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2018 NC750X Stiff Chain Links

Another idea I had was to cut out the offending link and replace with a master link (either a rivet or clip-type). Thoughts?
Worth a try if the chain isn't excessively worn, which you state it isn't.

If it were my NC however, I would replace the chain with a quality DID X-ring 520 or similar and inspect the sprockets.
If the chain has minimal wear over 9300 miles, the sprockets should be good to continue using.
 
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Worth a try if the chain isn't excessively worn, which you state it isn't.

If it were my NC however, I would replace the chain with a quality DID X-ring 530 or similar and inspect the sprockets.
If the chain has minimal wear over 9300 miles, the sprockets should be good to continue using.
Would you also change the sprockets to fit 530 chain?

The NC750X uses a 520 pitch chain.
 
This past weekend I did the chain clean & lube routine on my 2018 NC750X, and I, too, found one very stiff link. I tried loosening it by working it back and forth, but it feels very stiff and sounds like it's galling inside. I suspect it would look inside exactly like the previously-posted pictures show. The chain seems to run smooth with no noise or clunking. My bike has 9300 miles and the chain shows no/minimal stretch. Should I replace the chain (and if so, do I need to change the sprockets), or just live with it? Another idea I had was to cut out the offending link and replace with a master link (either a rivet or clip-type). Thoughts?

Thanks!
-Jim G
The original chains just don't seem to last much beyond 8,000 miles. I would replace the chain with a new DID 520VX3 and while I was at it replace at least the counter shaft sprocket.
 
Hello all!

Bought my 2018 NC750X as a leftover in June 2020 for a good deal. Been using it as a commuter, and so far it has been working flawlessly until I hit close to the 8,000 mile mark. During the week, I noticed that my MPG kept getting worse and worse. I thought it was because of the weather since the average temperature dropped about 25 degrees from the 70s to the 50s, but then the drivetrain started to make an odd whining noise that got worse with higher speeds. I went to check my chain slack, and it was practically 0! Which is so strange considering that a week prior, I adjusted my chain slack to about 1.5 inches (about 38mm) and it was moving so freely! After rotating the wheel a couple of times and checking the chain slack, I noticed that there were kinked links in multiple areas. This must have caused the chain to lose its slack. Trying to undo the kinks was difficult and it would squeak when trying to move it. I have only put roughly 600 miles since the adjustment. From what I understand, having a faulty factory chain is a common problem for these bikes. I decided to cut one of the kinked links open to inspect the pin inside. Here's what I found:

View attachment 43936

As you can see here, this pin circled in red (still has o-ring intact) has a small wear line where the metal is shiny. I don't know if this is normal, but it's a good reference for the next pic:

View attachment 43938

This pin circled in red is the leading pin in the direction of normal rotation. Notice the excessive scoring on the pin.

Could there be a lack of lubrication causing this chain link to wear out prematurely?

As far as chain maintenance goes, I have a ScottOiler installed, and the external rollers still move just fine. Could the ScottOiler oil penetrate the o-rings and compromised the internal chain lube? I've yet to hear of this issue...

To clean my chains, I actually use a DuPont Teflon Motorcycle Chain specific lube to clean my chain. I highly doubt the DuPont Teflon lube is the cause for this since I have used it in multiple bikes for a decade with no problems, one being a gen 4 VFR that had a DID x-ring chain that lasted nearly 24K miles with no issues.

I was thinking about taking it to the dealer and having the chain replaced under warranty, but decided I'd rather buy a new x-ring chain of my choosing rather than rely on another factory replacement and risk having this happen again.

Thoughts?

Hello all!

Bought my 2018 NC750X as a leftover in June 2020 for a good deal. Been using it as a commuter, and so far it has been working flawlessly until I hit close to the 8,000 mile mark. During the week, I noticed that my MPG kept getting worse and worse. I thought it was because of the weather since the average temperature dropped about 25 degrees from the 70s to the 50s, but then the drivetrain started to make an odd whining noise that got worse with higher speeds. I went to check my chain slack, and it was practically 0! Which is so strange considering that a week prior, I adjusted my chain slack to about 1.5 inches (about 38mm) and it was moving so freely! After rotating the wheel a couple of times and checking the chain slack, I noticed that there were kinked links in multiple areas. This must have caused the chain to lose its slack. Trying to undo the kinks was difficult and it would squeak when trying to move it. I have only put roughly 600 miles since the adjustment. From what I understand, having a faulty factory chain is a common problem for these bikes. I decided to cut one of the kinked links open to inspect the pin inside. Here's what I found:

View attachment 43936

As you can see here, this pin circled in red (still has o-ring intact) has a small wear line where the metal is shiny. I don't know if this is normal, but it's a good reference for the next pic:

View attachment 43938

This pin circled in red is the leading pin in the direction of normal rotation. Notice the excessive scoring on the pin.

