JUNCTION "G" Wiring
- Thread starter Richierich99
- Start date
Looks like a ground buss. The ground wires tie together at this common point
Jujulie1969
New Member
Hi! Related to this question (should I start a new thread?) I found a burned out wire coming from this junction g. It was a short run, possibly was headed for the rectifier per my 2013 diagram, but it literally was burned off and just sitting in the shrink wrapping with some other wires. I don't know how much I need to worry about this. Hoping to go MC camping next month and would like to either fix it or be reassured that it doesn't matter. Like an appendix. Hahah.
I have photos if that's helpful... thanks!
I have photos if that's helpful... thanks!
Jujulie1969
New Member
showkey
Super Mods
That wire “saw“ a direct short with unfused power.
Very……..Lucky the bike did not catch fire.
It would be important to find the cause and do a complete repair.
Since the wire is now broken there should some device or function that does not work.
Very……..Lucky the bike did not catch fire.
It would be important to find the cause and do a complete repair.
Since the wire is now broken there should some device or function that does not work.
Jujulie1969
New Member
Before I found the wire, I removed a jacket heater attachment that was directly attached to the battery terminals because I didn't need it. The battery, however, wasn't installed correctly by the guy I bought it from. He also didn't use the jacket warmer, ever. When I went to investigate why the battery terminal screws were somewhat looseley spinning vs tight, I found that he hadn't screwed them into the little blocks within the brackets around the terminals. So, I attached things correctly while also removing the jacket warmer.
I've tested everything else, after market etc. Oxford grips, fog lights, 12v accessory, and all lights/flashers etc. I can't find anything not working. I wonder if the loose battery connection and /or the jacket warmer (not sure if it was switched or just hot all the time?) would have caused the short? I am still trying to get some help locally to diagnose, so thanks for any other thoughts and ideas.
I've tested everything else, after market etc. Oxford grips, fog lights, 12v accessory, and all lights/flashers etc. I can't find anything not working. I wonder if the loose battery connection and /or the jacket warmer (not sure if it was switched or just hot all the time?) would have caused the short? I am still trying to get some help locally to diagnose, so thanks for any other thoughts and ideas.
showkey
Super Mods
Are those aftermarket accessories mentioned in post #6 fused ? Either individual fuses or a fuse block.
Are there multiple ground wires connected to the negative battery post for those accessories ?
Is that burned wire repaired and now grounded or reconnected to the junction block or an alternate ground ?
That burned wire…….was that followed back to the point where its NOT burned ?
Does the battery maintain a charge with use ? Engine running 13.5-14.0 volts And NOT over charging 15-20 volts.
The shop manual does not show a connector pin cavity wire identification diagram for the ground junction block.
There is a harness splice circle in yellow.
The actual chassis ground bolted connection is circled in red.
Are there multiple ground wires connected to the negative battery post for those accessories ?
Is that burned wire repaired and now grounded or reconnected to the junction block or an alternate ground ?
That burned wire…….was that followed back to the point where its NOT burned ?
Does the battery maintain a charge with use ? Engine running 13.5-14.0 volts And NOT over charging 15-20 volts.
The shop manual does not show a connector pin cavity wire identification diagram for the ground junction block.
There is a harness splice circle in yellow.
The actual chassis ground bolted connection is circled in red.
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Jujulie1969
New Member
Wow, thanks for the detailed questions and diagram explanation. I am new to trying to read the wiring diagram and matching it to what I found. I'll do my best to answer your questions!
So far, here is what I've found. There is more I can look at, but maybe what I tell you here will help.
I believe (I was excited and didn't know what I was looking for when I bought the bike...all I knew is the test drive was smooth as silk and everything seemed to function properly, and so I paid and rode it home.) Anyway, I believe...the battery tender connection was just sitting in the frunk the day I bought it. Remember, the guy I bought from had just incorrectly replaced the battery. Hmm. I just pulled the battery tender out of the frunk now and it is fused and the fuse is blown!
Now, I do remember that the jacket heater was connected to positive and negative battery terminals, which were not correctly fastened to the little blocks in the terminal frames. I removed this before I knew there was a wire burned just behind the battery case area. Junction g. The jacket heater wiring is fused and the fuse looks fine.
