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2021 NC750X DCT will not start, not going into neutral

Lee_0123

Lee_0123

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Went for a ride earlier this wek and the bike ran fine.
Went out this morning and the bike won't start because the bike is not in neutral.
Changed from "D" to "N" several times with no luck.
Turned the bike on and off several times, no luck.
Flipped the sidestand several times, no luck.
Disconnected the battery waited a minute, reconnected and checked battery terminations. No luck.
Read Wedders' thread on his problems, still won't start.

Stay tuned.
 
Move the bike forward and backward. Try to start with the brake engaged.
These steps are recommended by Honda to do first.
 
Hello Dave,
Battery is at 10.3V see attached picture. Both terminations are tight. Note the gear indicator shows the bike in first gear. Default after the bike has been shut off is to be in neutral displayed as an "N". The picture was taken after disconnecting the battery with the bike on the sidestand.

Lootzyan
I tried rocking the bike but with the DCT there is no resistance in the drive train. The bike will not change from manual to drive, and the finger shifters on the left grip are unresponsive.

The last work done on the bike was about 2000 miles ago for the 8000 mile service. Since then the only work has been routne cleaning and oiling of the chain. I'm reading through the service manual now.

Thanks for the support.
Lee B
 

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A 10.3 volt battery is likely insufficient to operate the transmission, but also possibly has a shorted cell or is already ruined from severe discharge. Verify voltage right at the battery terminals. If good voltage is seen at the battery, clean and tighten connections. If voltage reads 10.3 volts right at the battery terminals, replace the battery.
 
670cc said:
A 10.3 volt battery is likely insufficient to operate the transmission, but also possibly has a shorted cell or is already ruined from severe discharge. Verify voltage right at the battery terminals. If good voltage is seen at the battery, clean and tighten connections. If voltage reads 10.3 volts right at the battery terminals, replace the battery.
Click to expand...

Terminations are clean and tight, I will check the actual voltage as soon as I get back home. Thanks for the feedback.
 
Lee_0123 said:
...I generally roll into the drive way and stop forward progress. Then shut down the bike by hitting the kill switch or putting the sidestand down.
Click to expand...
I advise you to change your habits and switch to neutral before turning off the engine.
Think of it this way. It is not your fault. This is a nasty Honda design flaw, and you have no choice but to adapt to it.
In 10 years, Honda has done nothing to fix it.
 
Rechecked the terminations and all are tight and clean.
Verified voltage at the battery as being 10.8V with a multimeter vs 10.3V this morning.
Hooked up the motorcycle battery charger and we will see what happens in the morning.
Then start checking out what might be wrong with the charging system.

Only modifications to the electrical system are:
Trickle charger leads at the battery installed by the dealer who sold the bike, installed Sept. 2021
Connections to battery for my Garmin Zumo XT. I believe Garmin has a low voltage cutout and a timer that shuts it off if the bike hasn't moved in awhile. Need to verify Garmin's cutout voltage setting and if it has a shutdown timer, installed Sept. 2021
Oxford Heated grips installed by the dealer when doing the recall work for the ECU, installed Jan. 2022
Honda OEM USB port that plugged into the OEM power source, installed Feb. 2022
 
Last edited:
FYI my gauge in the dash reads either 12.5V to 12.6V when the key is turned on and 14.2V to 14.6V when running

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An open circuit 12.00 volt reading of a lead acid battery shows the battery is essentially dead. 12.8 v depending on temperature is fully charged. You can imagine how dead 10.3 volts is. Not enough to run anything, won't shift to N, won't spin up fuel pressure.

Something must be drawing power when the key is OFF and the bike is parked. In my mind it's not likely the charging system is at fault but any modifications to stock wiring would be suspect.
 
dduelin said:
An open circuit 12.00 volt reading of a lead acid battery shows the battery is essentially dead. 12.8 v depending on temperature is fully charged. You can imagine how dead 10.3 volts is. Not enough to run anything, won't shift to N, won't spin up fuel pressure.

Something must be drawing power when the key is OFF and the bike is parked. In my mind it's not likely the charging system is at fault but any modifications to stock wiring would be suspect.
Click to expand...
I'm inclined to agree that the add on electrical is the first place to start looking. I'll pull the body panels off today and see if there are any pinched wires that are abraided.

Thanks for the help.
 
A tracker added to my X-Adv draws current and can bring voltage too low after a week or two lying up.
 
Lee_0123 said:
Went for a ride earlier this wek and the bike ran fine.
Went out this morning and the bike won't start because the bike is not in neutral.
Changed from "D" to "N" several times with no luck.
Turned the bike on and off several times, no luck.
Flipped the sidestand several times, no luck.
Disconnected the battery waited a minute, reconnected and checked battery terminations. No luck.
Read Wedders' thread on his problems, still won't start.

Stay tuned.
Click to expand...
I've had this happen twice, both times I accidentally hit the Killswitch while moving. It will get stuck in gear in that scenario. I never use it to turn the bike off, just stop and turn the key, then it's in neutral. You'll have to roll it backwards with the key on and it will go back into neutral after about 4-5 feet
 
The Mayor said:
I've had this happen twice, both times I accidentally hit the Killswitch while moving. It will get stuck in gear in that scenario. I never use it to turn the bike off, just stop and turn the key, then it's in neutral. You'll have to roll it backwards with the key on and it will go back into neutral after about 4-5 feet
Click to expand...
Just out of curiosity, why wouldn't you just hit the button for neutral, taking it out of drive, before turning off the key?
 
the Ferret said:
...why wouldn't you just hit the button for neutral...
Click to expand...
You cannot switch to neutral while moving... but you can switch the killswitch back to the "run" position while moving, before the engine RPM drops below around 1800 (maybe less), the engine restarts, and DCT functions normally.
 
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