2016 nc750x dct Check engine and cannot shift from neutral

[Sylvain]

Hi guys.
I recently had this issue with my bike:
After à 30 minutes drive, I stopped and shut down the engine for about 5 minutes.
When restarting, it started difficultly like with an almost dead battery and let the check engine light on when running. It then did not let me shift to drive, stayed in neutral i was stuck.
I shut down the engine, ignition off, restarted and it then let me shift on drive but still letting the engine check light on.
Back home after shutting down the engine, it would start ok again and the engine check light was off.
I made multiple attempts, starting/shutting down, everything was ok, no sign of battery weakness. On my tester, battery voltage shows 12.53 volts.

Any ideas and thanks for your help!

 

[Sylvain]

After check in the shop manual, it says à fully charged battery should show 13 to 13.2 volts. Below 12.4 needs charging. I suspect I need à New battery.

 

[Deleted member 1183]

Hmm. You may be right and if so then I might also have an imminent battery problem. The resting voltage on my battery currently is 12.6 according to the tracker which also utilises the battery. The starter motor occasionally sounds a little tired when turning over the engine but it always starts. I will investigate further.........

 

[ste7ios]

12.53V means that your battery can hold a little more than 50% of its named capacity. It seems to be on the weak side but it shouldn’t have problem.

The rule is that the usable capacity of a lead acid battery is 50% of its named capacity i.e. about 5.5 Ah for our 11 Ah YTZ12S battery.

In general it’s wise to replace it before reaching 40% of its named capacity (12.4V for a Yuasa or Varta AGM battery) or sooner if it can’t meet your requirements (for example you may need to feed an alarm or tracker for at least a week). On a cold day it will be very weak to start the engine.

To measure properly the battery, disconnect the battery, fully charge it overnight, disconnect it from the charger / maintainer, let it rest at least 4 hours (to absorb surface charge) then measure it with a voltmeter...

Also note that the measuring of (open circuit) voltage is only indicative of the battery status. You need a load test to estimate its status more accurate.


If you want a lead acid to be happy you have to keep always fully charged. It’s the only thing that stops sulfation. A nice battery maintainer like OptiMate can do the job easily.

The service manual proposal is more of a practical compromise than a best practice... See Yuasa’s Techical Manual to have an idea: http://www.yuasabatteries.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/TechManual.x78244.pdf

Other sources like Battery University provides more details.

 

[Deleted member 1183]

12.53V means that your battery can hold a little more than 50% of its named capacity. It seems to be on the weak side but it shouldn’t have problem.

The rule is that the usable capacity of a lead acid battery is 50% of its named capacity i.e. about 5.5 Ah for our 11 Ah YTZ12S battery.

In general it’s wise to replace it before reaching 40% of its named capacity (12.4V for a Yuasa or Varta AGM battery) or sooner if it can’t meet your requirements (for example you may need to feed an alarm or tracker for at least a week). On a cold day it will be very weak to start the engine.

To measure properly the battery, disconnect the battery, fully charge it overnight, disconnect it from the charger / maintainer, let it rest at least 4 hours (to absorb surface charge) then measure it with a voltmeter...

Also note that the measuring of (open circuit) voltage is only indicative of the battery status. You need a load test to estimate its status more accurate.


If you want a lead acid to be happy you have to keep always fully charged. It’s the only thing that stops sulfation. A nice battery maintainer like OptiMate can do the job easily.

The service manual proposal is more of a practical compromise than a best practice... See Yuasa’s Techical Manual to have an idea: http://www.yuasabatteries.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/TechManual.x78244.pdf

Other sources like Battery University provides more details.

Thanks for that. My battery is feeding a tracker also but I have noticed that the battery can be slightly weak at times on startup. Yesterday after a long weekend away on the bike the tracker showed a 12.6V resting voltage after 18 hours. Not having touched the bike now for a further day it is showing 12.5V resting. It is obviously not the healthiest.

 

[ste7ios]

Our tiny batteries never have the expected lifetime (depends on your region's climate) when such parasitic drain exists unless you replenish the lost charge with a maintainer all the time.