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2016 Oil, Oil Filter Change Part Numbers and Prices (incl. DCT)

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Snipped..........I have used HONDA Civic filter for 3 oilchanges. FRAM TG7317 for under $10 in any Walmart.

I take it that you are using a Fram filter that fits a Honda Civic. I do something similar by buying Honda automobile oil filters in bulk. I like the OEM Honda filters because I am sure that the bypass valve pressure and filter media is what Honda specifies. Bypass pressures vary quite a bit by manufacturer as does media efficiency.

The motorcycle filters are P/N 15410-MFJ-D01 and auto filters are 15400-PLM-A01s and A02s and fairly inexpensive in 3 or 6 packs compared to buying them individually in Honda dealers. I buy them in bulk as both Honda bikes, the CR-V, and the Miata in my garage all take the same filter. About $4 or $5 each. The auto filters are about 5/8" longer than the motorcycle filters but they do fit. There have been no changes to the NC700/750s since 2012 that affect oil filters so the 2016s are the same as 2012-2015s.

https://www.handa-accessories.com/crvmaint12.html
 
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Dave, thanks for the link for the Honda oil filters. Does the oil drain plug crush washers noted on the website, 6 for $1.31 fit the NC700xd oil drain plug?
 
Dave, thanks for the link for the Honda oil filters. Does the oil drain plug crush washers noted on the website, 6 for $1.31 fit the NC700xd oil drain plug?
Mike, I do not think they fit but I've never ordered any from H & A. The cars and some motorcycles take 14mm washers but the NC700X takes a smaller 12 mm washer. Truth be known I rarely change it - I just flip it over and reuse it as long as it's not ridged or deformed.
 
Mike, I do not think they fit but I've never ordered any from H & A. The cars and some motorcycles take 14mm washers but the NC700X takes a smaller 12 mm washer. Truth be known I rarely change it - I just flip it over and reuse it as long as it's not ridged or deformed.

This may be a stupid question but do you need a centre stand to be able to do this service properly ?

Thanks.
 
This may be a stupid question but do you need a centre stand to be able to do this service properly ?

Thanks.
too change the oil, no, a center stand is useful to break the drain plug loose, after that I don't even use the center stand. #1 Get the engine to operating temp. #2 let it sit for a few minutes as you get your supplies ready (tools and parts). #3 break the drain plug loose (I did this on the center stand but it's not necessary) but don't remove it yet (watch out for the exhaust). #4 put your motorcycle on the kickstand, set up your drain pan and remove the drain plug (you could loosen the dip stick so it drains more quickly, it's possible it picks up more debris this way but the difference would be tiny). #5 replace oil filter (filters plural if you have the DCT) make sure the old oil filter gasket/gaskets is removed, smear a light coating of oil on the new oil filter gaskets (this is so the gasket don't bunch up and get pinched oblong) replace or reuse the crush washer for the drain plug, reinstall the drain plug with crush washer. #6 refill the oil
 
too change the oil, no, a center stand is useful to break the drain plug loose, after that I don't even use the center stand. #1 Get the engine to operating temp. #2 let it sit for a few minutes as you get your supplies ready (tools and parts). #3 break the drain plug loose (I did this on the center stand but it's not necessary) but don't remove it yet (watch out for the exhaust). #4 put your motorcycle on the kickstand, set up your drain pan and remove the drain plug (you could loosen the dip stick so it drains more quickly, it's possible it picks up more debris this way but the difference would be tiny). #5 replace oil filter (filters plural if you have the DCT) make sure the old oil filter gasket/gaskets is removed, smear a light coating of oil on the new oil filter gaskets (this is so the gasket don't bunch up and get pinched oblong) replace or reuse the crush washer for the drain plug, reinstall the drain plug with crush washer. #6 refill the oil

thanks for the detailed information, appreciated. I am gonna guess the 2017 NC750X is the same parts...
 
This may be a stupid question but do you need a centre stand to be able to do this service properly ?

Thanks.
Since the center stand is an option, the common service procedures are described by Honda being done as if you have no center stand. So yes, the oil change can easily be done with no center stand.
 
This may be a stupid question but do you need a centre stand to be able to do this service properly?

Nope. The drain bolt is on the left part of the sump so that it can drain better when the bike is leaning to the left on the side stand.

Another tip: Use a kitty litter box to catch the oil. It will fit under there to collect the drips from the oil filter and the sump.
(I have an automotive oil catch pan that is too tall to clear the bottom of the bike when it is leaned over.)
 
When I change the oil and filter, I refill with a bit over 3qts of oil, and then top off the oil per reading the oil level on the dipstick. I do it that way, because the amount of oil left in the engine can vary, and I use Honda automotive filters which are larger. Dipstick readings require the bike to be upright and a center stand makes this easier to do.
 
Does anyone know if the parts listed in this thread (at the beginning) will be ok for a 2017 NC750X (in Canada). thank you. my guess they will be, but it's just a guess.

Also can i use 10W-40 Motorcycle OIL? It's shared by both the ENGINE and DCT right? Can I use fully synthetic? Suggestions on a good brand? Mobil?
 
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The service manual states that 10w-40 as well as 10w-30 motorcycle oil is acceptable. The brand or choice to use synthetic is up to you. As long as it meets the specs in the Honda manual, then oil is oil. We don't suggest or debate oil brands on the forum.
 
Does anyone know if the parts listed in this thread (at the beginning) will be ok for a 2017 NC750X (in Canada). thank you. my guess they will be, but it's just a guess.

Also can i use 10W-40 Motorcycle OIL? It's shared by both the ENGINE and DCT right? Can I use fully synthetic? Suggestions on a good brand? Mobil?

Check the part numbers against the 2017 microfiche. These parts will probably work, Honda has changed almost nothing since 2012. I believe the consumables are all the same.

Check the owners manual for what oil you can and can't use. It says 10w30, but the service manual says both 10w30 or 10w40.
Synthetic if you want, just make sure it is for use in wet clutches. (Most of the oil you find on the shelf is for cars that have a separate transmission lubrication system and will not work in a motorcycle where there are higher sheer forces in the clutch and gears.)
 
Because of the wet clutch character and mildly tuned NC, tried and true GN4 oil gives me the best piece of mind. No synthetic...no fuss....no second guessing.
 
(Most of the oil you find on the shelf is for cars that have a separate transmission lubrication system and will not work in a motorcycle where there are higher sheer forces in the clutch and gears.)

It has nothing to do with sheering. It has to do with potential clutch slippage. Honda states not to use Energy Conserving oil. If the oil is marked with the following:

images.jpg

I would advise not using it. There are many oils that meet Honda's oil specifications. Even I don't think it's worth improvising outside of Honda's specs on this.
 
It has nothing to do with sheering. It has to do with potential clutch slippage. Honda states not to use Energy Conserving oil. If the oil is marked with the following:

View attachment 33124

I would advise not using it. There are many oils that meet Honda's oil specifications. Even I don't think it's worth improvising outside of Honda's specs on this.

Yup, that's the label you want to avoid, and unfortunately that's all most gas stations and auto chain stores have on the shelf.

This is a low revving, low power bike and does well on anything as long as it meets the specs called for in the manual.
 
Oil thread!

Closed.
 
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