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Go West Old Man....A ride report

Go West Old Man - Day 7

Day 7

Firsts: Buffalo
Theme: Western Grandure
Destination: Page, Arizona to Cedar City, Utah
Miles: 410

I was up and out early again on this fine morning in order to arrive at Vermillion Cliffs to see the early light play on the cliff face. First, a stop was scheduled to visit an overlook at a beautiful bend in the river, just outside of town. I’m there in just a few minutes. Parking is good, but from there I look up at a long, sandy trail. Remember, motorcycle boots are NOT made for walking. (sorry Nancy) At the top of the hill I see that I have a ways to go. Out on the canyon rim are little moving dots, like ants, but they are fellow travelers. I turn and head back the way I came.

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The Vermillion Cliffs really are beautiful and the approach frames them perfectly. The canyon cut by the Colorado river is just a crack in the valley floor and provides and action line for the composition.

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Look for the people along the canyon rim
.

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Ancient peoples built shelters under borders.


The surprise of the day was the Dixie National Forest. After a 50 mile jaunt across a flat valley floor, the road starts to wind upwards and small trees appear. Eventually, the hill is crested and I am surrounded by the smell of evergreens. Quite the pleasant ride. In fact, it is so pleasant that the turn to the Grand Canyon is missed entirely and I don’t realize my error until a map check in Fredonia. That is a thirty mile miss. The bike is swung around and back into the forest I go. Not a terrible thing to do.

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The road to the north rim is about 45 miles after the turn and I had no idea what to expect. The terrain tends to be flat or slightly rolling with forest, meadow and burned out forest providing the scenery. Another pleasant surprise on this section was a herd of Buffalo. There were so many vehicles on the side of the road, that I rolled on, but did manage to snap some pics on the way back.

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The Grand Canyon, like many of the western sites, is just not describable and is difficult for my small mind to even comprehend. As you gaze out into the chasm, it just doesn’t seem real. I took pics anyway.

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After dropping down from the Dixie NF, Route 89 follows desert floor, and goes through a couple of small towns on the way to the West entrance of Zion. Nothing of note to report except for arriving at a McDonalds just after a busload of Chinese tourists. Tourist buses were prevalent on this day. They packed the road (and attractions) at Zion.

Zion is another of those places that you just have to see for yourself. I rode through, did a U-turn and rode back through. Although, hot, crowded and slow, it was worth the effort. I would love to go in the spring before the tourists arrive. (And what am I?)

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There are several tunnels in Zion. One of them is quite long and has an occasional window in the concrete. I couldn’t stop for photos and the GoPro couldn’t adjust aperture quick enough, but they would make some cool photos.


One of the tunnels was reduced to one lane for a time. As I sat in waiting traffic, a women running towards me appeared in my mirror. Then the cars ahead started to move. The woman was the Australian I met the night before, Penny. I told her I would pull off after the tunnel. I enjoyed talking with them and hope they had a wonderful visit to the US.

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Penny and Dennis from Australia

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After Zion, I motored up Hwy 89 a few more miles and picked up a Utah Scenic Byway, Hwy 14 to head over to Cedar City, where a Days Inn awaited. This was a pleasant surprise. Once again, I was lifted up over 9000 feet, where the air is cool. The surrounding forest soothed my fried brain. This area appears to be an ATV mecca. There is a little crossroads town in the middle of this forest and an ATV dealer and a few shops are the only visible job
sources.

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Cedar City was like any small town, but it supplied one amusing moment. In front of a motel was a man holding up a neon poster board with the simple message, BED BUGS. I bet that wasn’t good for business.

I had another stellar ride, but was really looking forward to Bryce Canyon, my early goal for Day 8.
 
A little video to go with Day 7

[video=youtube;6U3_AxbihUw]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6U3_AxbihUw[/video]
 
Great ride report and excellent videos. I especially enjoyed the pictures and video of the Grand Canyon and Zion. Brought back memories of my first long motorcycle trip and now you got me thinking about a late September ride out west.
 
Great storytelling. The pictures are great too. I recently did a week long trip and i take my ipad (which has a cellular connection) wherever I go as well. It's what I used each night to track weather, routes, etc on my ride. It's nice to have a large screen as well. I haven't ridden as far as you did in one trip but I hope to someday.
 
