Amplink PDM60

hansonb4

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Installed an Amplink PDM60 on my bike to help control power. The idea is that when you turn the key, you can have all of your electronic goodies turn on a few seconds later, so all of the battery amps go towards starting the bike, as well as ensuring that all power is shut off when you turn the bike off. I have a cigarette lighter outlet insight the frunk installed, as well as one in the black plastic piece just to the right of the frunk, underneath my handlebars so I can power by GPS/phone, while safely charging GoPro/Insta360X batteries or even my phone if it is raining and I have my phone in the frunk.

Anyway, it uses bluetooth and you configure the power via an app on your phone: set it and then forget it. I have the trigger specified as ignition, a 5 second delay, maximum amps to each port set to 10 amps. When I hit the "test" toggle switch, the ports go hot; I've plugged in USB adaptors into the cigarette lighter outlets and I can see the LED lights on both light up. Therefore amplink understands that there is something on ports 4 & 5 and will successfully send power for the test. However, once I toggle the test switch off and start the bike, power is never sent to the ports. I've made sure I didn't instead chose 5 minute delay instead of 5 seconds, I've ridden for 20 minutes on the bike and power is never sent. Anyone have the same experience? Frustrating because I leave for a 6 day trip in a few days and I have no power at this point.
 

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Fuzzy

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I have a PDM 60 on my Versys. It is great. I recommend reprograming the amps for each circuit as appropriate for the load. It functions as an electronic fuse that never needs to be replaced and protects equipment. Simply switching bike power off resets fuse. It allows leaving other fuses out of circuit and simplifies troubleshooting and repair.
 

Fuzzy

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I think the “Amplink PDM” and “PDM 60” are two separate products from Rowe Electronics with the Amplink being the higher end product with blue tooth setup and $51 premium on Revzilla. I have the lower end PDM 60 with usb from computer setup. I have never hooked up to computer as the preset amperage worked for me. Each lead default set to different amp load and picked lead accordingly for what I was connecting. Low 5 amps for usb plug and high 15 amps for heated gear for example. Default set is 10 second delay I am happy with.

I highly recommend either one as option to a fuse block.
 

hansonb4

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Thanks guys. I appreciate the feedback. I just wish the darn thing would work. The test toggle feature works, but not the rule that I have set. I have Trigger 1 set to the engine current and the rule as when T1 is active, have either circuit set to 5 amps, 5 seconds after start. It just won't activate when I turn the bike on, only the test toggle does. I am planning on calling Rowe Electronics today for help. Seems simple, I don't understand why it won't work
 

hansonb4

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So to finish this thread, the knucklehead at Maxim Honda in Allen, TX in the service bay doesn't know how to read directions at all. Instead of connecting the red main lead to the positive battery terminal, he connected it to the fuse slots. Then he connected the T-1 switch to a non fully-active circuit. This is on top of the same guy messing up the Denali D4s and told me that "you can't connect the Denalis to your headlight beam and have the Denalis toggle High - Low every time you select the High or Low beam. I took the bike to Freedom Powersports Fort Worth and Sean easily fixed both issues, this is after he installed my cigarette lighter adapters. Super easy-going guy who knew nothing about the Amplink and got it going in less than 30 minutes. EXCELLENT SERVICE
 
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