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Beginner just test rode 3 bikes today, turning questions on the NC

Regarding tire pressure, I usually run 35-36 in front and back. No real reason to run 42 psi in the rear unless you are riding 2 up with loads of luggage. Just my opinion, nothing more.

When running solo on my other bikes I'll run +2 front and -2 rear ie" 38 F and 40 R for a bike that calls for 36/42. I feel the +2 in the front seems to help with preventing dishing/scalloping/cupping, and the -2 rear makes the ride a little softer. I'll bump the rear 2# for a passenger or a lot of luggage. At least that's my thinking on it.

On another note, your preferred tire pressure is really only as good as the accuracy of your tire gauge. Unless you have your tire gauge calibrated on occasion it could be a couple of pounds off either way. I use a digital tire gauge (that will add or bleed air depending on how far the lever is squeezed) but it measures 2# different than my brother's same model digital tire gauge...both supposedly guaranteed accurate within 1/4 pound of pressure lol

BTW the sticker on my truck calls for 32# but the guys at the tire shop I go to always put in 35# when I have them rotated lol.
 
When I first took my NC for a test ride, going around corners needed a lot of input from me as the handlebars felt heavy.
I even confronted the seller about this and he could not give me a satisfactory explanation.
I managed to even negotiate a price drop due to this as I was convinced the steering head bearings were worn.
When I got home with the bike I discovered that the pressure of both tyres were very low....I inflated to the correct pressures and the bike handled perfectly.
 
Do you find you eat through tires a little faster? Lower pressures are usually associated with earlier wear (but give a more comfortable ride).
I never run anything above those pressures, so I have no other data to compare it to in terms of mileage per set. I ride twisties hard, grip has always been more important than longevity to me. 35/35 is a good street pressure for aggressive riding and still be plenty enough air for tire longevity, in my opinion. But others' results may vary. 42 just sounds like a lot in the rear tire. I have an 850 lb Kawi Vulcan Nomad 1600 bagger I ride on long trips, Avon Cobra tires, and run around 38/38 or 39/39 pressures in it. Even loaded down with luggage and my fiance on the back. Still get 10-11k miles out of the Avon Cobras running those pressures, on a much heavier bike than the NC.

My other NC (track bike) runs 24 in rear and 30 in front, but that's a bit of a different application. I am running the Michelin Power Cup Evos on it. Michelin's track pressure chart says to run the rear at 22 cold, but most bikes that run those tires weigh a good 100-150 lbs less than the DCT NC, so I upped it a couple psi cold pressure for a little extra stability out of the gate.
 
Rode professionally, 10 hours a day for years. Got to know what a pound and a half difference felt like. Usually ran a couple pounds high because of all the low speed maneuvering while in an urban environment...liked the crisp(er) handling it added with a mostly heavily loaded motor. These days (retired) I can confidently say it's not that big a deal to me. I run at recommended pressures (Honda, not the tire). Demo ride with BMW on new bike releases and always put the pressures spot on. It's what the suspension is tuned to. I guess my point is I mostly ride to spec, with small changes for specific missions. I'm just not that great a rider to worry about small changes. Luckily I am good enough to just "ride to" most bikes characteristics. I know that sounds super arrogant, but adjusting to different bikes and specs makes you a better rider in general. Be safe and just go ride, Sparkynuts.
 
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36 / 42 is recommended.
I like how the bike handles with the Michelin pilot road. I wore out two sets of 4s. Now on the newer 5, which is designed slightly differently but I still like it. (The “5” actually is not called “pilot” but I can’t break myself of calling it that.)
To the OP I would say this a mild, easy to ride bike, with some speed when you need it. I think it would fit your needs well.
 
So many things make a difference. I currently have two motorcycles, if I go directly from one to the other, I can hardly ride whichever bike was second. I once had a 750 Honda Nighthawk and a DR650. If I went from the DR to the nighthawk, I would almost crash the Nighthawk.
 
So many things make a difference. I currently have two motorcycles, if I go directly from one to the other, I can hardly ride whichever bike was second. I once had a 750 Honda Nighthawk and a DR650. If I went from the DR to the nighthawk, I would almost crash the Nighthawk.
Not to brag, but once I have had a bike for awhile, the nature of it becomes burned into my brain. I switch from bicycle to 50cc scooter to 250cc scooter to 250cc dual sport to NC700X to 1832cc Goldwing with a passenger and never have any problem adjusting to the differences. About half the bikes are automatic, half are manual. I‘ll pick up a new Zero electric bike soon, which will be a totally new animal, and I don’t expect any problems adding it to the mix. Maybe because I ride them all often, I don’t forget how each one operates.