I smart device is so useful on the road. I did find that many of the motel Wifi connections left something to be desired.

Well, this trip was the closest I'll get to my bucket list. I actually planned 21 days, but moved much faster than I thought. I decided to skip Arkansas because of heat and storms. I can get back there another day. I imagine if I ever get to ride the west coast, it will be a fly and ride.
 
Great trip and report. Since I have lived out west my whole life and been to most of the places you went to out west many times. I think I take them in without much thought. Where I haven't been is out east. Sounds like I need to do a trip in the opposite direction. I just don't know when the best time of year to head that way to miss tornadoes, hurricanes, high humidity and have mild weather. Out west we only consider weather.
 
late September and early October seems to be good everywhere...unless we have a hurricane. October is usually dry...but not always. I ride year round....in this neck of the woods, most winter days are in the 50's.
New England is another story.
Good twisty riding in West Virginia/Virginia/Kentucky/Tennessee/NC/Georgia. Butler maps has just put out a map for the southern Appalachians.
 
late September and early October seems to be good everywhere...unless we have a hurricane. October is usually dry...but not always. I ride year round....in this neck of the woods, most winter days are in the 50's.
New England is another story.
Good twisty riding in West Virginia/Virginia/Kentucky/Tennessee/NC/Georgia. Butler maps has just put out a map for the southern Appalachians.

That is the time of year that is best for southern Utah as well. Moab is usually low eighties. There is always a chance of rain storms from June through the first snow. today it was suppose to be in the 90s here and the ride we planned for today changed with the storms that rolled through this morning to the south. We got to ride I some very gusty winds heading south but once turn back north it was very nice.

We need to plan a trip to Georgia and that time of year sounds like a good time.

Thanks
 
Day 8....Bryce Canyon

[video=youtube_share;eFOv9ekDP8Q]https://youtu.be/eFOv9ekDP8Q[/video]
 
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Day 8

Firsts: Hoodoos
Theme: Enough Bloody Canyons
Destination: Cedar City, Utah to Blanding, Utah
Miles: 414


The early sun was filtering into the canyon as I climbed back up to Cedar Breaks. The twisty climb and cool air was an excellent wake up for this early riser. Despite running this route the previous afternoon, I was delighted by the sights nature was providing. Cool Aspen forests, tight, rocky canyons and cool mountain meadows provided fodder for my camera. I again spied the unique rock formations popping up in the middle of the Aspen groves. I imagined a large truck tipping the black boulders amongst the trees. Having researched these formations the previous night, I knew that they were recent (1-5000 years old) volcanic “seepage”. Fissures opened and these black boulders were the result. I saw little piles of these renderings in the trees, by a lake and covering entire hillsides.

I surprised a few deer, but they were kind enough to not jump in front of me. I've found that the deer in the road is a hazard of early morning riding.

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After a pleasant time in the forest, I rejoined highway 89 for the quick jaunt to Bryce Canyon. The entry gates were not manned upon my arrival, so I breezed into the park without having to show my “Old Man” National Park Pass. ($10 at most Federal offices) Crowds gathered at various bus stops along the road, waiting to be transported to the various overlooks. The motor carriages weren’t running yet, so it was very lonely at those overlooks. Yes!

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Bryce Canyon is another of those amazing places. The road through the park is pleasant in itself, but the scenes from the overlooks...wowza! The shapes resembled volcanic droppings, but were actually formed by erosion. Those shapes or “hoodoos” reminded me of the terracotta army in the Chinese tomb. I can also see how native peoples would see this area as a spiritual place.

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My route was retraced after the photo orgy and off to Escalante I trod. A restaurant in Henrieville called my name so it was a fine breakfast for lunch for me.

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Satiated, I rolled on towards the “Grand Staircase” of Escalante. The Staircase is a series of ridges which culminate with the road following the top of a narrow ridgeline, serious drops to the left and the right. Quite invigorating.


I passed by a road, the Burr Trail, which a group of BMW riders had encouraged me to ride. The Butler Map rated it as a “best” road, but it looked very lonely on the map. Sitting at home, I wish I’d taken that road, but at the time, I did not know how the remainder of the day would go or whether I would be able to find shelter as my poor body pooped out.

I was surprised to climb again into the Dixie National Forest. It provided relief from both the heat and the prevalent color scheme.