The Oxford grips are wired in somewhere above the battery, not sure exactly where. I would need to and certainly can open things up and investigate more. They have an on/off switch, but when I leave it on and turn the bike off and then on again, the heater control comes back on, too.
The burned wire starts where it comes out of junction g orange box. I cut away the shrink wrap to follow it and it eventually just ends about 5 inches later, after taking a turn within the shrink wrap. It looked like a u-turn, and I assumed this might be the wire going to the rectifier since it seemed like it was a short run. The entire length was burned/no insulation left. Currently (no pun intended) the wire is just sitting wrapped in electrical tape, not connected to anything but the junction box.
The battery is holding a charge just fine after 2 months or so. I have not tested it for volts...I think I have a voltmeter somewhere.
I don't understand what you were trying to explain re the diagram but maybe someone else will understand if/when I get some local help.
I'm wondering if the guy I bought from went to replace the battery and the incorrect install caused the battery tender fuse to blow, so he took it off. The jacket heater was never used by him nor me, so that fuse held? Wouldn't the fuse on the battery tender protect the battery and wiring from frying, though? Or could that be the thing that fried the fuse and the wire?
Thanks again!
So far, here is what I've found. There is more I can look at, but maybe what I tell you here will help.
I believe (I was excited and didn't know what I was looking for when I bought the bike...all I knew is the test drive was smooth as silk and everything seemed to function properly, and so I paid and rode it home.) Anyway, I believe...the battery tender connection was just sitting in the frunk the day I bought it. Remember, the guy I bought from had just incorrectly replaced the battery. Hmm. I just pulled the battery tender out of the frunk now and it is fused and the fuse is blown!
Now, I do remember that the jacket heater was connected to positive and negative battery terminals, which were not correctly fastened to the little blocks in the terminal frames. I removed this before I knew there was a wire burned just behind the battery case area. Junction g. The jacket heater wiring is fused and the fuse looks fine.
The Oxford grips are wired in somewhere above the battery, not sure exactly where. I would need to and certainly can open things up and investigate more. They have an on/off switch, but when I leave it on and turn the bike off and then on again, the heater control comes back on, too.
The burned wire starts where it comes out of junction g orange box. I cut away the shrink wrap to follow it and it eventually just ends about 5 inches later, after taking a turn within the shrink wrap. It looked like a u-turn, and I assumed this might be the wire going to the rectifier since it seemed like it was a short run. The entire length was burned/no insulation left. Currently (no pun intended) the wire is just sitting wrapped in electrical tape, not connected to anything but the junction box.
The battery is holding a charge just fine after 2 months or so. I have not tested it for volts...I think I have a voltmeter somewhere.
I don't understand what you were trying to explain re the diagram but maybe someone else will understand if/when I get some local help.
I'm wondering if the guy I bought from went to replace the battery and the incorrect install caused the battery tender fuse to blow, so he took it off. The jacket heater was never used by him nor me, so that fuse held? Wouldn't the fuse on the battery tender protect the battery and wiring from frying, though? Or could that be the thing that fried the fuse and the wire?
Thanks again!
showkey
Super Mods
If the past owner connected the battery with reverse polarity and “played”* with the main fuse** after it blew:
That could be the explanation for the burned ground wire.
* “Played with” ……meaning installed a larger fuse, jumped the fuse witha wire etc……before he realized the error.
**This would be especially true if other unfused accessory wires were attached to the battery at the time of the polarity error.
That could be the explanation for the burned ground wire.
* “Played with” ……meaning installed a larger fuse, jumped the fuse witha wire etc……before he realized the error.
**This would be especially true if other unfused accessory wires were attached to the battery at the time of the polarity error.
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TheIronWarrior
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Hard to say, but from the photos and a look at the wire diagram, I suspect that's the ground for one of the following:
Accessory Relay/Harness
Diagnostic Connector
Radiator Fan
Turn Signal Relay
Front Signal Lights
Ignition Coil Stay (Bracket)
With the short length of wire and the location of the Junction, I'd suspect Coil Bracket Ground. I think there's a little lug on the bracket for the ground wire.
Accessory Relay/Harness
Diagnostic Connector
Radiator Fan
Turn Signal Relay
Front Signal Lights
Ignition Coil Stay (Bracket)
With the short length of wire and the location of the Junction, I'd suspect Coil Bracket Ground. I think there's a little lug on the bracket for the ground wire.
