How to read MIL code by myself?

[Markino]

Hi guys,
it happens to me that the MIL comes on ant stay on... after switch injection off and on again the MIL comes on for a sec and then off as normal and averything works fine.
I've read that I can read the MIL code with a special tool SCS Service Connector that seems to me just a wire to short the 2pins diagnostic connector... do you know if I can use justa wire or the tool has some other component inside?


Thanks!

 

[Beemerphile]

There does not appear to be any electronics in the jumper, but if you wish to try to short it, you are on your own with the results. I don't know why you would go to the bother though. The next time the MIL light stays on, instead of turning the ignition off, just stop in neutral and lower the sidestand. The MIL light should start to blink out the major code. The jumper is only needed to blink out a code in memory that is no longer active.

 

[Markino]

Just tryed and.... it works with just a simple wire!

I've got 95 error code and also the ABS led geve me 11 and 13....

 

[lootzyan]

Just tryed and.... it works with just a simple wire!

Some use paperclip with good result.

I've got 95 error code and also the ABS led geve me 11 and 13....

I have service manuals for 2012 NC700 and 2014/15 CTX700 and in both the highest number for DTC(MIL) is 87 (85 is not there either).
I assume your NC750 ABS is not "combined" type just like CTX700.
I think that your DTC readout for ABS #11 and 13 actually are 1-1 and 1-3 code.
(If you want to know how to test speed sensors, let me know)

View attachment 29099

 

[Markino]

My fault! It's 86 not 95..

 

[lootzyan]

My fault! It's 86 not 95..

DTC 86:
Meter communication malfunction
• Open or short circuit in the TXD/RXD wire
• Faulty combination meter

I think that you have very common lack of good connectors contact.
Start first with re-seating connectors to combination meter, ECM/PCM and ABS speed sensors.
Use good contact cleaner.

 

[Markino]

Thanks for response!
I've just reset all the errors code and as soon as possible I'll use a contact cleaner on the dashboard connector I suppose is the one that has generate the errors.
I'll let you know!

 

[Beemerphile]

Thanks for response!
I've just reset all the errors code and as soon as possible I'll use a contact cleaner on the dashboard connector I suppose is the one that has generate the errors.
I'll let you know!

Anytime you are chasing gremlins like this, be sure to start with clean and tight battery terminals. It all proceeds from there.

 

[Old Can Ride]

Anytime you are chasing gremlins like this, be sure to start with clean and tight battery terminals. It all proceeds from there.

Yes, I have chased the code gremlins. Turned out to be lose battery terminals. Like Beemerpile says, check battery terminals first.

 

[Markino]

Ok thanks!
So.... just tighten the terminals and use the contact spray also on them?

 

[Beemerphile]

Ok thanks!
So.... just tighten the terminals and use the contact spray also on them?

You can use contact cleaner. My favorite is Caig DeOxit. Clean it while it is disassembled. Then reconnect and tighten. If you want some extra protection, you can apply a thin film of dielectric grease after the terminal is assembled.

 

[Markino]

Okay, thanks!

 

[lootzyan]

... just tighten the terminals ...

When you diagnosing electrical problems, this is one of the first thing you do - suspect elimination procedure.
But if there were loose battery contact you should be able to notice that fairly early. You should notice difficult and hesitant ignition. Starter motor draws lot of current. Bad contact is causing current arcing which speeds up oxidation of contacts, further worsening of contact.
Applying dielectric grease on contacts (not on battery) is always good practice.
In Italy, very likely, you use your bike mostly for commuting - relatively short rides and a lot of traffic lights stops (I know how traffic in Rome looks like) It's a big strain on battery.
I'm sure you'd caught problems with battery very quickly.

Correction - don't use silicone based dielectric grease on battery contacts:
from Wikipedia:
"Silicone grease should not be applied to (or next to) any switch contact that might experience arcing, as silicone can convert to silicon-carbide under arcing conditions, and accumulation of the silicon-carbide can cause the contacts to prematurely fail. "

 

[670cc]

Hmmm. In the X-ray machine business, silicone dielectric grease has been used for a long, long time for connections to the X-ray tube or high voltage transformer. The connection typically handles up to 75,000 volts and the silicone grease insulates the live contact from ground potential. Yes, they do occasionally arc and leave carbon residue but it seems to be the insulator of choice.

