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Honda SCS Service Connector

All I can say is that the MIL system does not know if you even have a horn. I am not sure what "performing e-brakes" is, but the code you are getting is for communication with the meter.



Thank, guess it will be hard for me to troubleshoot since I do not have the hds
 
You don't need the HDS. The only thing the HDS will do that the jumper (SCS Service Connector) will not do is read the detail codes. However, code 86 does not have any detail codes, there is only 86-1 which is communication failure. In fact almost all of the codes only have one or two sub-codes. Is your bike out of warranty? If not, let the dealer sort it out. If it is out of warranty, then the troubleshooting sequence for the code is given in the service manual.
 
Hi Beemerphile,

My error is only a past error.. once i off the bike and on the bike the mil is gone. I am trying see circuit or connector link to the horn. Because i am suspecting the aftermarket horn as the culprit.

The mil happened to me 3 times.. when i was performing e-brakes and blasting the horn...

The question that comes to mind is: Just how and in what circuit did you wire the aftermarket horn? It is just paralleled off the stock horn? Did you tap it into a different power source? Does it have dedicated wiring, relay, and fuse straight from the battery? Perhaps the horn is causing voltage drop on a circuit that wasn't meant to support that load.

Greg
 
All I can say is that the MIL system does not know if you even have a horn. I am not sure what "performing e-brakes" is, but the code you are getting is for communication with the meter.



Rewired the horn. Cleaned the meter connector.. Let see how is it..
 
You don't need the HDS. The only thing the HDS will do that the jumper (SCS Service Connector) will not do is read the detail codes. However, code 86 does not have any detail codes, there is only 86-1 which is communication failure. In fact almost all of the codes only have one or two sub-codes. Is your bike out of warranty? If not, let the dealer sort it out. If it is out of warranty, then the troubleshooting sequence for the code is given in the service manual.


Bike still under warranty. But don't trust my local agent and do not want to leave my bike.
 
Hi beemerphile, just a check does a troubleshoot helps? Because if my mil stays on I guess I can trouble shoot the problem. But if the mil turn off when I restart my bike, which the mil will be gone, in another words they error is no longer there, I doubt I will be able to trouble shoots.
 
Hi beemerphile, just a check does a troubleshoot helps? Because if my mil stays on I guess I can trouble shoot the problem. But if the mil turn off when I restart my bike, which the mil will be gone, in another words they error is no longer there, I doubt I will be able to trouble shoots.

The error code will still be in memory. To see an error code in memory, you need the SCS service connector. If the MIL light is still on, you can get it to flash the code by stopping in neutral with the engine running and lowering the sidestand. You obviously know this because you have accessed a current code in your video. Without the SCS service connector you would have to wait for the code to become current again by lighting the MIL light. Check the code before you turn the engine off.
 
The error code will still be in memory. To see an error code in memory, you need the SCS service connector. If the MIL light is still on, you can get it to flash the code by stopping in neutral with the engine running and lowering the sidestand. You obviously know this because you have accessed a current code in your video. Without the SCS service connector you would have to wait for the code to become current again by lighting the MIL light. Check the code before you turn the engine off.

Hi Beemerphile, just to clarify. If there is a current code, mean there is a error. When you restart the bike if the mil is gone, which mean the code will become past code. What I'm trying go say is, it's easier easier to troubleshoot a current code. Whereas for past code, there is no error at the moment. Which mean you troubleshoot, there won't be any findings because the bike is working fine. Is my understanding correct?
 
It's short, past code is equivalent to past error. That is for my case which the error happen on a spilt second and when back to normal. I believe it's should be a short circuit or a open circuit happen in the meter communication for a spilt second. Hence when I restart my bike, the error is no longer there.
 
If there is a malfunction covered by the system, the MIL will light and remain lighted until the engine is stopped. If the malfunction is not there when you restart the bike, the MIL will not be on but the error code will be stored in memory. You can read a current code (MIL light is "on") without the SCS connector. If the MIL is "off" then you need the SCS connector in ordr to read the code from memory. As far as troubleshooting, an intermittant problem may not be persistent even though the MIL is still on so it is not necessarily any easier to troubleshoot. However, if the MIL comes back on when you restart the bike, then the problem is persistent and more easily diagnosed. The service manual gives a troublshooting procedure for every code.
 
bloody elly its beyond me ..think I'll just stick to making a piece's of bent tubing and leave the rest to those in the know.;)
 
Has anybody managed to read any data from the K-line? I have a Scantool MX connected via a DIY harness to the 12V, GND and K-line of the DLC, hoping to read data like coolant temperature (which our meter does not show but we do have an ECT), long-term fuel trim, etc. Have tried using OBDLink and Torque but they are reporting it's not OBD2 compliant. No issues with Bluetooth pairing or device and works fine with my car.
 
Finally got some readings :cheer:

But values look a bit out

1636166B-8EAC-49DD-B903-66D47EE0F439-1466-000000291663616B.jpg
 
I read the code as 86 (eight long followed by six short). There is no 9-5. The 86 code is a meter communication malfunction. The manual calls out either a open or short circuit in the TXD / RXD line or a faulty combination meter. It suggests to check for a loose connection of either the 16-pin or 33-pin connector and try again. After that are some check of the serial line for continuity and a couple of voltage level checks. Let me know if you want to diagnose it further. If you are taking it to te dealer, then you already know enough to talk with them about it.

I currently have the '86' code on my bike. The original battery finally failed (11.94 volts/ 0 cca) and can you believe the replacement Yuasa battery YTZ12S battery from my local mc parts store also was a no-go from the get go (12.8 volts/ 0 cca).

Anyways, after jump starting the bike with a portable Li-Ion booster pack the 'check engine light' or MIL came on and flashed the 86 code.

Kinda suspect a voltage issue that occurred when trying to start the bike with a 0 cca battery. I work on modern automobiles, and the various control units really don't like a low voltage situation. Fault codes will be stored in just about all the control modules regarding a low voltage.

Going to purchase the SCS service connector so I can read and erase fault codes now in the future.
 
FWIW, I just read from the 2016-2017 service manual that the PGM-FI system changed from the earlier bikes, and it's no longer possible to read the DTS codes via the MIL "...unless the SCS circuit is shorted with the special tool".

View attachment 47776
That is good information and explains why some owners couldn't read the fault code with the sidestand trick.
 
It's frustrating that Honda made it harder to access the codes! :mad::mad::mad:
Reducing service convenience and information is a disturbing trend with Honda. The 2021 owner's manual left out some service task directions like chain adjustment and wheel removal/installation along with important torque specs. Honda's typical recommendation nowadays is to go see your dealer.
 
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Reducing service convenience and information is a disturbing trend with Honda. The 2021 owner's manual left out some service task directions like chain adjustment and wheel removal/installation along with important torque specs. Honda's typical recommendation nowadays is to go see your dealer.
It's not just Honda.

BMW quit selling official service manuals to private individuals. They go tired of being sued by idiots that injure themselves or ruin an expensive piece of their machine doing common service tasks. Blame the idiot, the lawyers, or the manufacturer?
 
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It's not just Honda but I know you like bashing them for what-have-you.
That’s a strange, personal comment.

We have 10 Honda machines around the house. I like and buy some of their products but it doesn’t mean I can’t mention aspects of them I don’t like.
 
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