Could there be a lack of lubrication causing this chain link to wear out prematurely?

As far as chain maintenance goes, I have a ScottOiler installed, and the external rollers still move just fine. Could the ScottOiler oil penetrate the o-rings and compromised the internal chain lube? I've yet to hear of this issue...

To clean my chains, I actually use a DuPont Teflon Motorcycle Chain specific lube to clean my chain. I highly doubt the DuPont Teflon lube is the cause for this since I have used it in multiple bikes for a decade with no problems, one being a gen 4 VFR that had a DID x-ring chain that lasted nearly 24K miles with no issues.

I was thinking about taking it to the dealer and having the chain replaced under warranty, but decided I'd rather buy a new x-ring chain of my choosing rather than rely on another factory replacement and risk having this happen again.

Thoughts?
Just a lack of lube inside and a worn out chain. I would have tried for a warranty chain and run it for another 8k+ miles. I wouldn't spring for an oiler on a enclosed chain, just throw another o-ringed one on there and forgo the oily mess. Yes the fine oil would compromise the o-ringed chain, just go with one or the other chain types. Preferably the grease packed O-ring type.
 
I'm having good luck with an oiler and the stock chain. The o-rings or x-rings only work to retain lube in the pin and bushing (if you are lucky). The chain rollers and sprockets are in the open need to be lubed too.
 
I have almost 10,000 miles on my OEM chain. No kinks yet.
Based on all the info here, I'll order a replacement to have ready.

Are people using master links with clips or rivets? Does it matter?
 
Looking at a Honda parts finder is confusing as it lists 2 length chains, but only one part number


40540-MGS-D31
CHAIN, DRIVE (DID520V0-120ZB) (DAIDO) (STANDARD LINK 112L) (STANDARD LINK 114L)

does anyone know if it takes a 112 or a 114 link chain?

I'm approaching 11,000 miles on mine and no issues other than surface rust from winter riding, but I might as well get one in stock for when I do need it.
 
Looking at a Honda parts finder is confusing as it lists 2 length chains, but only one part number


40540-MGS-D31
CHAIN, DRIVE (DID520V0-120ZB) (DAIDO) (STANDARD LINK 112L) (STANDARD LINK 114L)

does anyone know if it takes a 112 or a 114 link chain?

I'm approaching 11,000 miles on mine and no issues other than surface rust from winter riding, but I might as well get one in stock for when I do need it.
DCT bikes take a 112 link, at least prior to 2021 models. Manual bikes 114 link. Rear sprockets are 39 and 41 IIRC
 
16/43 (MT) and 17/41 (DCT) sprockets on the 2021 NC750X. 114 link chain. See owners manual. Buy a 114 (or longer) link chain. If the book is wrong and you needed a 112, remove links. One time I found a 120 link chain for a great price, so I just removed the unnecessary links.

277E21F1-4EED-47C2-875D-9BAA36A9C025.jpeg
 
Looking at a Honda parts finder is confusing as it lists 2 length chains, but only one part number


40540-MGS-D31
CHAIN, DRIVE (DID520V0-120ZB) (DAIDO) (STANDARD LINK 112L) (STANDARD LINK 114L)

does anyone know if it takes a 112 or a 114 link chain?

I'm approaching 11,000 miles on mine and no issues other than surface rust from winter riding, but I might as well get one in stock for when I do need it.
Looking at Honda‘s chain description, it ends in 120ZB. If that description is correct, it suggests that it’s a 120 link chain. The installer can shorten it to the necessary length. That or it’s a typo in the part description.

Of course you can always go look at your own bike and count the number of chain links it has now.
 
120ZB ………..means one size chain fits many ……..when the installer sizes the chain to the needed length.


That part number fits at least 20 models over at least 12 years.
 
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