 

[Beemerphile]

Applying dielectric grease on contacts (not on battery) is always good practice.

"Silicone grease should not be applied to (or next to) any switch contact that might experience arcing, as silicone can convert to silicon-carbide under arcing conditions, and accumulation of the silicon-carbide can cause the contacts to prematurely fail. "

You are contradicting yourself. There should be no arcing at the battery and dielectric grease applied after the terminals are torqued is helpful to prevent oxidation. You are incorrect in your assumption that a loose or oxidized battery terminal would always show up first as a starting issue. We have members on this forum who have experienced MIL codes from a loose battery connection without any starting issues.

You and I may eventually agree on something, but it doesn't look like today is the day.

 

[lootzyan]

... the silicone grease insulates the live contact from ground potential... ... it seems to be the insulator of choice.

That is exactly right. Use dielectric grease to insulate not to promote contact.

Quote: "(dielectric grease)It is not recommended to be applied to the actual electrical conductive contacts of the connector because it could interfere with the electrical signals passing through the connector in cases where the contact pressure is very low. Products designed as electronic connector lubricants, on the other hand, should be applied to such connector contacts and can dramatically extend their useful life. Polyphenyl Ether, rather than silicone grease, is the active ingredient in some such connector lubricants."

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicone_grease

 

[lootzyan]

...You are contradicting yourself...

You are right. I'm contradicting myself and I am wrong:
Dielectric grease should not be used on electric contacts itself but only on surrounding insulators.

I'm not looking for agreement with you or against you, but with real facts.

 

[lootzyan]

...You are incorrect in your assumption that a loose or oxidized battery terminal would always show up first as a starting issue. We have members on this forum who have experienced MIL codes from a loose battery connection without any starting issues...

Just for a sake of facts, actually this is when I have to disagree. (BTW, I didn't use word "always". That's extreme and I don't like anything extreme).
As unquestionable expert on this forum (no sarcasm) I'm really surprised that you are giving example that some here had loose battery connection and no problem with starting. This doesn't disprove common occurring that, most likely, first there would be starting problem (difficult or hesitant). People just ignore it or cannot recognize problem. In my car for over a year I know that I should apply some protective paste on lead leads of my battery.
Arcing and sparking on high current contact is extreme case and mostly invisible. More common is increase of contact resistance because of unavoidable oxidation (slower or faster) and that leads to heating up of contacts, power dissipation, drop of voltage on load side.
My cardiologist is telling me that because of my vascular disease I my have a problems when extremely physically exercising. Should I tell him/her that I know people with similar condition and they do a lot of crazy things without any problems?

 

[happy]

Sigh...I got hit by eletric gremlins last week (2nd ride this year).
I stalled (very rare) in 1st gear and she refused to restart.
I shut down ignition. Waited 10 seconds and tried again. Clicks but no turning over. Sounds like a dead battery but I just rode 15 mins on highway at 4000rpm.
Then she started on 3rd try and with good uhmmp. (Solid start)

After 2 hrs ride, this happened again when I stopped for a quick photo and she refused to start again. Same symptoms.
After 1 min, she started again.

Gotta check my battery terminals I know....
And others...
Maybe lasting 4 years is long enough for a battery from bike birth....and I don't ride in winter nor charge battery in my semi cold garage.



Sent from my LG-D955 using Tapatalk

 

[lootzyan]

...I stalled (very rare) in 1st gear and she refused to restart...

Next time when you'd have battery problem, before you try to start up your bike, as a temporary, desperate measure, try to pull off headlight connector or remove headlight fuse.
If you would have voltmeter connected to battery, when you turn on ignition you'd notice that, even battery in good condition, after couple of seconds battery voltage is dropping over 0.5 V.
Your battery already lost significant percentage of capacity (efficiency). Additional current resistance on contacts may only worsen a problem. Disconnecting headlight may help to provide more energy to ignition, get you somewhere to fix a problem.