Need Help Cheap throttle lock install goes wrong.

[the Ferret]

Slips on the NC even though I put 2 silicone bands on it (only have 1 silicone band on the 11) and tighten the beejeebers out of it. As soon as you let go the speed starts to drop 60,59,58,57 etc.

 

[bikemiser]

Slips on the NC even though I put 2 silicone bands on it (only have 1 silicone band on the 11) and tighten the beejeebers out of it. As soon as you let go the speed starts to drop 60,59,58,57 etc.

That was my experience also with the Go Cruise. I am using the Atlas(design) and It works great.

 

[dduelin]

Slips on the NC even though I put 2 silicone bands on it (only have 1 silicone band on the 11) and tighten the beejeebers out of it. As soon as you let go the speed starts to drop 60,59,58,57 etc.

I think you may have seen the video I posted a while back showing mine holding the set speed of 60 or 65 mph for a minute or two? I since deleted the video but it does show how it does not slip on my NC.

On three NCs and the Tiger I rode at least 80,000 miles using three different Go Cruise on four bikes. I tried the metal version with the thumbscrew but quickly abandoned it as I didn’t like the width of it on the NCs somewhat small grips. My forefinger rubbed against it. Not small diameter grips but small width across end to end compared to other bikes. I prefer the simple plastic one. The first plastic one came with two or three holes molded into it and I threaded a small zip tie through a hole and around the bottom of it. When pulled tight this increased the clamping pressure. This fixed the slow slipping but it was still easy to roll off throttle. Regrettably I left this one on the second NC when I sold it. When I bought the current NC I purchased another plastic GC but it didn’t have the molded in holes. Turns out I didn’t need the extra clamp pressure with the thicker tackier Pro Grip hand grips as it holds speed. If I had stock grips and it slipped with the supplied single silicone band I would drill holes in each part for a zip tie or try roughing up with 180 grit sandpaper the parts that clamp the grip. I know how well the plastic GC works for me. Having had both simple and expensive friction locks on various bikes I have no use for them.

 

[mrbios]

Household solid wire 15 or 12 AWG - Throttle Lock Works better than anything I have ever used because it requires minor adjustment, is ultra slim, never wears out and is probably the only universally compatible solution that works with all grips, handlebars, thickness, heated grips and other accessories. Requires no modification of the bar ends or cutting grips etc.

Fairly easy to install and adjust to get the right level of friction. Maintains the same level of friction and only needs minor adjustment maybe once a month if you ride every day.

I made a short video:

 

[the Ferret]

I think you may have seen the video I posted a while back showing mine holding the set speed of 60 or 65 mph for a minute or two? I since deleted the video but it does show how it does not slip on my NC.

On three NCs and the Tiger I rode at least 80,000 miles using three different Go Cruise on four bikes. I tried the metal version with the thumbscrew but quickly abandoned it as I didn’t like the width of it on the NCs somewhat small grips. My forefinger rubbed against it. Not small diameter grips but small width across end to end compared to other bikes. I prefer the simple plastic one. The first plastic one came with two or three holes molded into it and I threaded a small zip tie through a hole and around the bottom of it. When pulled tight this increased the clamping pressure. This fixed the slow slipping but it was still easy to roll off throttle. Regrettably I left this one on the second NC when I sold it. When I bought the current NC I purchased another plastic GC but it didn’t have the molded in holes. Turns out I didn’t need the extra clamp pressure with the thicker tackier Pro Grip hand grips as it holds speed. If I had stock grips and it slipped with the supplied single silicone band I would drill holes in each part for a zip tie or try roughing up with 180 grit sandpaper the parts that clamp the grip. I know how well the plastic GC works for me. Having had both simple and expensive friction locks on various bikes I have no use for them.

Yea I have the metal one with the thumb screw. I'll play with it some more when I get back from the CB rally next week. It's mounted up on the CB right now for the trip to Virginia.

 

[the Ferret]

Household solid wire 15 or 12 AWG - Throttle Lock Works better than anything I have ever used because it requires minor adjustment, is ultra slim, never wears out and is probably the only universally compatible solution that works with all grips, handlebars, thickness, heated grips and other accessories. Requires no modification of the bar ends or cutting grips etc.

Fairly easy to install and adjust to get the right level of friction. Maintains the same level of friction and only needs minor adjustment maybe once a month if you ride every day.

I made a short video:

Interesting. I'd be afraid of something like that on a DCT model which I have, where there is no way to disconnect the power quickly (as with pulling in a clutch). It's why I won't use a cramp buster. Once power is applied you are shooting forward like it or not.

 

[mrbios]

Interesting. I'd be afraid of something like that on a DCT model which I have, where there is no way to disconnect the power quickly (as with pulling in a clutch). It's why I won't use a cramp buster. Once power is applied you are shooting forward like it or not.

It's definitely not for everyone and you might consider the type I show near the end of the video where applying the brake cancels the throttle lock. Interestingly, my 1992 bmw k75s had a factory throttle lock in the form of a large screw that adds resistance to the throttle assembly.

