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Need Help Cheap throttle lock install goes wrong.

Whytenoise

Whytenoise

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Installed an inexpensive, lock ring type throttle lock, that replaced the stock handle bar end. It took a couple of extra washers but I got it to work. I was so confident, that I went ahead and put some blue lock tight and buttoned everything back up. Yesterday I actually used the throttle lock, and while it did work, I wasn’t really happy with it.

Fast forward to today. Hold on to the outer cap and start unscrewing. It takes a bit of effort but the screw breaks loose and I continue unscrewing and unscrewing but it’s not unscrewing with even resistance , there’s resistance then a build up of pressure, than a release, and the screw isn’t coming out. It did back out some because the tl components loosen up a bit but at some point something is just spinning. I was able to tighten the screw down again but when backing out, same behavior.

I can’t fit it all together in my head yet but, after doing my YouTube and forum searches, I think this is what happened: loosening my locktighted screw caused the handlebar weight to break/deform the pathetic little ears that are the “lock” part of the handle bar end. The weight is just spinning in the handle bar as I attempt to unscrew. At some point, the lock-tite must’ve broken because of the slight movement I’ve seen and the ability to tighten things back down. I may have broken the grip weight in such a way that it turns counterclockwise but locks clockwise.

If my hypothesis is correct, the only solution I can come up with is to attempt to drill the head off the screw as a way to get the throttle lock off so I can get to the weight. If I can, then, I figure out a way to lock the weight in place while I use vice grips to hopefully remove the screw. If that fails, I start down the road of trying to remove the weight itself.

Would appreciate feedback on my hypothesis and (hopefully) any other tips/tricks to try before I start burning through drill bits.
 
potter0o said:
If the locking clip is broken you may be able to pull the internal weight out.
Click to expand...
I tried, it doesn't budge in or out, just counter clockwise. I've been trying to save the screw head but since I am going to probably drill it out anyway, will try using a cordless drill to unscrew. Maybe additional torque/rotational speed will jar something loose before the screw head strips.
 
Whytenoise said:
I tried, it doesn't budge in or out, just counter clockwise. I've been trying to save the screw head but since I am going to probably drill it out anyway, will try using a cordless drill to unscrew. Maybe additional torque/rotational speed will jar something loose before the screw head strips.
Click to expand...
One of the reasons I bought an NC750x was because I didn't want a bike I was afraid to work on. I am glad I did. If I had just made the mistakes that I made on a BMW, I would be kicking myself all the way to the bank. I am incredibly rusty at being a mechanic. Been watching too much of the wrong people on YouTube and my common sense has suffered for it. There is absolutely NO REASON to put Loctite on the handlebar end screw, at least not right away. You have an issue with it backing out, put a tiny little drop on it and keep adding if you need to. Don't slop it on and then decide to take the screw back out. In case you haven't guessed, my putting loctite on the screw (in addition to being naturally dense) was the cause of all my woes.

So this is what happened:
Potter0o's comment stuck in my head...if I was understanding what was happening correctly, the weight should be coming out. Well, once I rolled my grip back, I could see that it had a bit. There was enough of a gap that I could get a flat bladed screw driver in there and start wiggling it. It started coming finally and the whole thing came out. I was wrong about the throttle lock, the tabs held up fine, it was the loctite. It was stronger than whatever was trying to hold the weight in place. I was able to finally get the screw out by holding on to the weight with a pair of pliers. I took the throttle lock off and pushed the weight back into the bar with the two little clips in place by using a socket. Then I put on the original end (without loctite!). The bar-end and weight can be rotated if you put some pressure on them but they are still pretty firmly in place. I know that I want to replace the screw because the head is pretty banged up but I am debating whether to replace the weight clips (which I assume is what broke and what usually prevents the weight from rotating) or not. I know I am not going to until I sort out what throttle lock I am going with. (I don't like the design/look of the Atlas and the Kaoko is too expensive. I may still try and make this cheap one work but I need to figure out a better way to provide friction and also better grip for gloved hands)

Anyway, thanks for reading this far and remember that a little loctite goes a long way!
 
Glad you got it sorted out. I was going to post a picture of the weight mechanism when I got home. I still have mine out with the Winter hand guards in place. I have not used any thread locker on the weight screw.
 
Caterpillar dozer had, if I recall, a yellow o-ring that worked perfectly. My set-up.
!st pic is stowed, 2nd rolled into place. Works perfectly. 1.483" is OD.
 

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I will say I used blue Loctite on my bar end screws after I lost one, and the end cap, riding washboard fire roads over a long weekend. The constant heavy vibration worked out the bolt (I have barkbusters installed) and the barkbuster was just wobbling in space. I locked those puppies down after that.
 
There is a lot of vibration at the bar ends and tail end of all bikes. I lost the entire mounting bracket and license on a CB900F.
Motus offered a more sturdy license bracket because of OEM cracking failure. Loctite the bar end screws or they will constantly loosen.
 
ST13Fred said:
Caterpillar dozer had, if I recall, a yellow o-ring that worked perfectly. My set-up.
!st pic is stowed, 2nd rolled into place. Works perfectly. 1.465" is OD.
Click to expand...
That's brilliant. If I understand correctly, you are just rolling the o-ring into place when you want to have the throttle "stick" in a position then you adjust the throttle as needed. Is it fairly consistent or does it lose its grip at times? Any safety concerns?
 
ST13Fred said:
Caterpillar dozer had, if I recall, a yellow o-ring that worked perfectly. My set-up.
!st pic is stowed, 2nd rolled into place. Works perfectly. 1.465" is OD.
Click to expand...
I am confused by your dimension drawing. I read it as saying a 1.6" inner diameter, .211" thickness and a 1.465" outer diameter...If I understand correctly, the #'s don't add up. 1.811" is what I come up with for the OD.
 
Whytenoise said:
That's brilliant. If I understand correctly, you are just rolling the o-ring into place when you want to have the throttle "stick" in a position then you adjust the throttle as needed. Is it fairly consistent or does it lose its grip at times? Any safety concerns?
Click to expand...
Whytenoise said:
I am confused by your dimension drawing. I read it as saying a 1.6" inner diameter, .211" thickness and a 1.465" outer diameter...If I understand correctly, the #'s don't add up. 1.811" is what I come up with for the OD.
Click to expand...
I revised my numbers above. ID is 1.063. It rolls on tight and holds position. Can still change settings with effort. For safety reasons, only use this on interstate riding. On any other riding one is continually modulating the throttle.
 
The Cat O ring didn’t work for me on my 2012. Rolled into place the bike lost speed immediately although not as quickly as just closing the throttle does. I next tried the Go Cruise and it’s worked great on all three NCs I’ve had.
 
dduelin said:
The Cat O ring didn’t work for me on my 2012. Rolled into place the bike lost speed immediately although not as quickly as just closing the throttle does. I next tried the Go Cruise and it’s worked great on all three NCs I’ve had.
Click to expand...
this was my experience on my 2015. The O-ring worked for a bit, then started slipping -- don't know if it stretched in the weather or what. I also went with the Go Cruise.
 
The Go Cruise might need some fettling to to speed indefinitely like it squeezing a little more or use of thicker or tackier grips.
 
.... or a lot of fettling. I couldnt get one to work worth beans on my NC, but it works " fairly well" on my CB as long as the road is perfectly flat.
 
the Ferret said:
.... or a lot of fettling. I couldnt get one to work worth beans on my NC, but it works " fairly well" on my CB as long as the road is perfectly flat.
Click to expand...
Maybe we can figure it out. If it works fairly well on the 1100 but not on the NC what does it do differently?
 
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