2" risers for the NC750X

FinnMike

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Hello fellow riders!

I know there are many of you who have installed 2" raisers. How have you tackled the problem with too short cables?
I tried to install the 2" ROX risers but failed due to the front brake cable.

Here is a short video describing the problem:
 

670cc

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When I installed 2 inch Rox risers on a manual transmission NC700X, I installed a longer, custom made front brake hose. Later on, I installed a longer clutch from a CTX700, to get better slack in the clutch cable, although that cable adds 100mm and is a bit long for the 2 inch rise. Those modifications made the 2 inch risers work fine.

Whether the brake hose from the master cylinder goes directly to the caliper or to an ABS module, I still think you could get a brake hose built any length you want with any fittings you want. Perhaps look at a Honda parts list for the CTX700 for a longer hose. The CTX bars pull back farther, thus the cables and hose are longer than on the NC.

Going beyond 2 inch rise, I installed CTX throttle cables and lengthened the electrical cables to the handlebar switches. See this thread: https://nc700-forum.com/threads/adding-bar-rise-beyond-2.16356/

(Sorry if I missed the point of your question. I have no patience for videos, so I didn’t watch much of it).
 
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FinnMike

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When I installed 2 inch Rox risers on a manual transmission NC700X, I installed a longer, custom made front brake hose. Later on, I installed a longer clutch from a CTX700, to get better slack in the clutch cable, although that cable adds 100mm and is a bit long for the 2 inch rise. Those modifications made the 2 inch risers work fine.

Whether the brake hose from the master cylinder goes directly to the caliper or to an ABS module, I still think you could get a brake hose built any length you want with any fittings you want. Perhaps look at a Honda parts list for the CTX700 for a longer hose. The CTX bars pull back farther, thus the cables and hose are longer than on the NC.

Going beyond 2 inch rise, I installed CTX throttle cables and lengthened the electrical cables to the handlebar switches. See this thread: https://nc700-forum.com/threads/adding-bar-rise-beyond-2.16356/

(Sorry if I missed the point of your question. I have no patience for videos, so I didn’t watch much of it).

Thanx for the advice !

I will look for a longer brake hose. I have the DCT model so there is a LOT more cables going to the handlebar, and I'd rather not mess with them.
Very good explanation on your thread regarding beyond 2" rise!!
 
D

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Getting two more inches with well-made CNC'd up-and-back risers as found by gazillions of sellers on eBay (at that time anyway), I didn't need longer cables or wires – though I did pull a little slack up where needed. Been running that way for years now with nary a sign of slippage or duress. I like the simple sturdy up-and-back risers better than the Rox because they are less bulky and don't have the fiddly extra rotating Rox risers have and no need to rough up the bars either to prevent slippage. They basically do the same thing and are way cheaper too.

Got the same type on my WR250R which really gets hammered more, no problems with the risers on it either. In either case I got the extension I needed for more comfortable sitting, and standing without having to tilt my head up uncomfortably.
 

Lee Dodge

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I have 2 inch rox risers on my 2012 DCT ABS and initially had the same problem. There is a bracket and grommet that holds the brake line farther down on the frame. I had to remove that. From your video it looks like you have already done that. The second step is to reroute the brake line to come up behind the triple clamp instead of in front of it. To do this you need to remove the right side body work. Then take the lever assembly and feed it backwards through the forks between the fork tube and the steering neck. This is a very tight squeeze and took multiple attempts to find just the right position to get it through the gap. In the end I was able to get it through without disconnecting the brake line. If that doesn't work I suppose you could always remove the fork tube on that side but that's a lot more work. I can't remember if I had to loosen the fitting on the master cylinder to reorient the line when I was done but I don't think so. The brake line now has a direct path to the ABS module giving me plenty of slack.
 
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FinnMike

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I have 2 inch rox risers on my 2012 DCT ABS and initially had the same problem. There is a bracket and grommet that holds the brake line farther down on the frame. I had to remove that. From your video it looks like you have already done that. The second step is to reroute the brake line to come up behind the triple clamp instead of in front of it. To do this you need to remove the right side body work. Then take the lever assembly and feed it backwards through the forks between the fork tube and the steering neck. This is a very tight squeeze and took multiple attempts to find just the right position to get it through the gap. In the end I was able to get it through without disconnecting the brake line. If that doesn't work I suppose you could always remove the fork tube on that side but that's a lot more work. I can't remember if I had to loosen the fitting on the master cylinder to reorient the line when I was done but I don't think so. The brake line now has a direct path to the ABS module giving me plenty of slack.

Thanx!

I will have a second attempt and try to find a route for the hose :)
 

Alias

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The rubber grommet on the brake line isn't molded to the brake line, you can work it loose and slide it to where you need it to be. A little oil and some persuasion should loosen that grommet, that's what I did when I put risers on my 2012 NC.
 

Outrider1

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The rubber grommet on the brake line isn't molded to the brake line, you can work it loose and slide it to where you need it to be. A little oil and some persuasion should loosen that grommet, that's what I did when I put risers on my 2012 NC.
Or try spray silicone. Worked for me and less mess.
 

Havok

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I installed the 2 inch Rox pivoting risers on my 2020 NC 750x DCT today.
For the life of me I could not get the grommet on the brake line to come loose and slide on the line.
Yes I removed the clamp but still no luck. So I took Finn’s advice and moved the master cylinder so the line goes under the forks instead of over and have plenty of slack for all other cables and wires.

I have to say these risers make it a more comfortable reach to the bars. My fingers no longer go numb after 5 minutes of riding.

The hardest part was removing and reassembling the right side plastic. I ended up losing 2 push rivets in the engine some where.
Nothing falls on the ground always in the engine area where I am sure it falls out in the first quarter mile of riding to be lost forever. Also have 1 hex head bolt left over that I could not figure out where it was supposed to go. A wise mechanic once told me all good mechanics have parts leftover.
 

AVG1940

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Have the Rox anti-vibration risers on my '18 manual. So, cable position not really applicable to your dilemma. However I will say that as a mod, they are a joy. All together, the risers, Grip puppies and Puig rubberized foot pegs seem to eliminate 90% of the almost non existent engine vibration. Makes my RT feel like the last century diesel truck that it is... Highly recommended!

Now, if I could just eliminate the fluttering of my helmet beak in the airstream...
 

dduelin

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Have the Rox anti-vibration risers on my '18 manual. So, cable position not really applicable to your dilemma. However I will say that as a mod, they are a joy. All together, the risers, Grip puppies and Puig rubberized foot pegs seem to eliminate 90% of the almost non existent engine vibration. Makes my RT feel like the last century diesel truck that it is... Highly recommended!

Now, if I could just eliminate the fluttering of my helmet beak in the airstream...
I agree. This NC came with Rox 2" risers and SW-Motech foot pegs and I added Grip Puppies. I've pulled the risers back about 30 degrees and rotated the bars forward for a most comfortable position very similar to my RT's egos. The inboard end of hand grip to sterum measurement is nearly identical between the two bikes. The NC's vibration is pleasant. I somewhat disagree about the RT's feel when going down the road though. In it's stride the RT's thrumming cadence feels great. Just a couple weeks after buying my current RT I did a SaddleSore 1000 on a whim. Of course, I've done SaddleSores on my previous NCs too but not nearly as comfortably.
 

Bob S.

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I just had the Honda shop install VOX 2" risers on my new 2021 NC750X DCT with no problems, or rerouting the brake line. Purchased the risers from Cycle Gear.
 
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