirtFlier

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Did you have the battery "load tested" or just measure voltage using a voltmeter? As regards the latter, it sometimes reads what we call surface voltage even with a nearly dead battery.
 

Scorpio54

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Hi DirtFlier, many thanks for the response, not sure how to load test the battery, buy you have possibly identified a key suspect. i will get it checked and report back. Thanks again for responding :) Pete
 
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the whole system is dead,

HI and Welcome. This sounds exactly like a blown 30A main fuse (which can happen if the battery is inadvertently connected backwards, even for a split second). It's a little difficult to find. Do you know where it is? I have the same bike and can walk you through it.
 

670cc

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HI and Welcome. This sounds exactly like a blown 30A main fuse (which can happen if the battery is inadvertently connected backwards, even for a split second). It's a little difficult to find. Do you know where it is? I have the same bike and can walk you through it.
30 Amp fuse at starter relay mentioned in first post. Is that the fuse you speak of?
 
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Yup, I missed that part. I saw that he wrote all fuses looked clean and bright part and was thinking what if he missed the main fuse. Seen it happen many times when inexperienced folkd try to jump-start a bike. :)
 
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One more thought, it would be worth back-probing that fuse with a voltmeter or test light before tearing into the aforementioned Ignition switch. Just to make double sure that the problem isn't a bad connection at the battery terminal. (I had that happen to me on a seadoo with a hard to reach battery) I remember at the time that it "looked" tight. :)
 

Scorpio54

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Thanks for the input guys, much appreciated :) I have checked the main 30 amp fuse in the starter relay (opposite side to the fuse box) which is fine. I have a sneaky suspicion as Dirflier states it could still be the battery?. I have no means at the moment to load test the battery, what fooled me was when I bought the bike the seller said the bike had stood a while and the battery may require charging (it was a bit sluggish to start) when i got the bike home I trickle charged the battery and it did show initially a full charge after several hours. I have just charged it again (a week later) and its now not showing a full charge? .
So, the bit that's fooling me away from the battery, is that I thought I would at least get a dash board display on whatever charge is in the battery? (these are the bits about electrics I have no clue on....) I am on the verge of ordering a new battery just to rule this part out. once again I really appreciate the input of you guys its very welcome.... I will of course update the thread as this conundrum unfolds. :)


PS Sorry, forgot to mention its a HISS version.....
 
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Hi, the gauge cluster alone draws minimal current and in theory can be powered by the battery tender. However, the headlight and the fuel pump both turn on with the ign. switch and will draw too much current for the average tender. The fuel pump can be disabled by the red engine stop switch on the right handlebar, but the headlight (if original) draws between 4-5 amps which is still too much current for most small MC battery tenders. I think you could probably unplug the headlight bulb and test that the ign. switch will power up the gauge cluster from the tender, but i've never tried that and I'm not 100% sure if it would work.

I think it would be easier and more reliable us use jumper cables and temporarily power up the bike from another 12V battery, but let me know what you're thinking and what you have available to work with.

-Saturday
 

DirtFlier

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Scorpio54 - your location says "Cardiff" so I assume that means Wales?

I don't know what things are different on bikes for the UK but I'm fairly certain most of them are fitted with the dreaded Honda HISS system. We've never had HISS on any Honda motorcycle sold in the states so few riders or techs have experience with HISS.

Here in the states, auto parts stores typically offer battery charging and their machine often has a load tester. They usually load test the battery after charging so they can tell you if it tested OK or that you need a new battery. Better to find out there then go home and reinstall the battery only to discover the engine still won't crank!

You might ask your local auto parts store if they have a similar service.
 

Griff

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Have never, over the years since its introduction, heard of any issues with HISS tbh. My money is on the battery or as also suggested above, a dodgy ignition switch. I did have an isue with the ignition switch on my NX and some manipulation with silicone spray sorted that.
 

Scorpio54

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Happy to report problem solved.... It turned out to be a set of ignition wires that run down the left side of the bike as you sit on it, there is a terminal (not easily visible pinned to the frame about knee height behind the fairing), it contains two red wires one with a black trace. The one with the black trace was completely corroded with green verdigree and the copper wire some inches either side was black, visual examination didnt reveal it, it was only when I tried to take it appart for check examinaion it literally fell appart..... Having cut it back and made a sound soldered connection, ignition was resored. Many thanks to all those who gave valuable input into possible causes, its all a learning curve. :)
 

DirtFlier

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Hey, great detective work! :)

My guess is that's its pretty damp with sea air where you live so maybe you should check for more dodgy connectors?
 
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