How to improve the ground clearance on 2013 NC700X DCT?

[Afan]

I know there is a lowering link. Is there " raising" link?
I know I can get 1/4 to 12 of an inch if I buy "taller" tires, e.g instead 120/70-17, 160/60-17 I buy 120/80 and/or 160/70?
I wish I can install 19" wheel, but, according to several posts, not the best/smart/easy/low cost option (specially for DCT version).

Thoughts?

 

[TacomaJD]

I would not suggest buying taller (or shorter) tires on a DCT model. This may cause adverse effects in how the DCT shifts. It monitors parameters to know when to shift. This is why people can't change sprocket gearing on DCT models....a taller tire is essentially the same as changing sprocket gearings, it offsets the gear ratio from stock and confuses the DCT computer.

Crank up the preload on the rear shock to the max, this will give a bit more ground clearance and make it ride slightly stiffer so as not to bottom quickly. If your forks are mounted in the triple clamps to where any is left above the top clamp, then you can slip the forks down to where the fork cap is flush with the top clamp, but there is likely little room for gain here.

Other than that, install a bash plate (skid plate), and pick better lines while offroad to avoid casing out on obstacles. Or sell and buy an Africa Twin.

 

[Afan]

Duplicate post.

What do you mean duplicate post? Somebody already posted something like this? I apologize, didn't see it.

 

[670cc]

What do you mean duplicate post? Somebody already posted something like this? I apologize, didn't see it.

I think TJD accidentally posted twice, and with this forum software you can’t totally delete your post, so possibly he just edited it to show it was a duplicate of his following post.

 

[Afan]

I would not suggest buying taller (or shorter) tires on a DCT model. This may cause adverse effects in how the DCT shifts. It monitors parameters to know when to shift. This is why people can't change sprocket gearing on DCT models....a taller tire is essentially the same as changing sprocket gearings, it offsets the gear ratio from stock and confuses the DCT computer.

It does make a sense. Thanks.

Crank up the preload on the rear shock to the max, this will give a bit more ground clearance and make it ride slightly stiffer so as not to bottom quickly. If your forks are mounted in the triple clamps to where any is left above the top clamp, then you can slip the forks down to where the fork cap is flush with the top clamp, but there is likely little room for gain here.

I have no idea what are you talking about...
Let me study a bit this.

Other than that, install a bash plate (skid plate), and pick better lines while offroad to avoid casing out on obstacles. Or sell and buy an Africa Twin.

On one hand, I wish I can buy AT.
On the other hand, I like NC, low rev, low CG, easy to ride at low speeds, frunk... Nah... I'll stick with my NC

Thanks.

 

[Deleted member 5383]

I have no idea what are you talking about...
Let me study a bit this.

Motorcycle Rear Shock Adjustment | Cogent Dynamics | Motorcycle Suspension

Cogent Dynamics rear shocks are custom built for each customer and are delivered with settings which are excellent for most circumstances yet are designed with flexible adjustability.

www.motocd.com

Note that it helps if not to have a better shock with more adjustment, to at least have a spring that is proper for your weight.

 

[Afan]

Motorcycle Rear Shock Adjustment | Cogent Dynamics | Motorcycle Suspension

Cogent Dynamics rear shocks are custom built for each customer and are delivered with settings which are excellent for most circumstances yet are designed with flexible adjustability.

www.motocd.com

Note that it helps if not to have a better shock with more adjustment, to at least have a spring that is proper for your weight.

Thanks.

 

[Deleted member 5383]

I think TJD accidentally posted twice, and with this forum software you can’t totally delete your post, so possibly he just edited it to show it was a duplicate of his following post.

That must be a phone thing. From the desktop you can delete, at least within a timeframe.

 

[TacomaJD]

I think TJD accidentally posted twice, and with this forum software you can’t totally delete your post, so possibly he just edited it to show it was a duplicate of his following post.

Correct, actually it glitched and only posted half of what I typed for some reason (I'm on my work pc). I went in and tried to edit it and if I added a single character past what was in it, it wouldn't let me save it. I've never seen that in all of my forum whoring days. So I just copied and finished the message in a new post, edited the first one to say duplicate since I couldn't delete.

EDIT: OH SNAP! I just saw the option to delete on desktop site, I've never been on a forum where you could totally delete your post, and I have been on MANY forums over the years. I'm about to try it! LOL.

 

[kebrider]

Lust Racing in Europe... http://www.lustracing.co.uk/suspension/honda-nc700x-jackup-kits.html

 

[kebrider]

I did not mention above that I had already ordered a "Jack-up Kit" from Lust Racing for my 2019 NC750X. I installed it and tested it this past weekend, doing just a 50 mile ride through some technical East TN hill country. First the numbers, seat height was raised just over 3/4" as advertised so I re-positioned the front forks to their original position in the triple clamps. I have owned 2 NC's and the first thing I do is drop the front end around 7MM to quicken the steering (reduced rake/trail). Raising the rear 80MM results in a dramatic reduction in trail so being able to raise the front back up and reclaiming ground clearance while still enjoying quick steering seems like a win win on paper.

