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changing air filter little bit complicated...

It wasn't until I read this thread that I realized Honda calls for replacing it every 12k miles. Mine was just past 20k when I changed it today and light came through when I held the old one up to the shop light. Staying on pavement helps. I think the next time I change it will be after 24k miles.

FWIW, the videos of changing the filter show removing fasteners that really don't have to be removed, like the ones for the cable guides and the ones inside the frunk for the latch mechanism.
 
Hi new owner bike has 8k n due a yearly service replacing plugs filters n oil as it seems a little down on power and splutters a little when idleing d ya recon it will help ?
 
Hi new owner bike has 8k n due a yearly service replacing plugs filters n oil as it seems a little down on power and splutters a little when idleing d ya recon it will help ?

I’m not sure how to answer, as I can’t clearly decipher your post due to the lack of complete words, punctuation, and sentence structure. However, there is no “yearly service” schedule. Spark plugs and air filter are not due for replacement at 8000 miles or kilometers (whichever you are referring to), and are unlikely to be the cause of your bike’s sputtering and power loss.
 
That’s true, and I don’t disagree. However, the seat is an engineering disaster and readily visible to potential buyers, yet they are undeterred. I’d guess the hidden air filter is far from their minds when making a purchase decision.

I find that after changing the air filter on a GL1800, the NC700X job is pretty simple, and I don’t complain so much.
Tell me about it. The next time a compliant is made about changing the air filter on the NC I'll say "I'll trade you!"

IMG_2486.jpgIMG_2485.jpg
 
If that’s yours, Dave, congratulations on the find and the purchase!

Once you’ve taken that top shelter off a few times, it goes pretty fast, but it’s still a lot of work. At least the valves are easy to get to, but they need checking only every 32k miles, and I’ll be at least at 96k miles before I ever change a shim, if even then.
 
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I helped a friend last week changing the filter on his NC750X and it was considerably easier than the same process on my former 2012 NC700X. Perhaps the more modern versions of the NC700X are a little easier ?
 
I appreciate the video.
I do think it is entirely too complicated with too many different fasteners.
Shame on (and a spanking to) the engineers that came up with that nonsense.
I have not read all posts so sorry if I have repeated something I should have just "thanked".

OK, so I went back and read the whole thing.
I guess if I can stretch it out to 24k mi. it is not such a big deal. I do ride little now compared to "back in the day" with no car.
 
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It's actually very easy to do, I've watched the video halfways but then went on and removed all fairings and screws I needed to remove, and it came apart in 1 piece.
Those clicky fasteners are so much more easier to undo than hex bolts.
Next year the warranty on my bike ends, so I can do everything myself because I hate spending some extra cash I could save by doing it myself :D
 
It's actually very easy to do, I've watched the video halfways but then went on and removed all fairings and screws I needed to remove, and it came apart in 1 piece.
Those clicky fasteners are so much more easier to undo than hex bolts.
Next year the warranty on my bike ends, so I can do everything myself because I hate spending some extra cash I could save by doing it myself :D

What came apart in one piece?
We have had one of ours apart and I am glad that we had a cardboard piece with a drawing on it so we could put each fastener in a "location" to get them all back on. Or maybe I am getting so old and forgetful that I am no longer qualified. My sons even take pics along the way though.Taylor's turn signal 5.JPG
 
What came apart in one piece?
We have had one of ours apart and I am glad that we had a cardboard piece with a drawing on it so we could put each fastener in a "location" to get them all back on. Or maybe I am getting so old and forgetful that I am no longer qualified. My sons even take pics along the way though.View attachment 36407
The big top piece where the lock for the frunk is seated :)
I work via the method of elimination, and check if everything fits, that works too [emoji14]
 
K&N isn't so bad.

My Nissan truck started to idle badly, so I looked at the air filter[I bought the truck used] and discovered it was a K&N. So I cleaned and re oiled it using K&N products, and while I was at it took a look at my MAS [mass air sensor] , just 2 screws. It was covered in sooty oil. Jot some cleaner and problem solved. For awhile, as it is idling badly again. I suspect the K&N oil is fouling the MAS. I did not over oil it as I suspected the might be the problem. I'm going to buy a paper filter and clean the MAS again. I don't know if this could be an issue with the 700x as I don't think we have a MAS, but I'm not taking the chance as the filter needs to be changed so infrequently.

I have run K&N filters in vehicles since 09 I've never had an issue. Only thing I can think has happened to your vehicle is someone over oiled it when it came down to servicing the filter. I've never done so with the aerosol mixture but I would imagine the pour on it would be easy to do so. I have nothing bad I can say about them and I'm happy never having to buy another filter just keep cleaning.
 
For me, it depends in part upon whether I've had to ride during/through a haboob. Also, I tend to have lots of weed seeds and other significant 'stuff' in the pleats by the time I service or change the filter. I changed the first filter at ~12,000 miles, and this time at ~14,000 more, mainly because I was going to be away from home and on the bike for a couple months and wanted to have everything fresh and ready for a zero-maintenance experience. :)

All that said, I run a K&N which has lots more surface area than the stock filter, and while clearly dirty, it wasn't likely near 'needing' to be serviced. So, perhaps it will work fine to go to at least the factory-specified interval, or maybe as far as you're planning to go, next time. ..so long as I can avoid the dusty haboobies...
:)

I usually do the filter change on all my vehicles after monsoon season is over in October-November.
 
I bet the filter location was a packaging constraint to accommodate the trunk.

I'll take all this complication in changing an air filter if I get to have a trunk that swallows my full-face helmet on the bike. I think Honda prioritized correctly here. I use the trunk multiple times every day!

All of that said, it looks like I'm losing my challenge to do a valve adjustment during a 1-hour lunch break. (First one that I know of on the bike... (I'm the second owner)... It came to my attention last week around 38k miles.
 
Seems like Honda hired the Rubik's Cube inventor to design the body work, as if to give Honda mechanics more business. I did a DIY tail tidy & was surprised by the complexity & the way the parts fit together like a strange puzzle. If I had a do over I'd get the maintenance manual first. I'd also make a video to record the order of disassembly & assembly. I printed the BikeBandit parts diagram & it helped. Will begin the air filter check soon. Not due yet but it's a new leftover so it's a rat nest check I've been putting off. Aside from the body work I love this bike! Since 2012 I've been curious & now, glad I have one.
 
I've changed mine twice. Fiddly but not a game stopper. After market filters are available much cheaper than Honda OEM. I change'em at 24,000 mile intervals. I'll not run K&N.

I punch the fasteners thru a piece of cardboard, in order, as I remove them.

Check Engine light will stay on if ya forget to reattach the air flow sensor connector. :D
 
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