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Yeah, it's likely, that would be my first guess as well, but I thought the camshaft had been the cause because of the crack-like nature of the fault. A stuck roller would wear out the lobe, not crack it (one would think). Anyway, I suspect it must've been a material fault, not a machining one, I...

There's a shop in Germany that sells parts from "totaled" bikes. I think they have engine parts, I'll check that out.

Hi everyone, good news! Problem not solved yet, but at least found: it seems there was a material or heat treatment fault in my camshaft, there was a small crack in one of the lobes (correct term?) which couldn't be seen at first (I needed a magnifying glass to see it and it could be felt by a...

We "tested" it with one of those adjustable torque drivers, we adjusted it until it started ratcheting while turning the main shaft. Without plugs the two bikes were inside 1-2 clicks of setting. Not an exact way, only made for comparison. With plugs in, mine needed significantly higher setting...

No sign of oil and coolant mixing. Spark plugs look OK. By the way, maybe I put it the wrong way, it seems that my compression is higher (as between compression cycles there seems to be no difficulty to turn the engine), as we couldn't measure it the usual way. Without plugs the engine turns...

I bought it new in 2013. I used it for 2 years, after it was in storage for 5 years (family issues). I used it again for 2 years, no problems. It only has 10000 miles. Last autumn there were starting problems, I thought it was a dead battery, so bought a new one. After that it seemed better but...

Thanks, so that's why we haven't found it :) In that case, the cylinder head comes off (first). I'll throw a party when this thing gets sorted out.

Update, everyone: it seems my compression is higher than expected on startup. There's no dedicated Honda shop near me, so I took my bike to a Yamaha specialized guy, he's good but not necessarily familiar with NC700. We thought about the problem together and the question arose if the NC has some...

Thanks for the input, I was thinking about that too. I'll start to demount things and see what happens. Hopefully I won't have to split the crankcase... I've done that on other bikes a few times but the NC being that "cramped" engine-wise, I'm not looking forward to doing it...

I apologized for me being wrong and you being right (as in the regulator will not fry as I falsely stated). I also thought through your input and I think I found the source of our disagreement: on older bikes (mostly kickstarters) which I am more familiar with, the order was...

I must apologize to you for one thing I overlooked, you were right: the regulator will not fry, the fuse will go first anyway. :) I'm not even sure I fully understand your line of thinking in this last comment (it's already midnight here and I'm tired now). The reason to connect a running car...

That's the problem. The door (aka the rectifier) is between the alternator and the regulator. Not between the battery and the regulator.

Look, I'm an electrical engineer. I gave you my opinion to my best knowledge. The bike has a 400W alternator, so let's say the bike's regulator is rated at 500W. Worst case is your regulator needs to dissipate the whole output of the alternator. That's 400W. Is it able to handle it? I suppose...

I stated that if you run the car while jumping a smaller engine/motorcycle, the regulator may be fried. I think it's clear enough. I measured the voltage while starting and posted it a few days ago. If I remember correctly it was about 10.2 or 10.3V while pressing the button, and the same if...

The battery voltage, when the car/bike doesn't run, is lower than the set voltage of the regulator... And the bike regulator (or the regulator circuitry) also includes the rectifier, of course. In a car, the rectifier diodes are usually inside/on the alternator. Your last sentence would be...

With cars it's no problem as their regulators actually regulate the excitating current of their alternators. So if you connect another car to yours, your regulator will only set your alternator excitation current to zero if the voltage is above the set limit. If you try to jump a bike from a...

(I checked the valve timing, see above. It's OK.) Considering the bike ran fine the last time I used it, one would think the problem can be narrowed down to the battery, the leads connecting it to the starter motor and the wheels and the clutch between the starter and the main shaft. Not that...

I agree with you on this, but Occam is mostly against "impossible" theories, which are not easily tested. Timing chain issues are not that uncommon with the NC, and it's easy to check. I checked it, camshaft seems to be where it should be, the marks align. So still no solution, I'll keep...

It's not out of the question, I looked at an animation of the NC engine (I tried to visualize it in my head and failed :) ), when the right cylinder compresses, the left cylinder is in the exhaust stroke. If the exhaust valves are not open yet, it's probable that the starter cannot overcome the...

Yeah, tried that. Two different car batteries, both working good. Same result.