The 50 mile loop proved the steering is another level of lightness and quickness with no detectable loss in stability and predictability. I am running Continental Road Attack 3s which are very quick and light to turn in so I suspect I may have one of the most agile combinations possible on the NC. The sharpness on turn in is truly sport bike quick. Stock the low slung and long NC is an easy turner but it is just a bit lazy and it has a touch of understeer when the pace quickens. That's gone.

I am mindful of the NC's long wheelbase potential for not playing well with the revised geometry of steeper rake and shorter trail so it will take time and require more research riding (leaning, braking and rough/wet roads) in the Deals Gap area to see if there is any downside to this modification.

KEB

 

[kebrider]

320 miles yesterday riding primarily technical mountain roads and my initial impression of the Lust Racing Raising Links is they are magic. Ground clearance no longer a problem, no peg, stand or exhaust touchdown and in return impeccable stability with light turn-in and precise steering. I tested everything I need to survive mountain riding. Trail braking hard from speed into a 15 mph corner and braking all the way through tight decreasing radius turns. The grip never faltered and the bike would tighten or widen its line without absolutely no complaint. It was eerily competent at everything.

I had not ridden for 4 months but usually I ride an average of 30K miles per year so I don;t know if I was rusty or something is different in the bike feel but I felt as if I was braking going into turns more than normal. I suspect I am just a bit rusty and the fact I can't get of the seat right now may just be affecting my riding style. Bottom line is the bike feels safer and more planted than it did bone stock, partially due to the Continental Road Attack 3's.

The final setup was forks 1mm above top triple clamp and rear shock preload backed off to only light pressure (I need to measure the threads above the lock rings but it's not too many). The bike leans a bit more on the kickstand but the low COG NC doesn't have a problem and the centerstand deploys more easily and allows room to spin the rear tire, which it did not with the shock preload I was was initially running. The ride seems mostly unaffected.

My personal opinion is the Lust Racing Jack-Up Kit is the best mode I have ever done to an NC.

 

[670cc]

320 miles yesterday riding primarily technical mountain roads and my initial impression of the Lust Racing Raising Links is they are magic. Ground clearance no longer a problem, no peg, stand or exhaust touchdown and in return impeccable stability with light turn-in and precise steering. I tested everything I need to survive mountain riding. Trail braking hard from speed into a 15 mph corner and braking all the way through tight decreasing radius turns. The grip never faltered and the bike would tighten or widen its line without absolutely no complaint. It was eerily competent at everything.

I had not ridden for 4 months but usually I ride an average of 30K miles per year so I don;t know if I was rusty or something is different in the bike feel but I felt as if I was braking going into turns more than normal. I suspect I am just a bit rusty and the fact I can't get of the seat right now may just be affecting my riding style. Bottom line is the bike feels safer and more planted than it did bone stock, partially due to the Continental Road Attack 3's.

The final setup was forks 1mm above top triple clamp and rear shock preload backed off to only light pressure (I need to measure the threads above the lock rings but it's not too many). The bike leans a bit more on the kickstand but the low COG NC doesn't have a problem and the centerstand deploys more easily and allows room to spin the rear tire, which it did not with the shock preload I was was initially running. The ride seems mostly unaffected.

My personal opinion is the Lust Racing Jack-Up Kit is the best mode I have ever done to an NC.

Just so I understand what you did, you used replacement links to raise the rear end, but you also backed off the adjuster ring on the shock to lower the rear end? Is this a stock spring/shock? Is the net result that the rear is still raised slightly? What are the sag numbers after the mod?

 

[GregC]

I gained a bit more clearance when I installed my Ohlins rear shock with weight-correct spring. I didn't measure the difference because I wasn't looking for more clearance, just better ride, but with the stock spring cranked down, just dangling my legs I would completely flatfoot the bike -- after the Ohlins, my heels were up just a bit (maybe 3/4"). Can still flatfoot the bike, but have to be conscious of it.

 

[kebrider]

Just so I understand what you did, you used replacement links to raise the rear end, but you also backed off the adjuster ring on the shock to lower the rear end? Is this a stock spring/shock? Is the net result that the rear is still raised slightly? What are the sag numbers after the mod?

When I bought the NC the first 2 changes I made were lowering the front (5 to 7mm, forgot to document) and adding spring preload to the rear shock. This was done strictly to speed and lighten turn-in and steering. After these initial changes my rear sag was a bit high (again no documentation) but not way off from my target (1.8" or so). After installing the shorter raising links bike was just over .75 inches taller but the sag was only 1.4" (I assume due to the revised linkage's leverage ratio). At this point the rear sag was lower than desired and the bike was flighty and slightly unstable. I backed out all of the spring preload using the lock rings' pressure as a guide (bike on centerstand) and took it for a ride to make sure the steering stabilized and once that was established I measured sag at 1.75". The bike has a firm but reasonably supple ride for OEM suspension.

I am planning to replace the suspension soon so my main goal was to make the bike safe while improving the handling dynamics. Mission accomplished.

KEB