Dealer and Oil Pan Plug [emoji2959][emoji2959][emoji2959]

[GregC]

I let the dealer do the last oil change since it was in for it’s 16,000 and would be the last major service while still under the extended warranty.

Went to change the oil today and the damned plug was way over torqued, and I ended up stripping it [emoji37]. Tried every tool I have - it’s rounded off now so can’t do anything else until the new bolt gets here. Then the easy out and heat gun will go to work.

As much as too tight oil filters and drain plugs get talked about I’m amazed dealers don’t back off on the pneumatic drivers.

Dealer won’t be seeing this bike again unless something very bad happens.


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[Red Rider]

I let the dealer do the last oil change since it was in for it’s 16,000 and would be the last major service while still under the extended warranty.

Went to change the oil today and the damned plug was way over torqued, and I ended up stripping it [emoji37]. Tried every tool I have - it’s rounded off now so can’t do anything else until the new bolt gets here. Then the easy out and heat gun will go to work.

As much as too tight oil filters and drain plugs get talked about I’m amazed dealers don’t back off on the pneumatic drivers.

Dealer won’t be seeing this bike again unless something very bad happens.


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Doesn’t sound like he used a crush washer at all. Hope the threads stay in place when you finally back it out. The thought of some knucklehead at a dealer working on my bike gives me the willies.

 

[1wiseguy2]

I let the dealer do the last oil change since it was in for it’s 16,000 and would be the last major service while still under the extended warranty.

Went to change the oil today and the damned plug was way over torqued, and I ended up stripping it [emoji37]. Tried every tool I have - it’s rounded off now so can’t do anything else until the new bolt gets here. Then the easy out and heat gun will go to work.

As much as too tight oil filters and drain plugs get talked about I’m amazed dealers don’t back off on the pneumatic drivers.

Dealer won’t be seeing this bike again unless something very bad happens.


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DON'T USE AN EASY OUT!
Go to a Harbor Freight near you for an inexpensive solution. Buy a set of these. Metric not standard as they have both.
Sure there are name brand sets and the ones that are more fluted look like they would do a better job. These work too. I once had a bolt head rusted down on my 1999 suburban it wasn't a metric or a standard size. I got whatever size fit the best and pounded it on the hub bolt and finally got it off with a special impact tool that connects to the socket that snap on makes. If you drill and break the easy out( what a misnomer) then you have bigger problems. I think a set is less then $24 or right around there.if a size doesn't fit fairly tight then I have as stated taken the next smaller size and beat it on. They work. If they get worn as they are cheaply then take that set back and get a new set for free. Lifetime warranty and they mean it.
Good luck... and before I touched it more I would ride it in to the dealer or send them some photos and let them know. Most Hondas are around 22# and a torque wrench should be used.

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[GregC]

The plug is now stripped round - not sure those would work because there’s virtually no edges for those grab onto.


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[1wiseguy2]

The plug is now stripped round - not sure those would work because there’s virtually no edges for those grab onto.


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They will. As they turn they dig into the bolt head. Might have to smack one on. My bolt was totally rusted and round. I bought the metric and standard to have more choices. They have helped me out of a couple of jams now.

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[Juan_Banjovy]

I've had some luck using a pipe wrench on stripped bolt heads. Sometimes it grabs & turns, other times it just slips.

 

[Deleted member 1183]

A vise grip can sometimes work if applied tightly enough ?

 

[GregC]

The tough part of the NC700x oil pan is the way the plug is located - the location makes getting vice grips, pipe wrench and other tools on there very difficult or unworkable.

Gonna try the heat gun and some needle nosed vice grips when the new plug arrives. Otherwise it’s easy-outs or WiseGuy’s extractors.


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[1wiseguy2]

The tough part of the NC700x oil pan is the way the plug is located - the location makes getting vice grips, pipe wrench and other tools on there very difficult or unworkable.

Gonna try the heat gun and some needle nosed vice grips when the new plug arrives. Otherwise it’s easy-outs or WiseGuy’s extractors.


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Once I had to get a bolt out that had been corroded by saltwater. Filed it flat on two sides then got after it with a large pair of vise grips... that was before I knew about the extractors

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[670cc]

I have a curiosity question. Step one was the dealer over tightening the bolt. Step two was you trying to remove the bolt. Again, out of curiosity, did you use a 12 point socket or box wrench , six point socket or box wrench, or an open end wrench? The bolt would seem to be amazingly tight if you could round it off with a six point socket. I stopped using 12 points long ago. Again, this is the dealer’s fault, but I wondered how it so easily it rounded off.

