Last Sunday I did a driver training, the VRO1 which is typically the first one to take after getting your drivers license. It was on the RDW testtrack, so the track of the Netherlands Vehicle Authority. In my group I was actually the one who had his drivers license the shortest (I got it last May 16th) and most had it for years if not decades. Several drivers redo this same training every few years. So I was surprised to see I had least issues with the slow speed tech stuff, though obviously the NC750X is inherently easy to drive compared to the racer and the big all-roads. Though obviously those others were quicker to accelerate.
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It was good to get to know the bike a bit better on a closed track and learn what it is capable of. Here rolling over an old tire.
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As you could see in the back of the previous picture, the track has a big oval for endurance testing. Nearly two decades ago we went there to test a self-built solar racing car for a race in Australia but they also use it for testing big trucks. In the upper loop you can basically stay perpendicular to the tarmac if you drive 120km/h. I don't think I was going much faster here but as you can see by the blinkers, I'm tilting the bike to shift to a lower lane. It was fun to drive up there though but I now also realize why the suspension felt so harsh. Obviously when pulling about 2G (which you have when tilted 60deg in a horizontal turn) the entire suspension is deeper in the travel where everything is stiffer.
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The discussion is probably for a different place. As a mountainbiker, I prefer to tilt the bike deeper in the corner and keep my body more upright. Obviously mountainbike tires are designed to have better cornering grip when tilted by using a softer compound, different siping and taller knobbies. Obviously knobbies don't make sense on the road as they won't deform the tarmac, but the siping and the different compounds still apply. At least on my tires (Dunlop Mutant). However, other drivers and the instructor commented that it would be better to stay more centered over the bike (so to move along with the bike and not tilt the bike this deep) as the center has better cornering grip than the off-center, according to them. I was a little baffled as it seems odd for me for a tire manufacturer to design a tire as such. If this were true, by the point you'd be tapping into this region of the tire patch with their recommended technique, you'd actually be requesting more cornering grip than I need here. So the other way around, if one wouldn't slide out using their technique you most definitely wouldn't using mine. Unless you tip it over the edge of the tire tread. But by then I'd already be warned by my foot rubbing the tar. My other reason to corner like this is that I feel it is much easier to correct my path if needed.
But yeah it was fun. I don't expect I'll redo VRO1 as I didn't have any trouble with any of the exercises but luckily there is still more than enough to learn. There is a VRO2, there is a VRO for cornering, danger recognition in traffic, practice on the race track, off-road... In november I'll do a series of technical trainings (so wrenching on motorbikes) and I expect the next workshop I'll do will be a trials workshop somewhere this fall or winter. Won't be on this bike obviously (nor will the wrenching workshop be) but I'm happy to learn how easy my bike was to handle in the precise stuff in general.