On the 2012 & 2015 I recall only having to remove the right side body work (seat cowl) under the right hand grab rail, then one or two fasteners at the rear edge of the side cowl so I could pull the side cowl out enough to get to the lower shock bolt. I think the service manual detailed removal of more pieces but not necessary.Washed mine. Then I started poking around the bodywork with a view to commencing work to replace the shock. I started to get depressed at the work involved and gave up for another day. I hate this bloody bike sometimes
Generally good advice for all seasons
However with this thing its a much more complicated affair. My relationship with this bike is a true Love/hate affair. I love riding it but like most owners who work on their own bikes I absolutely hate working on it. The designers should be forced to service one at least once in their careers 
I absolutely hate working on it. The designers should be forced to service one at least once in their careers
I know electronics is not the same as motorcycles. I used to work at a major automotive electronics supplier. They 'strongly encouraged' the design engineers to work in manufacturing for 1-3 years so they would understand the impact of their design. It changed the way many of them thought and went about their work.
How does switching work?
How do these switch on/off? Is everything included in the kit or are there other accessories needed?Not sure what Rabbit did, but I have the Denali DRL lights on 2 bikes. Fork mounted. Love them. Attention getting but not blinding. Wide beam spread is visible from the SIDE and the FRONT of the bike and all angles in between. Don't really light the roadway, they are designed so you are seen.
Mine are wired right into the ignition so when the bike is on the lights are on.
Same for me. I installed the Honda sub harness and some connectors put it all together.
My 2013 has Denali 2.0 conspicuity lights installed by a previous owner. They were wired without a switch with the relay triggered by the high beam positive so every time the headlight was on high beam the Denali lights were on. This was unacceptable to me so almost immediately I rewired it so the auxiliary light relay had switched power directly from the OEM fuse block and I could turn the lights on and off independent of the headlight with a separate switch mounted above the right hand switch pod on the handlebar.
![IMG_7802[3132].JPG](https://www.nc700-forum.com/data/attachments/38/38630-90463b623c2cfb325dfdec0e27758c9b.jpg?hash=kEY7Yjws-z "IMG_7802[3132].JPG")
Yup. Tolerable in pictures and clear plastic half-oval bubbles with water and scale models of The Magic Kingdom or Micky Mouse. Beyond that, intolerable.
These are a few years old now, but fairly common a few times per winter. In the photo taken from the end of the driveway, I'm standing across the street. The blade of the shovel is sitting on the ground in line with the end of the driveway, I would estimate the depth to be about 2 and a half feet of snow. There is about three times the amount of snow on the road between the plow cut and the end of the driveway than there is between the end of the driveway and the back of the cars. All told, probably 13 feet from the car to the plow cut. This all accumulated in one night. Needless to say, I was late to work that morning, where I had to move over 200 cubic foot of snow to get out.