 

[1wiseguy2]

I have a curiosity question. Step one was the dealer over tightening the bolt. Step two was you trying to remove the bolt. Again, out of curiosity, did you use a 12 point socket or box wrench , six point socket or box wrench, or an open end wrench? The bolt would seem to be amazingly tight if you could round it off with a six point socket. I stopped using 12 points long ago. Again, this is the dealer’s fault, but I wondered how it so easily it rounded off.

This is rhetorical isn't it?

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[GregC]

I’ve never had an issue with 12 point sockets in decades of use, unless the bolt was unbelievably torqued (as here). Candidly, most folks just go to Lowe’s Depot and buy a socket set without regard to 12 vs 6 point sockets, and *should* work 99% of the time except where a prior mechanic over torqued the hell out of a bolt.

Both car and bike mech’s do this religiously, and I can’t understand it for the life of me.


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[dduelin]

Righty tighty lefty loosey.

Just saying because I’ve done it backwards to my chagrin.

 

[1wiseguy2]

I’ve never had an issue with 12 point sockets in decades of use, unless the bolt was unbelievably torqued (as here). Candidly, most folks just go to Lowe’s Depot and buy a socket set without regard to 12 vs 6 point sockets, and *should* work 99% of the time except where a prior mechanic over torqued the hell out of a bolt.

Both car and bike mech’s do this religiously, and I can’t understand it for the life of me.


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Greg,
This is definitely not your fault and we know it. I was just having fun poking at 670.
Like I said, a drain bolt should be in the neighborhood of 22 ft/pounds which a 12 point shouldn't have a problem with. I use 6 points on softer metal or something that I have to put more force on than normal. That's a lesson I learned the hard way.
As someone above stated ... I would be careful of the threads once you get this bolt out. If the new bolt goes in but not easily stop as those threads may be a bit deformed. Might be worth getting a tap and chasing those threads to clean them up a bit. This is a worse case scenario though. Depending upon clearance a bottom tap might be better. A good hardware store should sell them. Take the bolt in so they get the thread count and pitch correct!! Hopefully the new bolt will thread in nicely!

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[670cc]

This is rhetorical isn't it?

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No, not rhetorical. If a 6 point socket stripped the bolt head, then a)the bolt was REALLY tight, and b)Greg is very strong.

 

[GregC]

Based on the effort it took to open a jar of olives last night, (b) is clearly false.


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[MZ5]

On top of using the extractors pictured previously, ride the bike and get the engine (and oil pan) good and hot immediately before you try.

 

[GregC]

Righty tighty lefty loosey.

Just saying because I’ve done it backwards to my chagrin.

you're absolute correct ... I stop and do "righty tighty, lefty loosey" before almost every turn (especially if I'm working upside down). But in this case, it was "anti clockwise" all the way.

 

[TacomaJD]

On top of using the extractors pictured previously, ride the bike and get the engine (and oil pan) good and hot immediately before you try.

And hit it with some WD40 a couple different times and let it sit to hopefully penetrate the threads. You'd be surprised how much it could help. Recently had issues removing exhaust manifold studs from the head on my car, after having no luck breaking the first couple loose, sprayed base of studs with WD40 really good, ran to parts store to pick up new exhaust manifold, came back, they all ended up breaking loose without problems. At first it was requiring enough effort to cause worry of breaking the studs off and they weren't budging. No doubt in my mind that the WD40 helped to break them loose.

Also, needle nose vice grips are not going to help anythig in this situation. You need standard vice grips, large ones at that, with a rounded jaw like a regular pair of pliers to get more grip surface area. And you can get a higher level of clamping force out of larger vice grips. But, those specialty sockets pictured above look like they would do the trick. Wouldn't matter if it's completely rounded off, as the way they are made they will bite into the head when turned, similar to how a pipe wrench works.

I need to pick up a set of those, looks pretty handy. I almost rounded off the axle nut on my Grom the other day using a large thumb wrench instead of a socket. I hate that sinking feeling in your stomach the minute you are throwing down some forehead vein popping force and the wrench suddenly gives! LOL



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[GregC]

There’s not enough room for standard vice grips to grab and be able to turn. There may not be enough room for needle nose either in terms of being able to turn once the jaws are on the bolt - I’ll be trying this weekend once the new plug arrives.

Thanks for all the advice gang. Right now it’s gonna be PB Blaster penetrating oil, the needle nosed vice grips, and the easy out extractors if all else fails. The socket extractors look like they would works, but the easy outs were $10 and the sockets were $30, and candidly this sort of thing has happened so infrequently over the last 30 years that I want the lowest cost solution.

The real solution is that the dealer doesn’t get to touch this bike for anything other than a major engine repair that I’m not equipped to do.




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