• A few people have been scammed on the site, Only use paypal to pay for items for sale by other members. If they will not use paypal, its likely a scam NEVER SEND E-TRANSFERS OF ANY KIND.

Madstad + SW-M Kobra hand guard on 2016 DCT

FezUSA

Elite Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2015
Messages
454
Reaction score
11
Points
18
Location
NE Ohio
Visit site
So I've gone back through the instructions and reviewed all of the pictures people have posted and I'm not sure what I'm missing. I do NOT have risers on my handlebars, but maybe I have my guards not installed at the best angle?!! The problem is that the hand guards do not clear the deflectors, not even close. Full lock isn't even remotely in the neighbourhood. The guards don't approach the main windshield because the deflectors are in the way. I was reluctant to go for a real ride so I just went up the street and around the corner. That was OK, then I decided to turn around and come back. Struggled to turn around as I hit the deflectors. Got on my driveway and I normally to a 2-step 180 to back the bike into it's spot. It took 4-steps!!

Any ideas or pointers?

2017-04-08-18.53.52-web.jpg

2017-04-08-18.54.12-web.jpg

2017-04-08-18.56.28-web.jpg
 
My feeling is one or the other has to go. Even without the handguards my wind deflectors will touch on one side at full lock. That's the downside of aftermarkets parts; sometimes they don't play nicely together. :(
 
I expected the guards to touch the screen at full lock, or be very close (they recently shaved the screen size a little to improve this), but I didn't expect them to NOT clear the deflectors and to give me very little turn well before they even approach the screen. That's why I'm wondering if I have something set up either wrong or not as well as it could be. No one else that I'm aware of has complained of not being able to turn past the deflectors, and the pictures I've seen show set ups with guards and deflectors on. But maybe they have risers, or their guards are different somehow. I looked at some of the recent installs and I think I have the deflector mounts on the correct side of the bike and the right way up, and i have the deflectors themselves set up right, so you may be right and it's one or the other.

It's supposed to be in the 70's tomorrow, so I may loosen the nuts and remove the deflector mounts & deflectors and take a ride. I'm not so worried about air on the hands as that is why I have the guards. But I want to cut down the wind noise level at my helmet. If that's accomplished with just the windshield I'll still be happy!
 
You will need to get risers that move the handlebars up and back. I had the same problem, the risers cured it.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
If not the Kobras, then which hand guards fit well with Madstad wind deflectors...assuming no bar risers?

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 
That is my set up as well, but I have one inch risers.
The windshield hits the mirror stem on one side and the handguards on the other, but I don't think it is costing me more than a tiny bit of turn. The risers make a difference.
 
s-l1600.jpg
 

Fez I ordered a set of these over the winter but have not attempted to install them. I'll give it a go this morning and take pictures. I have the same setup as you with the 2016 and Madstad winglets. Currently my brake lever just touches the winglet, I don't have guards.

Edit: I only got as far as removing the handlebar bolts. None of the cables seem to have any slack, I'd have to remove some plastic to get a good look but I suspect it's not just a matter of snipping some tie wraps. The brake hose is really tight, looks like a longer one would be needed...anyway, I failed and I'm going for a ride!
 
Last edited:
I think you must have the winglets or their mounting brackets installed wrong, my stock height handlebars don't even come close to the winglets when turning. I had the cheap cycle gear handguards on my bike and they did hit the Madstad windshield so I took them off but even they weren't close to the winglets
 
I only got as far as removing the handlebar bolts. None of the cables seem to have any slack, I'd have to remove some plastic to get a good look but I suspect it's not just a matter of snipping some tie wraps. The brake hose is really tight, looks like a longer one would be needed...anyway, I failed and I'm going for a ride!

Here are some pictures for reference:
1.jpg
 
I think you must have the winglets or their mounting brackets installed wrong, my stock height handlebars don't even come close to the winglets when turning. I had the cheap cycle gear handguards on my bike and they did hit the Madstad windshield so I took them off but even they weren't close to the winglets

I concur - just looked - maybe he has the brackets switched? Look closely at the shape of the openings on his brackets and mine (my winglets stay clear of the bars easily).

