2021: What did you do to/with your NC700/NC750 today?

[foodog38]

Are you in WA state?

 

[Deleted member 1183]

Couple of pics from a weekend away on the X-Adv. The Dunlops got tested in the wet and all good so far. I have a bit more wet testing to do with them before I can make a direct comparison with the Michelins that went before them.

 

[Rapturee]

Are you in WA state?

If that is for me no I am not although I’m just 30 mins from Spokane wa.

 

[Motorat]

if that was for me I am in SW Washington not far from Vancouver WA

 

[sea dweller]

Okay, you guys are going to love this little DCT nugget.

I was in high gear and high rpm when the bike failed. It was a simple lighting electrical load that caused the bike to quit at highway speeds. I threw the accessory lights on. I was sailing past Six Flags over Texas... almost on the 5 story elevated highway. So lucky.

I had the battery tested. Poor condition. Got a new one. Installed it. Checked my accessories. All works. Turn the key on. A six is in the gear indicator. The bike is clicking. Maybe 10 times before it stops clicking. No N for neutral. I pull in the brake, turn the key and rock the bike. The number changes to 5. The clicking stops. I roll the bike backwards... Turn the key on.... click... click... I roll the bike forwards. Each click is a down gear action on the bike.... trying to correct itself. 4....3....2....1... N on the indicator. Now the bike is in neutral. I shut the bike off... then turn it on again. Hit the starter.... and WOW..... kazowie! All works. If the bike is standing in place, it won't recover.

When your battery goes bad from high outside heat at high speeds.... (the day and night Texas heat)... It can fail and shut the bike off... at high speed. Wow. How about that! Stuck in 6th gear. And you cannot start it. And it may happen when you turn on an accessory. While Riding. You will need to make sure the kick stand is up to take this action.

You will need to get a new battery.... make sure it is charged.... turn the bike on... and roll it forwards with the hand brake lever...helping the bike to downshift.... back to N. When that happens... restart the bike. Wow. A honda trained service tech kinda gave me a clue. He said the gear indicator is probably right... and the bike is still in 6th gear... and stuck there.

Turn the key, and the bike tries to recover... but it needs a good charge to do it, and you need to know what to do. Otherwise it is very confusing.

Now that the whole country has experienced the Texas heat, I hope this helps a lot of people. "Check your Bat-tree", they say in Philadelphia. "Eetz alwaaayz the Bat-tree".

Thanks for the great & useful tip! I'm glad everything worked out, without breaking the bank.

 

[TacomaJD]

Well after my most recent track day at Barber on Labor Day, my EBC HH sintered pads are glazed...and still have half or more of the pad left. Really good pads, and plenty good enough for street, but with only one single caliper on the front slowing down a 500 lb bike and 200 lb rider at a fast pace on track, they are shot at only around 10 track days. Just bought some EBC Extreme Pro Road Race pads, which costed about double the standard HH pads, so maybe these will stop better and last longer under track use.

They are running at Tally this weekend, and running the track in reverse direction on Sunday, which I absolutely love riding in that direction, but not sure I will be able to make it.

Also note, the stock image below is not of actual pads or part number specific to the NC.

 

[the Ferret]

Gave it's first bath

 

[Lomunchi]

I hit 5000 miles! Bought it in March 2021.

 

[mlc]

After getting home from work, did the clutch initialization per bigbird's intructions (previous page).
Took it around the block, noticed the 1-2-3 clicks much smoother. Maybe I was tired or it's confirmation bias, so I'll have to try again on a longer ride.
But not tomorrow. First Santa Ana winds of Fall on the forecast. Not at full strength, but still no fun to ride through.
Crossing fingers for a lack of wildfires.

 

[Motorat]

Installed my givi racks.

 

[Ricknc]

Today I installed new tires(705’s,the tire everyone loves to hate), chain, sprockets. First time spooning tires onto this bike, It was easier than I expected. Only hassle was my balancer was not wide enough for the rear so I had to fabricate a wider base. While I was rummaging in the junk bin. I found a piece of mud flap that I used to fabricate a mud flap to keep much of the grit,grim and debris off the rear shock. All back together except that I discovered a crack in a brake pad and it will be 3 days to get the new ones.