One thing I did do is switch all my bicycle brake controls so the front brake lever is on the right, like motorcycles. That way the front brake controls are consistent on all two wheelers.
 
Not to brag, but once I have had a bike for awhile, the nature of it becomes burned into my brain. I switch from bicycle to 50cc scooter to 250cc scooter to 250cc dual sport to NC700X to 1832cc Goldwing with a passenger and never have any problem adjusting to the differences. Half the bikes are automatic, half are manual. I‘ll pick up a new Zero electric bike soon, which will be a totally new animal, and I don’t expect any problems adding it to the mix. Maybe because I ride them all often, I don’t forget how each one operates.
This is my experience as well but I have noticed than if I don’t ride a clutched bike for a couple of weeks I notice I lose some polish on the shifting. Rev matching mostly, finesse skills. I don’t forget how to shift of course, just the 1 or 2% stuff.
 
When I go from my DRZ to my NC I feel weird for about a block. The difference is sitting-on or sitting-in, and throttle response. Not much changes.

On my C50 Boulevard it is just a different way to sit. I like moving from one bike to another, it keeps me sharper. Can't be as lazy in terms of attentiveness
 
Howdy-
I'm still a beginner with a Kawasaki Super Sherpa 250. Basically a dirtbike with blinkers. I have only put roughly 1k miles on in about 5 years but looking to get a more hwy friendly bike and ride more.
Last year I was dead set on upgrading to a Kawasaki Versys 300x ABS but Covid happened and the only local dealer with an ABS one for sale refused to allow test rides.
Now its spring and came across the NC line with the Frunk giving it an edge over the Kawasaki since I used a Yamaha Zuma for many years prior and loved the under seat storage.
Today I test rode a non ABS Kawasaki Versys 300x, a 2017 NC750x Manual and a 2014 NC700x DCT in that order.
I loved the ergonomics, smooth shifting, light clutch lever pull and maneuverability of the Versys thinking it was the bike for me once I found an ABS model.
I rode the NC750x manual next. WOW it had some get up and go compared to anything I've ridden, but the aftermarket seat fit crappy, plastics were rattly, clutch pull was 5x harder than the Versys, shifting was clunky and front brake was dragging or something was grinding in the front. I noticed I had to put significant effort into the handlebars in the opposite direction of the turn while doing some figure 8's at low speed in a parking lot. It didn't matter which way I was turning but the wheel wanted to dive into the turn if I didn't hold it back. My Sherpa doesn't do that and neither did the Versys.
Lastly I took the NC700x DCT for a ride. The automatic was amazing especially in S mode. It was obviously better taken care of and only had 2600 miles on it. It still had the same exact manners when doing sharp slow speed turns diving into the turn unless held back strongly.
My questions are- Are all NC like this? I assume so after both of them today doing this.
Can anyone explain why they do this while the other two bikes I rode did not?
I looked up specs of the bikes and Trail of both the Versys and NC700, NC750x is 4.3" Sherpa 4.2"
The differences I found are- my Sherpa Rake 28*, Versys 24.3* to NC 27* , Front tire size- Sherpa 21" Versys 19", NC 17".
At first I thought the Rake angle may be the issue, but after looking up my Sherpa and seeing its the opposite end of the Versys that turns the same I'm wondering if it is solely based on the smaller diameter front tire.
Any input or ideas? I am strongly leaning towards a new 2021 NC750x DCT because of the frunk and automatic but wondering if there's any way to lessen the opposite handlebar pressure when turning. I have a feeling this may cause me an accident someday where my current bike floats and seems more nimble in any type of turns with no effort the same as the Versys was as well.
I don't find this handling issue you mentioned. I ride a lot of mountain back roads and love the handling. I have a 2014 manual shift. It's my second bike, first is a 1999 Honda Valkyrie Tourer which doesn't get nearly the mpg as the 700.
 
As noted, tire pressure can make a huge difference in handling “feel”. Also, a 17” will feel a Lot different than a 21”. If you’ve only ridden 1 k miles in 5 yrs that’s not much riding (I went 200 TODAY after we got home from church). Riding skills will atrophy if you’re not using them. I sincerely believe you need to put a minimum of 3-4 k a year on a bike just to keep your skills where they should be. Get out on your current bike and ride it, get some current miles under your belt and you may find the difference are not as extreme as they feel at the moment. I’ve found the NC to be quite stable and handling to be nice and moderately light. My two Bikes I sold recently were a GL 1800 Wing and a Triumph Tiger XRX-both a good bit heavier than the NC.
 
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