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Highway 24 intersects highway 12 at Torrey, so I turned east into Capitol Reef National Park. This route follows a seemingly endless red cliff. It eventually turns into a canyon, with a small stream that paints the base of the canyon green. I was surprised to ride through a narrow, but long orchard in that canyon. I should have checked the map. The little area is called...Fruita.

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The canyon spat me out onto the surface of the moon. The stretch into Hanksville is gray. Gray hills, gray fields, piles of gray...everything was gray. I found it quite depressing.

Nayati needed feeding, so I pulled into the first service station in Hanksville. It was midday and no one was about. The place seemed open, but it was locked. The Pepsi delivery guy was there and could not find anyone to accept his sodas. I moved on, hoping this was not a one horse town. I did find a second fueling stop before exiting onto a flat plain.

It was hot while crossing the plain. Predictions were for temps close to a 100. Sure felt like the predictions were true. I looked in envy to the cool peaks on my right, Mt. Ellen (11,522 ft.), Mt. Pennell (11,371 ft.), and Mt. Hillers (10,723 ft.)

The road began to descend and the scenery turned red as I pulled even with those peaks. I was entering the Glen Canyon Recreation area. Butler Maps also had this as a “Gold” road, but I was hot, tired, and had seen enough red canyons to really appreciate this section. I did however, enjoy the sweeping turns.

After Glen Canyon, it was an uneventful ride into Blanding, Utah. I found a motel and was settled in by 3 P.M. I’m glad I got there early, the place was filling up fast. I just wish I had that time to ride that road I had passed.

Interesting talking with the fellow at the desk. He had lived many years just down the road from my home. He was not the talkative type, so I didn’t discover why he had moved to this sun blanched place.
 
Day 9

Firsts: Man eating midges
Theme: Mars Landing
Destination: Blanding Utah to Moab Utah
Miles: 314

I left the sparseness of Blanding at sunrise and enjoyed the lonely road towards Monticello. The sun silhouetted the hills to the east and at one point, a solitary horse feeding on the ridgeline. That was a photo that I hate I missed.

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In Monticello, I turned onto Hart’s Draw Road leading to the Indian Creek Scenic Byway, through the Abajo mountains and into Canyonlands National Park. I had not expected to be “in” Canyonlands, but the road curved through the canyons, with the bluffs, buttes and cliffs forming the horizon. This was a beautiful ride and included “Newspaper” rock. This is a large painting by ancient native americans on a flat rock face.

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I doubled back to Hwy. 191 and rode north to the next park entrance, the “Needles”. At the end of this road was a true overlook and it was spectacular. Located at a midpoint in the park, the “Needles overlook provides views to the north and south.

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Doubling back to Hwy 191 a second time, I continued north. I glanced at my gas gauge and noticed with a start that I was in reserve. The gauge also had already counted down 20% of the remaining reserve. The distance to Moab was pretty close to the estimated remaining fuel’s capability, so I went into conservative rider mode. Strapped to the back of the bike was a Rotopax tank carrying an extra gallon of regular, so I really had no worries. I was more upset by the surprise of my fuel situation.

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Moab was attained with no problems and the fuel situation alleviated. I passed on through Moab headed to the North Entrance to the park. A fork in that road takes you to Dead Horse State Park. This park derives its name from a terrible incident in its history. Cowboys rounded up the wild horses in the area and corralled them at the end of the mesa, overlooking the Colorado river. The cowboys took the horses that they wanted and left the rest to die of thirst on this peninsula of land.

The view from Dead Horse is spectacular, although some small midges will eat you alive if you tarry too long. I took a few pics and moved on to Grand View Point.

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This location is spectacular. Once again, I have no words. Below the cliffs, the White Cliff trail is visible. This is a popular route for the off-road crowd. I bet it is amazing to ride, but caution is needed. It is 100 miles of isolation. The midges attacked again and chased me back onto Nayati.

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Turning again, I and headed back to Moab. An overpriced motel was booked and I settled into a freshly cleaned room by 1:30. The toothless women running the main desk chatted with me while I waited for my room to be readied. She was surprised that I had not been afraid to ride through Canyon of the Ancients and Bluff. She said she never went down there herself, that it was dangerous. I didn’t sense any threats when I was there, so I’m not sure why she had that fear. Maybe it’s a difference in outlooks to the world.

