Yes of course it's the changes from stock forks. I'm using Cogent Dynamic cartridge emulators and an oil level of 150 mm.Interesting that Racetech's number is so far off. Their web site says to use 120mm. Maybe that's due to different springs, or the emulators, or something.
Really? What doe s that mean? Do you know for a fact what materials are used for those O-rings? Parker Hannifin O-Ring Hnadbook Going to pay to get the bike fixed if ATF screws up the forks?Has excellent anti Foam properties and seal and oring compatibility. No surprise since an auto trans has dozens of seals and about 50-100 orings.
To quote from a popular website concerned with fork oils: "For years, ATF has been the standard fluid for damper rod forks. Why? Of all the commonly available automotive fluids capable of being used in the system, ATF is manufactured within a very, very tight and suitable viscosity range, esentially ISO 34.
Dang Dave, that is a wide range of information. You went from fluid dynamics engineering (fork oil) to shade tree mechanic with the home made chain lube. Once again very useful information. Please keep it coming.To quote from a popular website concerned with fork oils: "For years, ATF has been the standard fluid for damper rod forks. Why? Of all the commonly available automotive fluids capable of being used in the system, ATF is manufactured within a very, very tight and suitable viscosity range, esentially ISO 34.
This means that if you are in Florida or Mongolia, AFT is going to be available and consistant. This is a very important bit of information for the mechanic.
ATF is far too thick to be used in a modern cartridge damper fork. These forks tend to use oils in the ISO 16 range."
Suspension Fluid - Pvdwiki
The unsophisticated NC700X damping rod fork is going to be just fine with ATF. For many years ATF was the fork oil of choice in many brands, including Honda and BMW. My own preference is to use Honda branded fluids If I can but I ran ATF for 40,000 miles in a BMW R100 fork after first trying a Honda product in it. The money that Bring More Wallet extracted from my wallet was not the forks but from the clutch and transmission.
To muddy the waters further, I use a 50/50 mix of ATF & 80w/90 hypoid gear oil to lubricate my chain. The ATF is good to the chain O-rings, the gear oil good to lubricate.
Yes it is but to the latter, you’re not doing it right. My rear wheel and swing arm stays as clean as a shaft driven bike and the chain is much cleaner than it ever was using aerosol chain lubes. Having a booger of PJ chain lube fling off and stain my Aerostich was the last straw and caused me to take the advice of 50/50 ATF & gear oil.Fork oil vs ATF: Fluid designed for the task at hand vs fluid that ‘will work, or at least appear to work, adequately.’
Gear oil is superb chain lube. It just flings everywhere, stinks like sulphur, and is a dirt magnet.