My new 750x DCT

[fschodt]

Two weeks ago I traded in my DL650 with 65,000 miles for a new NC750x DCT with center stand, hand guards, and Givi rack for my box. I'm enjoying getting used to it.

A couple of very basic questions.

In the frunk, my Shoei 1100 helmet barely fits. I know that there is a document compartment at the bottom of the frunk, but at the front (?) of it, there seems to be some molding of the plastic, a couple of bulges, that look like something is supposed to rest on them. I can't figure out what it is. Anyone know?

On my DL650 I occasionally used an OnGuard disk lock, the kind that you insert into one of the holes in your front disc brake, and then run a day-glow orange string back to your handlebar, so you don't forget and wreck your bike when you start out. It's very compact and convenient, but the model I have doesn't fit through any of the holes in the NC front disc brake (at least I can't get seem to get it to fit). Does anyone have a suggested replacement? Something similarly compact?

Right now, I'm very much enjoying the new bike. A couple of things I find surprising are the hardness of the ride, and the clunk that I sometimes hear when it autoshifts out of first. But maybe these resolve a bit after break-in? Maybe the latter is normal? Also, I'm 6'2", and I don't seem to have quite as good wind protection as I did on the DL650, so I might in the future try to upgrade the screen. The Honda stock handguards also seem to provide almost no protection compared to my old Acerbis ones. One thing I find I truly love is the ability to downshift (use engine braking) when in D mode, just using the left downshift paddle. So far, I haven't had much occasion to use S mode. I got 65 miles on my second tank of gas, which is much better than the old DL650 (which got about 42-45). I'm hoping that one tank of gas would last for 200 miles, but maybe that's optimistic? Do most people fill up around 180? I had been warned that the bike was not powerful or fast enough, but for me, it's plenty fast!

Thanks much. {plz excuse typo in heading. Should read 750x)

Fred

 

[FezUSA]

Congrats!!

The front wall of my 2016 frunk is a cover to the battery that also had a stretch-cord for holding, in my case, a Ziploc bag with important docs, but can hold other stuff too. Post a pic if you can and you might get a better answer! It could also be for the bike lock that some have found, if I remember correctly.

Don't have a disk lock so can't help you there.

There can be a clunk going 1 > 2 at low speeds I've found. Accelerating faster remedies that though

I switched to the Madstad which you will find a lot of people have and like. There are other choices to, search the forums and you'll find lots of results and pictures. I have the SW-M Kobra handguards with extensions and LED's installed, there are a couple of Barkbuster models that will work and are very popular, and there is an Acerbis model (with optional lights) as an option too.

I used D for a while, then S1 > S2 > S3 and then back to S2. This gave me a good upshift/downshift combo. I primarily use M now and up/down shift when I want, although it will downshift on it's own still as it approaches the stall point. This is nice for gentle coasting up to red lights when there's nothing behind you. I also find I very rarely manually shift into 1st. I will downshift as far as 2nd and the bike will autoshift to 1st as I come to a stop.

I average 65-70 in the summer and 60-65 in the early spring/ late fall. I also don't mind riding for a while in 'reserve' mode and will regularly go 40 miles or so on it. I usually fill up when I get 5 miles or so into 0.7 of the reserve fuel used. It will go to 0.8 and that's when you're really on fumes! I only have a 13 mile ride to work and can pass multiple gas stations so I've run it quite low before! I generally don't start reserve mode until about 180 miles, so getting 200 miles a tank shouldn't be a problem for you. I have the 18" Madstad, weigh probably 200 geared up and have a 10lb bag on my rear carrier.

I came from the PCX150 and primarily use it as a back road commuter. Power and speed are plenty! Some here tour the nation with it, me I'd probably choose the ST1100/1300 or the VFR1200X (DCT) if I was planning on a lot of serious trips.

 

[flyinfree.00]

The spot in the frunk is for a U-lock. Honda doesn't sell it here, but I believe it is available overseas.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

 

[dduelin]

Welcome and congratulations on the new bike.

The disc lock that fits my bikes has a pin approximately 5 mm in diameter. I don't use it anymore and can't even remember the brand or model so I'm also not much help.

If the 750 is like the 700 the low fuel light comes on with approximately 1 gallon remaining. I go 40-50 miles easily on the flashing light and at 65 mpg the tank is good for 220 miles with a small reserve. I like the Madstad with it's winglets and the Barkbusters for wind management. The Madstad makes the NC a bike you can tour on.

The transmission makes a bit of noise shifting/downshifting in the lower gears, normal.

 

[melensdad]

My wife has a 2016 NC700x and I have an '18 NC750x. Both with DCT transmissions. There is a definite "clunk" when you engage D and also from 1st to 2nd. Less of a clunk from 2nd to 3rd. It the same for both of our bikes.

My wife has a size M HJC full face helmet that fits in her Frunk. I have a size L Arai Defiance full face and I cannot close the lid on my Frunk with my helmet installed. Be happy your Shoei actually fits inside and the lid closes.

Both of our bikes have a MadStad windshield installed. They sell different sizes for different height riders. At 6'2" you probably need a 22" windshield if you buy a MadStad; if you give them a look and are considering an upgrade you should send them an email. I found them to be very responsive to my questions and answered my emails fairly quickly. Can't speak to other brands. I'm 6' and use a 20" windshield.

 

[jimmy da vig]

Mines pretty new and the best mileage was on a tour on Skyline Drive and the Blue Ridge Parkway. 86 mpg. That was with stock saddle bags, tank bag and rear bag. Speed there is restricted to 35 mph and 45 mph. I ran about 5 over.