(later after more careful inspection...are the winglet brackets different on a 2016 vs a 2014?)

Note - my Givi handgards do hit the actual windscreen on full luck, but the handguards are soft plastic and give easily which make this a non-safety issue. I just have the guards on in the winter for wind protection.

IMG_5491.jpg
 
Last edited:
I only got as far as removing the handlebar bolts. None of the cables seem to have any slack

Didn't have to change routing anywhere, pulled slack up without even undoing anything. I suspect it comes down to whoever assembled the NC in the first place and where they dressed the various wiring harnesses.
 
The winglets design is different on the 2016+ model, as is the mounting brackets. They originally sent me pre-2016 versions and I've currently got both sets until I send the old style back. And no, there's no way to mix them up as the mounting bolts are different distances apart! I took them off this morning and went for a ride. I've only tried a couple of screen positions so far, and need to try more as there was no difference in noise at the helmet level. Most of the wind definitely seems to be coming over and around the indicators, so those deflectors seem like they're much needed!

I think 1" risers are called for, as others have mentioned. Sumo, there's another recent post by Helix installing risers and he did remove some plastics to get to a cable 'hook' to free up slack on the brake line. Seems to think it might be possible to do without removing plastics now that we know what we're looking for. Not sure how the rest of the cables are. Also, from other posts in general, it seems like 1" risers should be OK, 2" gets a little tight.

I just went back out to the bike with the brackets. There really is only one way to install them. If you flip them over or try them on the other side of the bike they just won't work. For now I'll leave them off and look at 1" riser options, specifically the Motowerk ones that Helix installed on his 2016.
 
Not decided yet between the Motowerks linked earlier in the thread, or SW-Motech ones which are available in a range of heights and they even a "Barback" version which is 31mm up and 22mm back for a 38mm (or 1.5") triangulated adjustment. This will give a little more than the 1" risers up AND back without stretching the lines to 2" which seems to be the maximum. The ones that Greenboy & Sumo have would be the best value though if I decide to go the "Barback" route vs. a straight rise.

In other good news, I dropped the screen to it's lowest and most vertical setting this morning and my bike sounds like a completely different beast!! If I raised myself off the saddle even an inch it was back to the normal noise level. So I'm much happier with this. There was still some noise and some airflow coming around and over the indicators, but it was so much quieter, and much quieter than having the screen at the mid & highest level. I'll continue to play with it to see how the various height and angle settings affect the noise and airflow, but I'm happy knowing that I've got at least one option for a quieter ride!!

Oh, and someone else posted this in an earlier thread about this screen: you go faster!! Looked down at one point and realised I was +10 over my normal speed!! Good timing as I slowed down and not 30 seconds later a trooper passed in the opposite direction and as usual looked at their radar readout! Got a little worried because a mile down the road and I saw flashing blue lights in my mirrors. Pulled the car over behind me though!!
 
I haven't taken my handlebars off yet, but I'm thinking about installing risers that move the bar back so I can sit further back and more upright.

From the looks of it my cables are really tight.

I did see another post awhile back from someone who changed to a shorter bar with more vertical in the U section.
The controls were moved up, but closer together so the net change in cable length was nil, other than a little bit more effort to steer.
 
I used the ROX risers on my 2013 NC700xd and I have the MadStad with winglets and do not have the problem with them. I also had enough slack in the cabling and all, that I was able to install without binding problems.
 
I only got as far as removing the handlebar bolts. None of the cables seem to have any slack, I'd have to remove some plastic to get a good look but I suspect it's not just a matter of snipping some tie wraps. The brake hose is really tight, looks like a longer one would be needed...anyway, I failed and I'm going for a ride!

Here are some pictures for reference:
View attachment 33033
Really like the looks of those risers... what brand?
 
Back
Top