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Handlebar risers

Canbo

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Sorry for yet another "handlebar riser" question but I've searched the threads to no end. I have a pair of Rox 2" risers I want to install on my 2018 NC750X. The Service Manual for this bike is not available yet so I have no idea how to open up the front end to get at the brake, clutch and throttle wires. Some or all of these have to be re-routed or replaced with longer ones. Your advice would greatly appreciated.

Bob
 
I can't believe the service manual is not available since we're 10 months into the calendar year. Did you try Helm Inc in Detroit? They handle all the printed material for Honda plus do the same for many other manufacturers.

ps. many dealers are reluctant to sell service manuals because they believe it will take work from their shop. And don't bother with a off-brand, non-Honda produced service manual because some of those can be pretty bad.
 
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Speaking of which, what is the max rise without messing around with the wires and cable?

Known to be two inches max rise on a manual NC. You can fiddle with the brake hose anchor on the lower triple clamp to get some slack. The cluch cable and electrical wiring can be made to work without rerouting. I have a custom length brake hose on my manual NC, and the clutch cable is 4 inches longer because the cable came from a CTX. But if I want more than 2 inches rise, I'll need to make extensions for the wiring harness.

I'm not sure on a DCT NC what the maximum rise is, because you have a different brake hose layout with the ABS, and while you don't have a clutch cable to deal with, you have a parking brake cable.
 
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670cc, OK, thanks I should have been more specific. Anyone know the max rise on a '18 NC750 DCT, without replacing cables? I don't think I need two inches for comfort.
 
The Canadian manual transmission NC700x has the same brakes as the American DCT model. I had to loosen some anchor points but did not have to re-route anything with a 2" Rox riser. I would not be able to go any higher without replacing or re-routing the brake hose.

Have you tried just rotating the bars? It makes more difference than you would think.
 
Yup. That's the one I'm wondering about. Hoping there's a way to slacken the parking brake cable since I never use it.
 
I wasn't able to find any more slack in the 2018 DCT's parking brake cable. I wound up re-routing the cable to run behind the head stock rather than in front and that seems to be working OK for the last few days.
 
I had my DCT parking brake cable lengthened maybe 3". The shop pulled the old wire out, cut the sheathing in the middle and added an adjuster to gain some length and then shrink wrapped over the adjuster (it will never be adjusted, just to add length). Its kind of a pain to pull the cable out. And now 18 months later I am pulling it out again to get a new wire put in it. It sat for a few months and the wire cable rusted and broke! Going to have them grease it up good this time.
 
I just got my 18 DCT a few weeks ago and put the SW Motech 25mm risers on. The cables are tight, but nothing had to be re-routed.

Ride safe,
Pikester

I am looking at risers for mine, the only problem area I found was the master cylinder line would get pretty tight. Not sure how I'm feeling about that. Maybe you found some more slack in yours?
 
Motion Pro makes excellent control cables and they already have most (all?) samples in their shop so sending in your old cable is not necessary. At least it wasn't when I ordered extended cables for my NT700V and the price was $40 each but you end up with something that looks "stock" and works just as well. They have all the proper ends and I opted for the black sheathing so it still has that factory look.

On my NC700XD, I opted for bars from a Buell Blast (of all things!) because it gave me the rise and pullback I wanted. I cut the ends to make bar width what I wanted and that that meant drilling new holes for the locating pins on the handlebar controls. I have a DCT bike and the emergency brake cable is extremely stiff so not as easy to reroute as the throttle cables.

At least to my old back, the standard NC700 bars remind me of mountain bike handlebars - flat, wide, and straight. :-(
 
How did you re-route that cable? Did you do it from the handle bar end or from the rear brake end?
 
I wasn't able to find any more slack in the 2018 DCT's parking brake cable. I wound up re-routing the cable to run behind the head stock rather than in front and that seems to be working OK for the last few days.

How did you re-route that cable? Did you do it from the handle bar end or from the rear brake end?
 
How did you re-route that cable? Did you do it from the handle bar end or from the rear brake end?

I rerouted at the handle bar end but first had to disconnect the cable connection at the brake end to get enough slack to be able free the cable connection at the handle bar end.
 
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