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Cluster has power but won't turn on

Mykil

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Hi all...

Looking for help...rode the bike and parked it at home, next morning turn the key and nothing...this is the second time. First time I traced power to the cluster and nothing so I replaced the cluster and all was good. Now it's doing the same 2 months later which leads me to believe it's something else...can't burn through 2 clusters in 2 months....

If you can help please do...
 
Get the schematics for the motorcycle, and a voltmeter, and trace voltage until you find where it’s lost. Start at the battery, then through the main 30 amp fuse, the ignition switch, and on until you locate the failure or open circuit. Since you say you get “nothing”, which I can only assume means nothing electrical functions on the motorcycle, I’d doubt the combination meter (cluster?) has much to do with the problem. While you need to test the positive side of the circuits, don’t forget about ground connections. Without more information from you there is not much more I can offer.
 
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Hi...thanks for the tips...have tested all the way from the battery up till the positive pins connecting the cluster...there is power but when you turn ignition to on ...the whole bike is dead...I have encountered it before and changed the instrument cluster and all was solved ...only to see now it's doing it again. Can't understand why though...which leads me to believe there is something else at fault...can't see obvious fuse in inside the cluster either
 
Hi...thanks for the tips...have tested all the way from the battery up till the positive pins connecting the cluster...there is power but when you turn ignition to on ...the whole bike is dead...I have encountered it before and changed the instrument cluster and all was solved ...only to see now it's doing it again. Can't understand why though...which leads me to believe there is something else at fault...can't see obvious fuse in inside the cluster either
It sounds like you have a resistive connection at the battery or in other power distribution systems. You perhaps have voltage at the cluster if it’s 24 hour power, but when you turn the ignition key on, you add additional loads and voltage drop through a resistive path, and thus your combination meter voltage drops significantly. I suggest you focus less on the instrument cluster and troubleshoot why the voltage for the whole motorcycle has dropped when the key is on. This sounds like a classic bad battery, bad battery connection, bad ground connection, or other resistive path in the main power circuits.

With the key on, what is the voltage measured at the battery terminals? From the positive battery terminal to the frame?
 
I'd look real hard at that ignition switch. Turn it on and off multiple times and jiggle the key all around. It might be worn or corroded contacts in the switch.
 
Hi all...

Problem solved...turned out previous owner hooked up aux lights to the connector where the ignition plugs in...using a galvanised connector plug...some corrosion occured thus the intermediate problem...cleaned the connectors and removed the connector and all was sorted.

After tracing wires from diagram and a whole lot of luck I'm back on the road.

Thanks a lot for the suggestions
Wonderful being a part of this forum
Thanks a million
 
Changing anything in the wiring system can easily upset the computer.
Going from incandescent to led tells the computer the bulb is burned out because the wattage draw is so low.
Any electrical modifications to a vehicle need to be looked at carefully. Green Lights Blue Skies.
 
Changing anything in the wiring system can easily upset the computer.
Going from incandescent to led tells the computer the bulb is burned out because the wattage draw is so low.
Any electrical modifications to a vehicle need to be looked at carefully. Green Lights Blue Skies.
I'm not aware of any models in the NC series that have lamp-out sensing done by a computer. Which NC model are you referring to?
 
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