I’d hoped for a nice dinner within walking distance, but the two diners across the street closed at 2:00, so that left a Wendy’s. The girl that waited on me was Chinese and didn’t have a strong command of the language or the workings of a modern cash register. I wondered if she were a student who was working here for the summer. Many resort towns bring in kids from overseas to do work/study programs in the summer. From what I’ve seen, the employers take advantage of the kids and they see little of America. I hope she is able to venture out of the Mars scape of Moab.

The temperature reached 101 that afternoon and the direct sun shining on the window curtains in my room kept me at bay until sunset. It was a good day, I got a little rest, but the next day would see me escape Mars and head for some green.

A little video from the day.

I8i-qpb3MHw
 
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Day 10

Firsts: Down Rider
Theme: Red to Green
Destination: Moab, Utah to Gunnison, Co.
Miles: 410


I packed and was in Arches National Park by 6:30. This park was another scenic wonder. The road snakes through the park with many opportunities to walk into the individual sites. I tried one or two, but hiking in motorcycle gear at my age and condition was not in the cards. I took many photos and enjoyed the silhouette shots as the sun rose.

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At one of the arches, a drone was buzzing about. That really chapped my butt. It was calm and peaceful except for that damned drone. Wish I had a Hellfire missile.

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I left arches and headed south. There were thunderstorms predicted for the Colorado mountains and that was where I was headed. I had originally planned to ride a big loop out of Aches that included highway 128 along the Colorado river. I skipped that and headed south for the LaSal mountains and a shorter route back to the big mountains.

The road back to Colorado provided a break from the red Utah landscape with a green view. The road was entertaining, the altitude high enough to cool this rider and the destination was glorious. The route descended into a little valley with a road straight as an arrow towards Naturita, Colorado. This was a much more interesting route than I expected. I passed through several small burgs and river valleys that were quite scenic.

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I eventually picked up Colorado 145 and retraced part of my Day 5 route over the mountains to Ridgeway, Colorado. I stopped for a stretch and saw a group of about 20 female riders on Harley’s and Indians. I think they were part of a tour group. They had no luggage and a man seemed to be leading the group.

I headed north into Montrose. Again, uneventful. While maneuvering through the town I was passed by a fellow on a sport bike. He seemed way too tall for that motorcycle. I was to see him again later in the day.

Heading out of Montrose I traveled on a well groomed highway 60 through some rolling landscape. As that road dropped down towards the Gunnison River it narrowed, starting twisting a little and the traffic began to thicken. I ended up behind that sportbike I had seen in Montrose. I decided to cover his six and stick with him for awhile. As we were descending a steep decline he wavered over towards the shoulder and suddenly went down. I guess he lost concentration and panicked a little, stabbed the brakes and the front end washed out. He was lucky in that the bike was teetering on top of a 15 foot embankment. I stopped and helped lift the bike. He went to the front and started pushing back up the hill. I’m glad he was strong because all I could do was brace the bike and keep it from sliding down the hill. As I strained against the motorcycle I noticed a Purple Heart medal pinned to the rear of his seat. I assume it was his. I stayed with him until he got it started and rode on. I turned across the river at the bottom of that hill and crossed the dam leading to Black Canyon Road.

The Black Canyon of the Gunnison is the steepest, narrowest, craggiest canyon I’ve ever seen. It looks like the earth just cracked. Black Canyon Road runs along the northern lip of that canyon. It is so steep, that it is difficult to see the canyon from the road, and there are precious few safe places to pull over. I fell in synch with two other riders and followed them through the canyon. After about 20 miles of hard riding, we pulled into an overlook. The duo was a father and son. The dad had ridden up from Florida on his Kawasaki and junior had ridden his Triumph Speed Triple from his home in Boulder.

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I left them at the overlook and headed north. My plan was to find route 12 into Crested Butte. Twelve is a gravel road that crosses Kebler pass. It is supposed to be a beautiful trip. After 50 miles I stopped for gas. While having a Choco Taco I asked the proprietor about highway 12. Apparently, it was closed due to landslides. I had to turn around and retrace my path through the Black Canyon. I was actually getting a little tired by this point, so I welcomed the easy ride after the twist fest. There was some construction along 50, so the going was slow. I rode through Gunnison and stopped at a Comfort Inn. I asked my usual question about places to eat. I was directed to the gas station across the street. It served craft beer and supposedly the best hamburger in Gunnison. Well….I’ve never had a better one.

