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2021 NC750x overview. Lower weight, new plastic, new dash display

Bikemiser: if you punch Kaoko Throttle lock into Search a lot of retailers should pop-up. I seem to recall it was in the $120-$150 dollar range.
 
I switched from GoCruise, which I found lacking, to an Atlas throttle lock. Much better IMO and yes, more expensive but also worth the price.
I thought your dissatisfaction with the Go Cruise was related to physical disability in that arthritis didn't allow you to press down with the forefinger. At least that was the stated reason.
 
where do you get a Kaoko throttle lock?

I got mine from Twisted Throttle. 2013 NC700X, but should fit any NC. Pretty fast shipping. They are expensive, but fantastic. The price was more or less the same everywhere I looked.


Works with or without hand guards, but you may need a longer partial thread bolt to get the hand guard to screw on.

I went with this M6-1.0 x 95mm PT:

 
I also looked at the Kaoko throttle locks.

I opted for the Atlas, which is a different operating style, because it locks with simple pressure from your thumb, unlocks the same way. Regardless of whether someone uses a Kaoko, Atlas or a GoCruise, all of them are just a different way to accomplish the same thing ... hold a reasonably steady speed on flat ground. I found the GoCruise lacking because I ride so little flat ground so it required an awkward finger stretch to continue reengage. It seemed like I was constantly riding with my finger laying on top of it because I had to continue to adjust it. Atlas just holds wherever I micro adjust the throttle as I over-ride it and feel much more natural to use, no need to do finger exercises before hopping on the bike. I could not find someone who personally owned a Kaoko, but I've seen lots of positive reviews, I was just not comfortable buying it without a personal testimonial.

I thought your dissatisfaction with the Go Cruise was related to physical disability in that arthritis didn't allow you to press down with the forefinger. At least that was the stated reason.
For my arthritic hand it was very awkward and a bit painful to operate as it is supposed to be used.

That said, I think its a poor design and if my hands were as flexible as someone a bit healthier there is still no way that I'd think that is a good design. It's cheap. I'll give it that. It works in a very basic way. But I don't think it works well, even as intended.
 
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A question from someone who was never good at math. The frunk size has been increased from 22L to 23L. I have a 2020. I've bought a 2L bottle of soda in my life time and there is no way you could fit 10, 2L bottles of soda, let alone 9, 8, 7, 6 or 5. Maybe 4. My remedial math skills tells me that would be 8L. Granted, there would be additional space around the 2L bottles, but how are they calculating 23L? That just doesn't seem possible.

Using my workman's point of view, I know I can easily hold two six-packs of beer with room to spare for chips and dip.

Hansonb4 / Bob

It's cubic liters, and counts the cupped out underside of the lid, as you can stuff gear like gloves, jacket, etc in the frunk and have it mounding over and the lid will still close over it. If you could seal off the trunk, drill a hole in the top dead center of the frunk lid, you could pour in 21-23 liters of liquid before it started running out of the hole you are pouring into.
 
I also looked at the Kaoko throttle locks.

I opted for the Atlas, which is a different operating style, because it locks with simple pressure from your thumb, unlocks the same way. Regardless of whether someone uses a Kaoko, Atlas or a GoCruise, all of them are just a different way to accomplish the same thing ... hold a reasonably steady speed on flat ground. I found the GoCruise lacking because I ride so little flat ground so it required an awkward finger stretch to continue reengage. It seemed like I was constantly riding with my finger laying on top of it because I had to continue to adjust it. Atlas just holds wherever I micro adjust the throttle as I over-ride it and feel much more natural to use, no need to do finger exercises before hopping on the bike. I could not find someone who personally owned a Kaoko, but I've seen lots of positive reviews, I was just not comfortable buying it without a personal testimonial.


For my arthritic hand it was very awkward and a bit painful to operate as it is supposed to be used.

That said, I think its a poor design and if my hands were as flexible as someone a bit healthier there is still no way that I'd think that is a good design. It's cheap. I'll give it that. It works in a very basic way. But I don't think it works well, even as intended.
Suppose we will leave it at this disagreement. Your description of how to use these devices clearly shows no one ever showed you how brilliant the Go Cruise is for the task of holding speed over varying terrain. It doesn't require as much micro adjustment as a friction lock but it does require understanding how to use it.

I learned that using a friction lock like the Krako, Atlas, Vista Cruise, etc was half the result with twice the work as using the simple cheap Go Cruise.
 
Suppose we will leave it at this disagreement. Your description of how to use these devices clearly shows no one ever showed you how brilliant the Go Cruise is for the task of holding speed over varying terrain. It doesn't require as much micro adjustment as a friction lock but it does require understanding how to use it.

I learned that using a friction lock like the Krako, Atlas, Vista Cruise, etc was half the result with twice the work as using the simple cheap Go Cruise.
Actually I had someone show me, and it just doesn't seem natural.

But yes, agree to disagree.