That was the only time I used the saddle bags. Otherwise it's the tank and rear bags. Of course even without the baggage I ride much faster on the local roads. Then my lowest mileage was 72 mpg. Average is 75-76. Plenty for a easy 200 miles.

 

[SilverRocket]

I use a disklock almost every time I park my bike. I don't bother trying to get the right one that will fit inside the holes, I just slip it on the disk where there's that wide space, between the part with the holes and the ABS ring. If you ever feel you might be having any issues with the lock be sure to use the warranty and get another before it breaks. Mine failed, and, as seen in the photo, I had to hire a locksmith to cut it off. AAA did NOT help me, so don't bother with them.

I use the Puig windscreen, seen in the 2nd photo. I liked the way it looks, in light tint. I'm pretty sure it's also a direct replacement for your stock screen on the 750 as it was for me on my 700. I added one of those eBay attachments later to give a few more inches and it works well. My next bike (750?) I will probably go with the full Madstad screen.

The plastic molding is also a cover for the battery compartment. I suppose it could be removed to make a helmet fit better (My GT Air and Neotec won't fit with my Sena attached) but then you really should fabricate some sort of cover. I think there is some heat that comes in through there.

 

[Rapturee]

Great choice on the bike, Welcome to the RIDE!! :{)

 

[fschodt]

Thanks much for all the great replies. This is a very helpful forum, and I'm glad to be a member.

Last week I commuted 400 miles, mainly on 280 in the SF Bay Area, and I got about 65 mpg average, which seems very good to me, especially since people drive very fast on that freeway. Now, I need to take the bike in for my free 600 mile tune up. I am very happy with way the bike works. One thing that's a bit disappointing is that the suspension seems quite harsh, compared to my old DL650. I wonder if it will soften up a bit, as the bike wears in? Has anyone else had this experience? My feelings about this maybe reflecting the fact that I injured my back a week ago, so I really notice it when the bike goes over a bump in the freeway at high speed. And in California we now have a lot of bumps. :- (

 

[dduelin]

The suspension isn't going to get any better. Overall it's not bad but those small, sharp edged bumps on the freeway overwhelm the high speed compression and pass the jolt right into the bars and seat. Good news, for about $200 it's fixable with Cogent Dynamic DDC cartridge emulators.

Honda Performance Suspension Upgrades - Cogent Dynamics

 

[fschodt]

Today I took my bike in for its free 600 mile tune up. I mentioned the harshness of the ride, and I was told that the rear suspension can actually be adjusted a bit (for $25). I don’t really know if it will help or not, but I should find out soon. I wonder if anyone else has had this done?

 

[SilverRocket]

Sounds like they're just going to change the setting on the rear shock.
The owner's manual didn't seem to show how to do this, but usually it's easy, but a bit of a bit of a knuckle buster.

 

[GregC]

You can adjust the preload on the rear shock by turning the locking rings. There’s a lot of posts around here about how to properly set the preload for the correct amount of sag. It’s not hard and I’m not sure the dealer is going to go through the process for $25 - they’re probably just going to guesstimate how much to turn the rings. You can do that yourself - you can get a spanner wrench to turn the rings, or use the old “hammer and screwdriver” method.

It can certainly help a bit to have the shock set for your weight - however it’s not going to be night and day. For example, I’m 6’ and 235lb and I adjusted the shock for the correct sag, but that didn’t leave a lot of “working room” for the shock. I needed a new shock with the correct spring for my weight (I ultimately bought an Ohlins and that made a huge difference).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[dduelin]

The adjustment the dealer can make to the rear shock will not affect the harshness of the suspension. The forks and shock are not adjustable for compression damping which is the harshness you feel over sharp bumps. The shock preload adjustment sets ride height and will only effectively raise the seat height.

Edit to add that as GregC noted if you are a heavier rider the preload adjustment can push the ride height up to where the shock is able to absorb a hit before bottoming out at the limit of travel which is very harsh when it hits the limit of travel. Generally speaking though the preload adjustment will not change the stiffness of the spring.

 

[fschodt]

After the adjustment, I can say that I understand earlier comments. It doesn’t seem to make much difference.

I’ll probably try to get used to the hard ride, and maybe after a half year or so try to upgrade the suspension. For now, I’m trying to ride a bit more on the balls of my feet, and absorb more shock with my legs; the disadvantage of this, of course, is that it makes it a bit harder to use the rear brake, but I normally rely mainly on engine braking and the front brake, unless it’s a true emergency.

Thanks for all input and advice.

Fred

 

[fschodt]

Here’s a question about upgrading the suspension. Is it really dumb to upgrade just the rear shocks, or is it always best to upgrade the front, too?

 

[Hank]

I think the general consensus is that if you upgrade the rear you will realize how bad the front is.

 

[kpinvt]

Congratulations on your new bike and welcome to the forum.

 

[GregC]

Here’s a question about upgrading the suspension. Is it really dumb to upgrade just the rear shocks, or is it always best to upgrade the front, too?

I think practically speaking you can do the rear then the front later to spread out the cost. The rear is expensive and to me made a big, big difference. I did an Ohlins on the rear. You will indeed then notice the front, but it’s not like the bike is unstable or anything.

Personally, I did fine just changing front springs and oil - many do emulators as well but that was just a bridge too far price-wise on an $8k bike. I’m enjoying the bike much more with the rear shock and fork springs.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[fschodt]

On a very good note, two of my recent 100 mile commutes have yielded between 68 and 72 miles per gallon. That’s mixed traffic using 880 in the San Francisco Bay Area. It seems that on flat stretches 6th gear and 60 mph is something of a sweet spot for the bike.