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and...a little video

https://youtu.be/Aq5oDf-KMMQ
 
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Great ride Report drdubb ! I was there in 2014 and at the end of the trip, I feeled like I could die with no regrets and the only regret I really had was going back in the north ;)

Thank you for all the time you take to share and edit tohses pics and vids !
 
Day 11

Firsts: Snow shoes
Theme: I passed
Destination: Gunnison, Co to Silverthorne Co
Miles : 310

Holy cow! It is amazing the difference a few miles makes. I woke up to 48 degrees after enduring triple digit heat the day before in Moab. I wisely put on my Smartwool Long undies and my heated jacket before mounting Nayati. I also added glove liners and switched on my heated grips. Today’s ride would include two high passes where I could expect the temperature to drop from its current state. Gunnison was quiet at 6:30 as I exited the town and started the steady climb to Monarch Pass. The countryside was green and pleasant. While the dry, red, broken landscape of Utah was impressive, I much preferred the green valleys and granite gray outcroppings of Colorado. Much more soothing.

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Highway 50 is smooth and wide up the pass and I quickly reached the apex and the Monarch Pass Restaurant. It was closed, but the manager arrived as I milled about taking photographs. The young cook managed to produce a hot cup of coffee and a bacon and egg flatbread which warmed my core.

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I motored down the mountainsides and turned north on 285/24 and enjoyed the mountain scenes to my west as the flat valley made the riding easy. My route turned back west on highway 82 and past Twin Lakes. The view here is fantastic. Very beautiful, very calm. This is also the place where I saw my first speed trap. There is a little village and the speed limit drops quickly. Look out fellow travelers.

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The climb up to Independence pass is gorgeous. You can see the tall mountains ahead, the road is tree lined and smooth, and there are glimpses of snow in the background.

The pass is covered in foot deep snow and the parking lot is full of outdoor folk with skis, snowshoes and other paraphenalia. Bicyclists are also cluttering the place. There is a race the next day that will cover this ground.

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I walk out through foot deep snow to an overlook. I talk with a nice family and they take my picture. Thanks guys!. Once again, a drone breaks the peace of the mountains. Arrgghhhh.

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I saddle up and start chasing bicycles down the mountain. As the the road levels, civilization appears and I enter the sprawl of Aspen. I don’t stop for coffee, but head on out to the towns of Carbondale and Glenwood Springs. I then turn onto I-70 and pass through some mighty steep rock canyons. Again...gorgeous. Alongside the interstate is a roaring river full of rafters. I’m able to glance at them from time to time. There is also a paved bicycle path that goes on for 20 or 30 miles. Wonderful engineering and planning.

I had originally planned to take the old Highway 6 back up into the mountains, but the day is late, storms are predicted and I see dark clouds in the hills. I stop in Silverthorne and get a room at the Days Inn. I’ve found that prices in Colorado are about half of those in Utah. Huzzaah.
Another bonus! My room has a garage for Nayati, so she is able to sleep soundly.

The clouds continued to darken, but never did dump on me. I’m not sure about the high places nearby. This was a beautiful day of riding that ended well.

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And...a little video.

[video=youtube_share;IYMvgv8l7XE]https://youtu.be/IYMvgv8l7XE[/video]
 
Day 12

Firsts:
Theme: Glorious
Destination: Silverthorne, Co. to Pueblo, Co.
Miles: 334

I pulled out of Silverthorne at zero dark thirty. It was colder than yesterday….41 degrees. Woolies and heated gear were deployed and off I went. I changed my route (now wishing I hadn’t) to save a little time. Storms were due in the mountains between 10 and 12 and I was headed across some high, open ground and I didn’t want to BE the ground for some lightning bolts.

Route 9 was nice for awhile and then I hit a stretch of construction. This stretch was about 10 miles long, the asphalt had been stripped, there were giant potholes and it was one rough, twitchy ride. The only saving grace was that it was 6:00 on a Sunday morning and no one was working and there was no traffic.

