There is also experience and real world cases. I troubleshooted multiple cases of engine misbehavior due to untuned exhausts solved by remapping (when a map exists) or putting back the stock. I had to remap one of my bikes after putting an Arrow as performance was noticeably decreased with the...
Yeah, your issue lies in the hydraulics, not the spring. Without changing the shock there is not much you can do.
Given your weight you cannot put a softer spring, you would hit the max range on compression.
I am not saying you carry it around. And personally I keep a voltmeter at home, but I do not own testing equipment. So far I was still able to verify that two batteries were in need of replacement.
Anyway shorting a battery to check if it sparks is a dumb idea, period.
And the fact that the ECU piloting injection is expecting specific behavior for the flows. When you change exhaust flow you alter intake flow, the ECU usually does not compensate that (measures "only" concern temperature, throttle opening, outside air pressure, O2 level).
And the worse part is...
That's hardly a valid test. Even a "dead" battery (one with a shorted element thus being 9v) will "POW". Also a good way to kill a battery.
To test a battery, at a minimum you charge it properly and you measure its voltage while out of the bike, then the drop while attempting a start. And for...
An exhaust is not just a straight pipe. Each bike has a specific exhaust flow which is critical for proper engine operation. I just can't see how an exhaust can be universal.
I would not trust that kind of 0-design Chinese knock-off. Or any unknown brand.
Second that. My experience is that if you suspect issues with a 5+ year old battery, start by getting a new one or you will spend time troubleshooting, having further issues, until you need to change it anyway.
On any significant braking the weight will transfer to the front and the rear brake will become close to useless.
As you stated the rear brake is for low speed, or for correcting a trajectory (get in the turn). If you plan a significant braking and you have time, you may use the rear break...
Nope, engine stops, no more oil pressure, clutch disengages. This is a safety design, DCT clutch is off by default (disks apart) and requires sufficient pressure to push then together to link gearbox to secondary drive.
Like the above.
On the DCT I even go as far as using Honda recommended ETec. Half more expensive than "standard" JASO MA but hey, what's 23 $ for 7500 miles (or year) of peace of mind...
Yeah here the service interval is 12000 km which is roughly 7500 miles.
The DCT filter is 10 bucks every...
Assuming the reading difference is a constant.
But yes it would be good to validate if the Fobo is OK or way off, I would be interested in the results over a few sensors. The fact that the manufacturer does not specify accuracy is not a good sign IMO.
I even check my gage with my neighbor's...
The S mode on the 2nd gen DCT just works, it is great and feels natural in most situations. From time to time I will override (mostly downshift for more engine breaking) using the paddles, but most of the time the S mode gets it right. And in the 2nd gen, manual shifting keeps you in automatic...
Any ANSI B40.1, mine is grade B which is 2% accuracy.
Looks like this one (I do not have this exact model), you can take it on road trips.
Amazon.com: TireTek Flexi-Pro Tire Pressure Gauge, Heavy Duty Best For Car & Motorcycle - 60 PSI: Automotive
Sure it is not connected to your phone, but...
It seems there is no accuracy specified, to me this puts the device in the electronic gizmo category.
I prefer one weekly check with my certified gage than always on false reading.
I know, the Fobo may be accurate, by chance ;)
Saving 30 mn a day I can spend doing interesting things: priceless.
Also interesting 1h30 bike daily commute vs boring 2h car commute.
Here, calculation complete ;)
Yes, I do own a car. The NC TCO is pretty low, for a bike, but many cars will beat it as stated. Good thing the TCO is not why...