2" risers for the NC750X

FinnMike

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Hello fellow riders!

I know there are many of you who have installed 2" raisers. How have you tackled the problem with too short cables?
I tried to install the 2" ROX risers but failed due to the front brake cable.

Here is a short video describing the problem:
 

670cc

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When I installed 2 inch Rox risers on a manual transmission NC700X, I installed a longer, custom made front brake hose. Later on, I installed a longer clutch from a CTX700, to get better slack in the clutch cable, although that cable adds 100mm and is a bit long for the 2 inch rise. Those modifications made the 2 inch risers work fine.

Whether the brake hose from the master cylinder goes directly to the caliper or to an ABS module, I still think you could get a brake hose built any length you want with any fittings you want. Perhaps look at a Honda parts list for the CTX700 for a longer hose. The CTX bars pull back farther, thus the cables and hose are longer than on the NC.

Going beyond 2 inch rise, I installed CTX throttle cables and lengthened the electrical cables to the handlebar switches. See this thread: https://nc700-forum.com/threads/adding-bar-rise-beyond-2.16356/

(Sorry if I missed the point of your question. I have no patience for videos, so I didn’t watch much of it).
 
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FinnMike

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When I installed 2 inch Rox risers on a manual transmission NC700X, I installed a longer, custom made front brake hose. Later on, I installed a longer clutch from a CTX700, to get better slack in the clutch cable, although that cable adds 100mm and is a bit long for the 2 inch rise. Those modifications made the 2 inch risers work fine.

Whether the brake hose from the master cylinder goes directly to the caliper or to an ABS module, I still think you could get a brake hose built any length you want with any fittings you want. Perhaps look at a Honda parts list for the CTX700 for a longer hose. The CTX bars pull back farther, thus the cables and hose are longer than on the NC.

Going beyond 2 inch rise, I installed CTX throttle cables and lengthened the electrical cables to the handlebar switches. See this thread: https://nc700-forum.com/threads/adding-bar-rise-beyond-2.16356/

(Sorry if I missed the point of your question. I have no patience for videos, so I didn’t watch much of it).
Thanx for the advice !

I will look for a longer brake hose. I have the DCT model so there is a LOT more cables going to the handlebar, and I'd rather not mess with them.
Very good explanation on your thread regarding beyond 2" rise!!
 

greenboy

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Getting two more inches with well-made CNC'd up-and-back risers as found by gazillions of sellers on eBay (at that time anyway), I didn't need longer cables or wires – though I did pull a little slack up where needed. Been running that way for years now with nary a sign of slippage or duress. I like the simple sturdy up-and-back risers better than the Rox because they are less bulky and don't have the fiddly extra rotating Rox risers have and no need to rough up the bars either to prevent slippage. They basically do the same thing and are way cheaper too.

Got the same type on my WR250R which really gets hammered more, no problems with the risers on it either. In either case I got the extension I needed for more comfortable sitting, and standing without having to tilt my head up uncomfortably.
 

Lee Dodge

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I have 2 inch rox risers on my 2012 DCT ABS and initially had the same problem. There is a bracket and grommet that holds the brake line farther down on the frame. I had to remove that. From your video it looks like you have already done that. The second step is to reroute the brake line to come up behind the triple clamp instead of in front of it. To do this you need to remove the right side body work. Then take the lever assembly and feed it backwards through the forks between the fork tube and the steering neck. This is a very tight squeeze and took multiple attempts to find just the right position to get it through the gap. In the end I was able to get it through without disconnecting the brake line. If that doesn't work I suppose you could always remove the fork tube on that side but that's a lot more work. I can't remember if I had to loosen the fitting on the master cylinder to reorient the line when I was done but I don't think so. The brake line now has a direct path to the ABS module giving me plenty of slack.
 
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FinnMike

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I have 2 inch rox risers on my 2012 DCT ABS and initially had the same problem. There is a bracket and grommet that holds the brake line farther down on the frame. I had to remove that. From your video it looks like you have already done that. The second step is to reroute the brake line to come up behind the triple clamp instead of in front of it. To do this you need to remove the right side body work. Then take the lever assembly and feed it backwards through the forks between the fork tube and the steering neck. This is a very tight squeeze and took multiple attempts to find just the right position to get it through the gap. In the end I was able to get it through without disconnecting the brake line. If that doesn't work I suppose you could always remove the fork tube on that side but that's a lot more work. I can't remember if I had to loosen the fitting on the master cylinder to reorient the line when I was done but I don't think so. The brake line now has a direct path to the ABS module giving me plenty of slack.
Thanx!

I will have a second attempt and try to find a route for the hose :)
 

Alias

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The rubber grommet on the brake line isn't molded to the brake line, you can work it loose and slide it to where you need it to be. A little oil and some persuasion should loosen that grommet, that's what I did when I put risers on my 2012 NC.
 

Outrider1

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The rubber grommet on the brake line isn't molded to the brake line, you can work it loose and slide it to where you need it to be. A little oil and some persuasion should loosen that grommet, that's what I did when I put risers on my 2012 NC.
Or try spray silicone. Worked for me and less mess.
 

FinnMike

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Thanks for all the tips. I finally got it to work by rerouting the brake hose.
Here's an update of the video, if someone's interested.
Updated section starts at 4:25

 
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