And as I said these are all just different methods to achieve a similar goal. Some work for some, not for others. That is why there are options.
 
Atlas, Kaoko, Go Cruise ... they are all just throttle locks (higher tech versions of a brick wedged on the accelerator pedal of your '68 Pontiac Catalina ;) ). I use the cheap, plastic Go Cruise (the basic version) and it gets the basic job done. None "control speed," they just hold the throttle in a position (and all must be adjusted as terrain changes).

I assume Honda will look at cruise control now that they have throttle by wire on the NC ... when they'll do that is anybody's guess. It seems they are really focused on the Wing and AT for all the tech goodies.
 
I would be a little concerned about the throttle by wire. I say that only because of the experience I have with it on my VFR1200X. It is a little snatchy. Early iterations across the pond were characterized regularly as "unsafe." I can understand that perspective but disagree that it is unsafe, at least on a 2016, except at low speeds. But, I attribute that to the weight of the bike, the nature of slow speed maneuvers, combined with the snatchy throttle. I don't know that I would feel the same way about it on the NC750X. Others complained about sudden acceleration when hitting a square edge bump at highway speeds. I never experienced that but I have aftermarket suspension. On the VFR, Honda actuates the electronic throttle with a cable (some say to retain the traditional feel). Removing all of the slack on the "throttle cable", then a soft reset on the ECU, substantially mitigates the issues that I have with it. Anyhow, still considering adding one to the stable...I still regret selling my NC almost every day.
 
Proof will be in the riding of the new bike. Many bikes are ride by wire now with no problems with off-idle response so it's not a universal characteristic of RBW. Some early fuel injected bikes in the early 2000s had snatchy throttles as the injectors coped with off-idle response with varying degrees of effectiveness. The ST1300 was one and it rewarded a smooth hand or infuriated or embarrassed riders that couldn't rewire their right wrist to brain connections with sufficient saddle time. There were modifications like the G2 Throttle Tamer eccentric or an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator that helped speed the learning curve.
 
Proof will be in the riding of the new bike. Many bikes are ride by wire now with no problems with off-idle response so it's not a universal characteristic of RBW. Some early fuel injected bikes in the early 2000s had snatchy throttles as the injectors coped with off-idle response with varying degrees of effectiveness. The ST1300 was one and it rewarded a smooth hand or infuriated or embarrassed riders that couldn't rewire their right wrist to brain connections with sufficient saddle time. There were modifications like the G2 Throttle Tamer eccentric or an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator that helped speed the learning curve.

Agreed that riding the 2021 will be the test for each rider. The NC is so much lighter, less horsepower, etc., so it might not have the same negatives as the RBW on the VFR. Your point about a learning curve is spot on and was the approach that I took (master the bike or it masters me) in combination with minor adjustments mentioned earlier. Others never became satisfied with Honda's RBW solution. Old habits do die hard, I guess.
 
I have a question. It's about suspension, which I think is a dark art. Is there any logical reason for Honda to have reduced the suspension travel on the 2021 NC750 (.7" F and 1.2" R)? I think that I understand part of it, but not sure...is the shorter suspension travel better "suited" for asphalt than the longer travel suspension in the previous years? The suspension was one of the few things that I did not care for on the 2016. Would the shorter travel suspension make the suspension harsher all other things being equal? Anyhow, appreciate any input.
 
My guess is that suspension travel was reduced to lower seat height. The reduced travel would put the 2021 model's suspension travel close to the old NC700S which never came to the states. If most of your riding is on-road, I don't think the shorter travel would be noticable. Riding at speed off-road (on a single track) is often dependent on the tires so with dual-sport tires you'd clearly be going much slower than if you had full knobbies...and hitting the bumps at a reduced pace.

Once the 2021 model is available, I'm sure the suspension vendors will come up with "long travel kits." :)

ps. no use getting excited about the 2021 NC until we know it'll be coming here.
 
I'm not a big fan of the aggressive redesign, but not including cruise control on a hyper-commuter and light touring bike is a real bazooper. There are huge stretches of boring highway and freeway which don't need to fatigue my wrist on long rides.
 
Did you get the top or bottom kit?
Only the bottom mount fits. In fact the top mount only fits a few bikes, the bottom is almost universal

A64820-DD-A605-4-A74-B438-7-E77-BE5120-F6.jpg
 
Only the bottom mount fits. In fact the top mount only fits a few bikes, the bottom is almost universal

A64820-DD-A605-4-A74-B438-7-E77-BE5120-F6.jpg

Looks like you've got Grip Puppies over the stock grips.
Any fitment issues with Grip Puppies and the Atlas?
From your photos it seems there shouldn't be.
 
Looks like you've got Grip Puppies over the stock grips.
Any fitment issues with Grip Puppies and the Atlas?
From your photos it seems there shouldn't be.
No issues with fitting. The grip puppies are on the grip. The Atlas is between the grip and the switch collar. The Atlas does not clamp onto the grip. It is next to the grip.
 
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