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Need Help Front caliper locked up after mounting new wheels

RubyRider

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I feel like I'm going crazy, I went to put my new wheels on today. Everything mounted up just fine. I put on the front caliper and went to build the pressure back up. It won't release. I did have the top of the brake fluid res off but I can't figure it out. I feel incredibly stupid. I've done brake jobs on cars before. I know it's a different machine but the principle is the same.. right?
 
I feel like I'm going crazy, I went to put my new wheels on today. Everything mounted up just fine. I put on the front caliper and went to build the pressure back up. It won't release. I did have the top of the brake fluid res off but I can't figure it out. I feel incredibly stupid. I've done brake jobs on cars before. I know it's a different machine but the principle is the same.. right?
What is it that won’t release, the brake lever? Or, is it the brake caliper? Are you saying the wheel won’t spin anymore?
 
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What is it that won’t release, the brake lever? Or, is it the brake caliper? Are you saying the wheel won’t spin anymore?
Sorry, after squeezing the brake lever to get the brakes lined up so to speak, the caliper stays clamped. the piston wont go back in like a normal brake. same with the rear actually
 
Back to the basics: Are the axle spacers properly installed? If the wheel is not properly centered/mounted, then the brake will probably bind up.

As a side note, when installing the rear caliper during the course of wheel installation, be sure the slot in the caliper mount goes over the pin on the swingarm.
 
Back to the basics: Are the axle spacers properly installed? If the wheel is not properly centered/mounted, then the brake will probably bind up.

As a side note, when installing the rear caliper during the course of wheel installation, be sure the slot in the caliper mount goes over the pin on the swingarm.
larger one on the left side correct? if so then yes. rear caliper is slotted.
 
Back to the basics: Are the axle spacers properly installed? If the wheel is not properly centered/mounted, then the brake will probably bind up.

As a side note, when installing the rear caliper during the course of wheel installation, be sure the slot in the caliper mount goes over the pin on the swingarm.
I called a buddy, and he said I need to bleed the brakes? That doensn't make sense to me, even when swapping pads on my car I have never bled the brakes.
 
Is it actually "clamped" or just dragging? I feel like there probably isn't an issue with it. Nothing moves the pads away from the caliper when you let off....pressure just releases off the pistons. Why did you have the reservoir lid off, checking fluid level or something?
 
Is it actually "clamped" or just dragging? I feel like there probably isn't an issue with it. Nothing moves the pads away from the caliper when you let off....pressure just releases off the pistons. Why did you have the reservoir lid off, checking fluid level or something?
It is clamped, front wheel will not move
 
Is it actually "clamped" or just dragging? I feel like there probably isn't an issue with it. Nothing moves the pads away from the caliper when you let off....pressure just releases off the pistons. Why did you have the reservoir lid off, checking fluid level or something?
As far as the lid off, i was checking the level
 
I assume You did all of this with the help of a workshop manual or at least following the instructions in the owners manual ? Did You pump the forks to realign them before tightening the axle clamp ?
 
Can you explain what pump the forks means?
The Honda NC owners manual describes wheel R&R procedures. For the front wheel installation, prior to tightening the axle pinch clamp bolts, your are instructed to hold the front brake on and pump the forks severals times to aid in centering the lower fork pinch clamp on the axle, thus minimizing fork binding. See attached screen shot of owners manual B70318CD-B0BB-40A7-8103-0206B1B4CEE3.png
 
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The Honda NC owners manual describes wheel R&R procedures. For the front wheel installation, prior to tightening the axle pinch clamp bolts, your are instructed to hold the front brake on and pump the forks severals times to aid in centering the clamp on the axle, thus minimizing fork binding. See attached screen shot of owners manual View attachment 43645
I've heard of snugging caliper bolts then squeezing brake lever as you reach down and tighten caliper bolts, then release brake lever....but never pumping forks like that. I guess it makes sense, but I'm not sure how much it matters. Should be enough shaft inside the larger tube to keep it centered, I'd think. I've had wheels off of both my NC's many times, as well as my cruiser, never done that when reinstalling. I usually just push inward on the lower fork tube while tightening the pinch bolts after tightening the axle.
 
I've heard of snugging caliper bolts then squeezing brake lever as you reach down and tighten caliper bolts, then release brake lever....but never pumping forks like that. I guess it makes sense, but I'm not sure how much it matters. Should be enough shaft inside the larger tube to keep it centered, I'd think. I've had wheels off of both my NC's many times, as well as my cruiser, never done that when reinstalling. I usually just push inward on the lower fork tube while tightening the pinch bolts after tightening the axle.
The ”pump the forks” operation is for wheel installation, and really has nothing to do with the brakes. The lower fork clamp has some leeway in where it clamps the axle. Pumping the forks is a method that potentially makes sure the forks are parallel before you clamp the left fork to the axle. If the forks are parallel, they are not going to bind throughout the suspension travel range.

I have always done the “pump the forks“ procedure when installing the front wheel.
 
...Nothing moves the pads away from the caliper when you let off....pressure just rel;eases the pistons..."
The brake caliper has two seals. The outer one can be seen when you remove the pads and it's usually called the dust seal. The inner one which is not normally visible is the piston seal and it holds hydraulic pressure. That inner seal is an O-ring that is square in cross section, not round. The outer edge fits tightly into a groove cut in the caliper bore and the inner edge fits over the caliper piston.

When the brake is applied, the seal's outer edge is fixed in place by the caliper groove but the inner edge (tight around the piston) can stretch a tiny bit as the piston slides by. When brake pressure is relieved, the seal resumes it normal shape and in doing so it pulls the piston back. This feature also makes disc brakes self-adjusting as the pistons can move out by a tiny amount each time the brakes are applied to compensate for pad wear.

 
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Ruby Rider: Just out of curiosity, did you remove some of the fluid from the reservoir before you fitted the new pads?
 
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