 

[dduelin]

The one thing that separates devices like the Go Cruise from other friction locks is that the GC does not simply hold the throttle at one place like friction locks do. The GC keeps the throttle from dropping below a throttle opening the rider sets by pressing the GC against the front brake lever but the rider is free to open the throttle more but when released it goes back to the previous speed setting. This removes half of the fiddly micro adjustments one must make with simple friction locks to account for hills and for passing slower vehicles. Yesterday I was riding in north central Florida where the terrain is gently rolling hills (yes, there are hills in Florida). So imagine riding along at 60 mph. I push the GC down against the brake lever so it keeps the throttle set for 60 mph. The GC is free enough to be pushed against the lever but tight enough hold a set speed but when the throttle is rolled closed the GC is pushed up into the OFF position. So riding along at 60 mph I start up a hill. I want to hold 60 so the natural response is to roll on a little bit more throttle. As I sense I am nearing the crest of the hill I ease off the extra throttle and the GC hits the front brake lever again and holds to the previously set setting. If I don't time the approaching crest correctly the bike might still sag to 58 or 59 at the crest and on the down grade it might pick up to 62 or 63 but as the road flattens out it resumes running at 60 mph.

If you have had a real cruise control all this prattling about throttle locks is a bit pedantic. No add-on friction device works as well as a well engineered cruise control but there are big differences in friction lock functionality. You can spend a lot more than the $20 a Go Cruise and get something that is not worth fiddling with in use. I had the $180 Throttlemeister on my ST1300 and ended up using a GC for a hundred thousand miles.

 

[ST13Fred]

The Cat O ring didn’t work for me on my 2012. Rolled into place the bike lost speed immediately although not as quickly as just closing the throttle does. I next tried the Go Cruise and it’s worked great on all three NCs I’ve had.

Look guys. We should never be riding interstates anyway. If I have to be on one, I'll be in my Accord Hybrid with a little Def Leppard 9 Inch Nails on the Bose.

 

[670cc]

Look guys. We should never be riding interstates anyway. If I have to be on one, I'll be in my Accord Hybrid with a little 9 Inch Nails on the Bose.

Sure. So, say you’re traveling by motorcycle and you need to pass through a large city. Do you just take all the residential streets through town or do you get through on an interstate highway? Say you’re homesick, on the bike 1500 miles from home, and you want to make better time across Nebraska. Do you stick to the rural routes or get on I-80? Or does your “We” apply to just a certain group of people that should never be riding interstates?

While I much prefer to avoid interstate highways, I use them when needed or wanted.

Don’t generalize. My ride may not be the same as your ride.

 

[SteveL]

Installed an inexpensive, lock ring type throttle lock, that replaced the stock handle bar end. It took a couple of extra washers but I got it to work. I was so confident, that I went ahead and put some blue lock tight and buttoned everything back up. Yesterday I actually used the throttle lock, and while it did work, I wasn’t really happy with it.

Fast forward to today. Hold on to the outer cap and start unscrewing. It takes a bit of effort but the screw breaks loose and I continue unscrewing and unscrewing but it’s not unscrewing with even resistance , there’s resistance then a build up of pressure, than a release, and the screw isn’t coming out. It did back out some because the tl components loosen up a bit but at some point something is just spinning. I was able to tighten the screw down again but when backing out, same behavior.

I can’t fit it all together in my head yet but, after doing my YouTube and forum searches, I think this is what happened: loosening my locktighted screw caused the handlebar weight to break/deform the pathetic little ears that are the “lock” part of the handle bar end. The weight is just spinning in the handle bar as I attempt to unscrew. At some point, the lock-tite must’ve broken because of the slight movement I’ve seen and the ability to tighten things back down. I may have broken the grip weight in such a way that it turns counterclockwise but locks clockwise.

If my hypothesis is correct, the only solution I can come up with is to attempt to drill the head off the screw as a way to get the throttle lock off so I can get to the weight. If I can, then, I figure out a way to lock the weight in place while I use vice grips to hopefully remove the screw. If that fails, I start down the road of trying to remove the weight itself.

Would appreciate feedback on my hypothesis and (hopefully) any other tips/tricks to try before I start burning through drill bits.

I can't remember using Loctite on anything, ever.

I did install a similar throttle friction device on my NC750XDCT. Only problem was it was a little bit longer than the original weight so I had to tap the anchor in a bit. I don't think that's ever coming out. It works great by the way.

 

[the Ferret]

Some freeways are actually pretty nice imo

 

[dduelin]

Some freeways are actually pretty nice imo

West Virginia’s I-77 comes to mind as does I-80 in the high Sierras before tumbling down into Sacramento.

 

[the Ferret]

I 64 in Kentucky, I 75 in Kentucky and Tennessee when not passing thru a major city, I 40 east of Knoxville, I 70 in Colorado come to mind