 

[bigbird]

Did my first chain adjustment today (almost 3k km).
I had been cleaning the chain religiously every 500km (kerosene and re-lube with gear oil), but my chain had reached 45mm of slack on the centre stand.
Adjusted back to 40mmm with a MotionPro slack measurement tool, definitely more accurate than using the 3 finger method or a ruler or tape, and used a MotionPro chain alignment tool, definitely easier than counting exposed threads on the adjusting screws.
Used the torque wrench (72 ft-lbs) on the axle nut, but not on the adjuster locknuts.
The axle nut torque will affect the rear wheel bearing operation, so it's important.
The tension adjuster locknuts; not so much, just tight enough to be firm.
About the same torque as tightening spark plugs (15 ft-lbs).
Took all of 10 minutes to do.

 

[Twincam]

(705’s,the tire everyone loves to hate)

I have those now. Now at 2000km on them and I have to say I am pretty impressed! Way ahead of the stock Dunlop's, in every ridind condition. I now love to recommend them!

 

[dduelin]

Did my first chain adjustment today (almost 3k km).
I had been cleaning the chain religiously every 500km (kerosene and re-lube with gear oil), but my chain had reached 45mm of slack on the centre stand.
Adjusted back to 40mmm with a MotionPro slack measurement tool, definitely more accurate than using the 3 finger method or a ruler or tape, and used a MotionPro chain alignment tool, definitely easier than counting exposed threads on the adjusting screws.
Used the torque wrench (72 ft-lbs) on the axle nut, but not on the adjuster locknuts.
The axle nut torque will affect the rear wheel bearing operation, so it's important.
The tension adjuster locknuts; not so much, just tight enough to be firm.
About the same torque as tightening spark plugs (15 ft-lbs).
Took all of 10 minutes to do.

Accuracy is great but it’s common for chains to have some variation in slack when measured at various points in the run. Not sure I follow why Motion Pro tool is supposedly more accurate than a mm ruler measuring at 3 or 4 points in the run. 40 mm at one point could be as much as 35 or 45 elsewhere in the run. Torque is always important with tapered race bearings but these wheel bearings pass compression loads from the axle nut through spacers and the compression tube to the nut on the other side. Torque value of axle nut is of no consequence to bearing preload but needs to be set to suggested value for safety.

 

[r3tic]

I ran the wiring for the Zumo XT before my commute to work. I mounted it above the dash and it's amazing how much better it can be seen in the sun than the phone I was using for GPS.

 

[potter0o]

Was a pretty wet ride today. My bib rain pants have some seam failures. Going to experiment with a seam repair https://www.cabelas.ca/product/151/gear-aid-aquaseal-fd-repair-adhesive

 

[bigbird]

Not sure I follow why Motion Pro tool is supposedly more accurate than a mm ruler measuring at 3 or 4 points in the run.

I assume you've never used a MotionPro chain slack tool.
The Motion Pro is more accurate because its design and use allow consistent and repeatable accuracy for every measurement, without the need for squinting or contortionist bending of your body needed like you do with a ruler or tape.
Follow their instructions and you can't screw up a measurement.
Hope this helps you understand my statement about accuracy.

 

[dduelin]

I assume you've never used a MotionPro chain slack tool.
The Motion Pro is more accurate because its design and use allow consistent and repeatable accuracy for every measurement, without the need for squinting or contortionist bending of your body needed like you do with a ruler or tape.
Follow their instructions and you can't screw up a measurement.
Hope this helps you understand my statement about accuracy.

It would do away with the getting down close to it I suppose. I'm glad I can still get down close to it.

 

[melensdad]

I didn't ride yesterday.

One of my shooting buddies was in a pretty bad wreck on Tuesday. Car pulled out in front of him.

He was wearing a helmet, moto-jacket, gloves and boots but blue jeans because he gained weight during covid and didn't fit in his armored moto-pants.

Crushed pelvis. Chipped his knee, good bit of road rash on his legs.

Had emergency surgery to repair his pelvis. He will have a 2nd surgery after he heals a bit. Motopants would have saved his knee and road rash, but not the pelvis.

Bike is totaled. Doctor said his recovery will take 6 months.

 

[bigbird]

It would do away with the getting down close to it I suppose.

You decide: