Best Chain and sprocket to purchase ?

[Ponyperformance8]

Alright guys just to get your input on the best chain and sprocket purchase here.

I have a 2012 Manual with 14K and I think it is finally time.

Should I go ahead and replace both sprockets? I am running taller shinko 705s so is there is a need to go down a few teeth on the rear sprocket ?

Last but not least, this is the first bike I have owned so I am a noob, is one type of chain better than the other ? According to the website below, I certainly have my choices

520 Chain Kit - JT Brand Steel Sprockets with Your Choice of X'ring Chain - HONDA NC 700 2012-2016 - NC 700S/ 700X - Standard - NC 700 (all models) 2012-2015 - Honda - STREET

Thanks for the help!

 

[kumatae]

I'm curious to know what others have gone with. I've only used o rings. But dang 14k miles on oem front and rear sprockets?!?! Hope mine last that long.


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[showkey]

I'm curious to know what others have gone with. I've only used o rings. But dang 14k miles on oem front and rear sprockets?!?! Hope mine last that long.


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14k on the sprockets is not unusual or rare. With ordinary care and maintainace on the sprockets you might not be able to tell old from new.
Many have replaced the chain at relatively low miles for kinking, sticking links or noise. Few have mentioned replacing for stretching or inability to adjust as per the shop manual. There are specific chain measurements that can be made to determine actual wear. Sticky links are a sign the oring seals have failed and the internal lube has been compromised. Sticky links will make the chain tight and loose as the rear wheel is rotated.

Think some chains and sprockets were replaced because it was a popular post on the forum as opposed to chain or sprocket problems or actual wear.

 

[rippin209]

From sprocket center I got a DID chain and ultra light sprocket set, it's a whole kit. Chain lasted over 20k the sprocket is still on the bike. If you got 14k with the OEM chain you'll get plenty of life out of the next one. The factory chains usually lasted 5k-10k for most of us. I've learned to change my chain a little earlier, I used to try and squeeze every mile I could out of it but a shot out chain will make the whole bike seem like it has problems

 

[Beemerphile]

Should I go ahead and replace both sprockets? I am running taller shinko 705s so is there is a need to go down a few teeth on the rear sprocket ? Last but not least, this is the first bike I have owned so I am a noob, is one type of chain better than the other ?

I would never change a chain without a new front sprocket. Put a small amount of moly paste cut with 50% high-temp grease on the sprocket splines to prevent fretting wear on the splines. Cheap insurance. The rear can often go a couple of chains, and depending on the construction, even more. For a taller tire you want to go up a few teeth on the rear sprocket rather than down to offset the gearing. Everyone has a favorite chain. Any quality (name brand) x-ring chain will give good service.

 

[2wheels4fun]

I changed my oem chain and sprockets at 32K miles. Need to be changed at 29k when it started making noise and could not figure it out since the rear sprocket and chain seemed fine. Only had 8 teeth left on the front sprocket, missing every other tooth. I do run a tutor chain oilier since about 1500 miles. Used motor oil in it the entire time. Little messy on back end.

 

[670cc]

The VX2 is a popular chain and it's well liked. I'm running one now.

As mentioned already, if you want to compensate for the larger Shinko tire, you'll need a larger rear sprocket. One tooth more pretty much makes up the difference, as it's not much really. I probably wouldn't mess with it unless you really want lower gearing. If you go two teeth bigger in the rear you'll need two more links in the chain. Just to see, I tried to mount a 45 tooth rear with a standard chain length and it's too tight.

A rivet type master link will be arguably safer than a clip type, but you will need a chain rivet tool to install it. The Motion Pro PBR tool is a nice one.

Youll notice a 39 and a 43 tooth rear sprocket is offerred. The 43 is for the manual, while the 39 is for DCT. Chain length for manual is 114 links.

 

[bamamate]

I use sprocket center and have used the Vx2 chain. I change at a min the front sprocket with a chain. I don't remember the size on the 705. If it is 150/70 then 2 more teeth on the rear gets you to tad higher gearing than stock and 3 teeth is a tad lower than stock. I went 2 teeth and as 670 said you need 2 more chain links, chains are lengthened/shortened in 2 link increments, but that makes the chain a little on the long side and stock length works but is short. I believe 3 teeth up on the rear and 2 additional lengths would fit well. On my next change I'm going 3 teeth instead of 2.