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The highlight of this stretch was a highway sign listing a couple of businesses at the next turn. One was Master Bait and Tackle. If it weren’t a DOT sign, I would’ve thought it was a joke. I didn’t get a pic myself, but I did look it up when I got home.
https://www.google.com/maps/uv?hl=en&pb=!1s0x876a122c1a3e7a7b:0x3ce16dd47e1426de!2m5!2m 2!1i80!2i80!3m1!2i100!3m1!7e115!4shttps://ssl.panoramio.com/photo/24156645!5smaster+bait+and+tackle,+colorado+-+Google+Search&imagekey=!1e4!2s24156645&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiQjabmxqjOAhVCYyYKHUgqBmwQoioIjgEwDg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


I made the first turn at the tiny town of Kremling. I was surprised to see an air strip and two antique military flight trainers sitting on the strip. I think one was a T-34 and the other an old Stearman.

I rolled on a little further and the terrain grew a little more mountainous. I passed through a few small towns, saw a couple of GS’s at a local breakfast joint, but I had planned to eat in Estes Park after crossing Rocky Mountain National Park.

The town of Granby led me to Grand Lake and as I passed Granby Lake, I was surprised at how many sailboats were in the mountain water. The area grew more forested and I was quickly in the park.

The climb started in heavily forested foothills, that quickly steepened. A sign warning of ice ahead raised my apprehension levels. There was sporadic snow melt on the road and I could easily imagine that each “damp” spot was black ice. I crawled up that mountain. Glad there was no traffic.

A campground appeared in my visor and a few people were observed stirring about in that sleepy, groggy way. While missing the camaraderie and new friendships that camping may yield, this morning demonstrated the benefits of motels. There was no equipment to pack, tents to dry, stiff joints to endure. Getting out early was the priority for me and was a successful strategy.

The climb continued through the trees with piles of white snow to accent the forest green. Then I burst out into the open spaces; a carpet of tundra decorating the space. The views were breathtaking. I motored up to the peak of the climb and spent a few minutes walking around the empty parking lot of the closed visitor center. Absolutely amazing. I was so glad that I had saved Rocky Mountain National Park for last. This was an appropriate culminating place.

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Arctic tundra covered mountains was an unexpected sight. I was unaware of the composition of the area until reading the signs encouraging visitors to stay off the fragile flora. Some of these plants take up to 80 years to bloom. Carelessness could cause tremendous damage.

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I remounted and motored on, enjoying the views of the mountains from above. The descent was most pleasant. Cars in great lines were ascending in the other lane and the wisdom of the early hour of departure was confirmed once again.

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A bakery was spotted on the edge of Estes Park so breakfast was sourced from this place. Being the rube that I am, I had difficulty with the menu. I was unfamiliar with many of the ingredients so a tried and true egg & sausage sandwich was ordered. The type of bread is still a mystery.

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A route was devised across the front range to take me south. Colorado highways 9, 72 and 119 were the crux of this section. I enjoyed some freshly paved roads with plenty of sweeping corners and forested views. I would guess at least a hundred motorcycles passed in the opposite direction. This area is a blessing to the Denver motorcyclist. As I neared I-72 my navigation became sloppy and some good opportunities were missed. I did pass through a narrow valley filled with casinos; Black Hawk, Colorado. This is the only place that I saw a facility for selling medicinal herbs, but then again I was not searching for the healing powers of plants.

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I-72 and then I-24 carried me towards Pueblo. The storms predicted for the morning had not arrived, but the clouds were building. If I were to do it again, I would have followed my planned route back into the mountains for a more bucolic ride and avoidance of the bumper to bumper traffic on the interstate. I was afraid of the unknown and getting caught out in the open during severe storms.

A motel was found and Nayati settled for the night by 4 P.M. An IHOP in the motel parking lot was a welcomed sight and breakfast was my supper. Upon exiting the IHOP, the clouds opened with a horrific volley. The storm was primarily to the east and headed further in that direction. Large hail and heavy lightning were reported. I watched the storms growth and path on radar and that observation moved me to reroute back into Kansas rather than enter Oklahoma. The red and orange radar reflections covered much of the latter.

Long hot ride tomorrow.

The video:

[video=youtube_share;RoTriFalElg]https://youtu.be/RoTriFalElg[/video]
 
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