fork oil level with Race Tech Gold Valve

670cc

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..I am still confused.. RT gives 120 mm and stock 104 mm, measured from the top to oil level - So more air would be with RT setup, right? At least before installing the spring..

I am afraid I bent something while replacing the seals.. When I was putting valve on top of the rod on one side it did not look centered and after installing the forks back they seem too wide on the bottom.. There is a gap between spacer and a fork after installing the wheel..

View attachment 44854
Your axle at the clamp looks fine. It looks like mine. Attached is a picture I took moments ago. Also, I seem to remember from a previous discussion that the two front spacers are the same size, so you couldn't mess up by swapping them. Verify with a parts listing FBCC9D29-FE76-47B1-B14A-E50713A478A7.jpeg
 

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The

You are correct. I got the oil level backwards. It is measured from the top of the tube to the oil level so RT's level is lower. No matter, it just means the RT instructions are to be followed and the resistance to compression will be less in the bottom half to 66% of travel. RT knows what they are talking about.

The damping rod does not align the forks, they are aligned by the top bridge and lower clamp. If the fork tubes are straight and the clamps are straight the forks will align. Typically only a collision or crash will bend a fork tube or clamp. Did you follow the service manual procedure when reassembling the forks? Basically tighten the axle to torque spec. Leave the left side lower axle pinch bolt loose. Place the bike on it's wheels and bounce the forks up and down to align the axle in the fork sliders then tighten the axle pinch bolt. Is the axle fully torqued into the left fork slider? The outside of the axle should be flush with the fork leg. Maybe you mixed up the left side and right side wheel spacers.

Thank you, Dave! I will check if the axle if flush or not. I did follow the procedure to bounce. I thought left and right side wheel spacers are the same on NC. Maybe this is my screw-up..
 

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Don’t shout too loud at me. My front wheel and spacers are the same as the photos posted. No matter what I did loosening the forks bouncing etc I couldn’t get the wheel centered. After my forensic examination I concluded that the spacers need to be longer. So to solve the problem I had 2 spare washers from inside forks that fit the bill exactly. Fitted them one to the outside of both the spacers and voila one centered wheel.
 

dduelin

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Thank you, Dave! I will check if the axle if flush or not. I did follow the procedure to bounce. I thought left and right side wheel spacers are the same on NC. Maybe this is my screw-up..
670cc had it right. The spacers have the same part number and are the same.
 

serge

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Don’t shout too loud at me. My front wheel and spacers are the same as the photos posted. No matter what I did loosening the forks bouncing etc I couldn’t get the wheel centered. After my forensic examination I concluded that the spacers need to be longer. So to solve the problem I had 2 spare washers from inside forks that fit the bill exactly. Fitted them one to the outside of both the spacers and voila one centered wheel.

You have no trust in Honda's engineers ;).
 

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after I installed the gold valve the bike ran fine on the highway but had some more front wobble at low speed than before (when letting off the bars). That made me paranoid about that gap on one side. I think it may be a combination of too much preload with a worn front tire. I did not cut the spacer yet, want to measure the front sag first. I was also thinking about installing preload adjuster to play with https://www.amazon.com/Aftermarket-Adjuster-KAWASAKI-Motorcycles-Adjusters/dp/B08PV4QD58
 

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after I installed the gold valve the bike ran fine on the highway but had some more front wobble at low speed than before (when letting off the bars). That made me paranoid about that gap on one side. I think it may be a combination of too much preload with a worn front tire. I did not cut the spacer yet, want to measure the front sag first. I was also thinking about installing preload adjuster to play with https://www.amazon.com/Aftermarket-Adjuster-KAWASAKI-Motorcycles-Adjusters/dp/B08PV4QD58
I installed preload adjusters for fine tuning. At the moment they are fully backed off with no reason for adjustment (for now).
 

MZ5

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CB1100 fork caps also have preload adjustment and screw right in to the NCX's forks. That's what I have on mine.

I may have read too quickly and missed the 'problem' with the fork spacers and such. What's the deal? FWIW, my forks are 'too wide' at the axle, so as I tighten the axle bolt those ends get pulled together a bit.
 

Wedders

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CB1100 fork caps also have preload adjustment and screw right in to the NCX's forks. That's what I have on mine.

I may have read too quickly and missed the 'problem' with the fork spacers and such. What's the deal? FWIW, my forks are 'too wide' at the axle, so as I tighten the axle bolt those ends get pulled together a bit.
If you look at the photo the gap between the spacer and the fork is actually filled by the axle/spindle. It can’t pull the legs together because it slides right through the hole in the fork and only tightens onto the spacer therefore potentially leaving the wheel slightly off centre. Whether this is a problem or not I don’t know
 

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CB1100 fork caps also have preload adjustment and screw right in to the NCX's forks. That's what I have on mine.

I may have read too quickly and missed the 'problem' with the fork spacers and such. What's the deal? FWIW, my forks are 'too wide' at the axle, so as I tighten the axle bolt those ends get pulled together a bit.
I'm not sure I understand you correctly, but like Wedders said, as long as your axle clamp pinch bolt is loose, tightening the axle can't pull the fork legs together. The axle bolt is not fixed to the chain drive side fork leg until you tighten the pinch bolt. There is no head or flange on the non-threaded head end of the axle, that I know of.
 
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