A few people have been scammed on the site, Only use paypal to pay for items for sale by other members. If they will not use paypal, its likely a scam NEVER SEND E-TRANSFERS OF ANY KIND.
The Shinko 705 is good for what you want and doesn't give up too much on road. A little slower on initial turn in. If it is dry then the TKC80 large block knobby actually does quite good but I'm betting you would be happier on the Shinko.
I have left mine on the left side for an hour or so with no problems. Fired right up with no smoke or anything leaking. Similar to other suggestions you can build an A-frame hoist with a few pieces of wood and ratchet straps
Looks a bit like the insert that goes inside the rubber grommet on the windscreen mount. Have you changed the windscreen and possibly dropped it from the factory windscreen?
I've ridden a lot in Arkansas (rocky ground) and did the COBDR on my NC. The cast wheels are not an issue as long as you keep the tires at 25psi or higher. I have taken a small chunk out of the front rim at 20psi. Interestingly I didn't loose air and only found it a few days later while washing.
I'm 6'1 ~35" inseam. I did Rox Risers, lowered pegs, slope mod, and finally seat concepts. With those 4 mods I finally got to where I could ride all day without any real issues. Did an unplanned iron butt running 1,200 miles in 24hrs straight without too much discomfort.
I also would be hesitant with aluminum extensions. My concern would be the strength of the threads. As for having someone local make them, all they should need is your existing fork cap to measure thread pitch and depth.
It is silica in some antifreeze that kills the seals. Honda cars and motorcycles require silica free......least that is what I remember from back in the 80s.
I do something similar. When assembling I coat the axle and mating surfaces of the spacers, bearings, seals, etc with waterproof grease. I also push grease between the seal and bearing then make sure grease is in the dip in the seal where it fits against the axle. That stopped water entering...
I'll throw my thoughts in.........I normally advise a noobie to get a used 250/300 CBR/Ninja or Rebel as their first bike since you can or could get one for ~2k ride it for a year to learn and better decide what you want long term. You can sell it a year later for basically the same price. They...
I used the Vario pegs for a while until i moved to more off-road pegs. The 30mm Vario pegs were great for my knees. I used them positioned straight down. I was able to adjust the brake and shifter to work. You do lose some cornering lean angle with the drop. Foot was usually the first to touch...
Some tires can be run front or back but the manufacturer states that fact. If I remember correctly the Shinko 705 is one. Sometimes they tell you to reverse the tire rotation direction depending on front or back. As for aggressive dual sport tire, there is only 1 choice that I know of that fits...
There are a lot of variables with how a bike corners. Wheel base, rake, COG, wheel size, tire width, type of tire. Tires in general can totally change the feel of a bike. Sidewall profile, shape (some tires are flatter across the width), tire pressure is a big and yes wheel/tire diameter. Sport...
I have a cramp buster and a go cruise. 2 different items. When I'm not actively using the cramp buster I spin it off onto the bar end weight which is around town, fun twisties, off-road. Basically anywhere I want to insure smooth throttle control and I'm varying the throttle a lot. It will work...
I have SW-Motch bars and have been down many times off-road and once on-road. While the engine is pretty well tucked the bars also protect the plastics which are not cheap to replace. Additionally the clutch cover and the stater (sp?) cover are exposed and a hole in them means a lot oil leaking...