If you want to play around with tire size and sprocket size, this site lets you see the differences. Gearing Commander: Motorcycle Speed, RPM, Chain & Sprockets Calculator

 

[Deleted member 1183]

I always replace both sprockets with a new chain. With regard to the countershaft sprocket I only use OEM Honda items because some aftermarket items have been known to wear the countershaft splines prematurely. This issue is not just confined to NC's but also some other models of Honda.

 

[Beemerphile]

Just to see, I tried to mount a 45 tooth rear with a standard chain length and it's too tight.

I did give you a longer VX2 chain though, didn't I?

Lee

 

[670cc]

I did give you a longer VX2 chain though, didn't I?

Lee

Well, you sold me one.

I was curious if I could get the remaining life out of the existing chain, while still mounting the 45 tooth now since I had the wheel off for a Shinko 705 install. It was a no go.

 

[Ponyperformance8]

Thanks guys, lots of help. I am a newb when it comes to moto maintenance and this will be my first chain !

 

[Gigs]

Don't buy the JT kit. I did that and got 10k out of the chain before it was wasted. It's noisier than the DID which I consistently get 15-16k out of. I hated that chain so much. I will only use DID from on. I'm on my 3rd DID chain. My bike has 45k miles on it. I commute 50+ miles everyday, year round. Trust me don't get JT chain you'll be sad.


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[Nofear2trek]

Don't buy the JT kit. Trust me don't get JT chain you'll be sad.

Plus +1 on how JT chains stretch faster than rubber bands! I do use JT sprockets without worry, along with D.I.D ZVM-X Super Street Series Chains.
Ray

 

[OneGun]

Do the aftermarkets cost a good deal less than the OEM? If not, I'd get a Honda chain/sprocket. I'm a bit of a stickler for some parts when it comes to replacing with OEM. Obviously, I'm okay bolting on some aftermarket farkles, but when it comes to oil, oil filter, air filter, brake pads, I stick with OEM. Even on my cars/trucks/4-wheelers (Hondas), it just gives me peace of mind. I trust Honda to make good parts that don't leave me stranded.

 

[670cc]

Do the aftermarkets cost a good deal less than the OEM? If not, I'd get a Honda chain/sprocket. I'm a bit of a stickler for some parts when it comes to replacing with OEM. Obviously, I'm okay bolting on some aftermarket farkles, but when it comes to oil, oil filter, air filter, brake pads, I stick with OEM. Even on my cars/trucks/4-wheelers (Hondas), it just gives me peace of mind. I trust Honda to make good parts that don't leave me stranded.

The OEM chain on the NC700X lists for about $175 in the US, and is a lower quality chain than what you can buy for half that price aftermarket. Honda doesn't build chains, but like with tires, they're going to use supplier parts to build the bike to meet a certain price point. You can buy better aftermarket parts from the same suppliers, and often at less cost than what the Honda parts department will charge.

 

[AsureDawn]

The replacement chains listed in the 2012 service manual are RK or DID (~$65 on Amazon) o-ring chains, fwiw.

 

[EMFL]

I have adhered to the practice of changing out the front sprocket every ~10K miles, and then swap out the chain and both sprockets the next 10-15K miles. The reasoning is that the front sprocket turns about 10X faster than the rear sprocket, and it wears out much faster causing the chain to wear quicker. By swapping out the front sprocket, the life of the chain is extended. I have never tested this out, but it has been my practice. Typical life of the chains on the bikes I have owned is 20-25K using this maintenance practice. I have had good luck with various sprockets manufactures (do keep in mind I am only going a max of 15K on a front sprocket), go with a common brand thinking you should be fine.

 

[PortlandZinMan]

I have spent 30 minutes going through the noise that is the chain/sprocket discussion in about 100 threads. Since this is the latest thread, can someone post links to the exact STOCK SIZE chain and sprocket set that I need? While the bike is only at 8500 miles, I want to pre-order this so I have it on hand. I lean more toward quality than price... Since I have no idea how the bike was maintain for the first 7000 miles, I plan on replacing them at 10K so I can start my own clock.

 

[kumatae]

I have spent 30 minutes going through the noise that is the chain/sprocket discussion in about 100 threads. Since this is the latest thread, can someone post links to the exact STOCK SIZE chain and sprocket set that I need? While the bike is only at 8500 miles, I want to pre-order this so I have it on hand. I lean more toward quality than price... Since I have no idea how the bike was maintain for the first 7000 miles, I plan on replacing them at 10K so I can start my own clock.

Off topic, Does that mean you already did a valve adjustment since first one is recommended at 8000 miles?


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