Won't start and it ain't the battery

[Storeysmith]

Rode last week. Bike started up instantly. Parked the bike. Went out yesterday and had a fantastic ride planned. But not so much as a spark or life in the bike. No lights no nuthin'.

Took the battery out and put it on the tender. It was at 87 percent so that was a clue the problem is not in the battery. Charged it up and tried again. Nothing at all!

Computers do this to me all the time -- work one moment, don't work the next.

What ideas does anyone have? Maybe the fuse? But that doesn't make sense either. And, anyway, I can't figure out how to open the fuse box....

 

[dduelin]

A tender doesn’t test a battery under load and it’s under load where an apparently good battery lets you down. If you don’t have a load tester you can take the battery to a battery supply house or retailer.

 

[Saturday Morning]

Did I read correctly that the headlight and running lights didn't come on at all - not even a dim glow?

 

[670cc]

Measure the battery voltage at rest. Then measure the battery when the key is on and again when attempting to start. Without voltage readings, we would all just be guessing.

Check the condition of the main 30A fuse which is mounted with the starter relay, to the right of the battery.

 

[Storeysmith]

A tender doesn’t test a battery under load and it’s under load where an apparently good battery lets you down. If you don’t have a load tester you can take the battery to a battery supply house or retailer.

Did that. It's not 100 percent, but it has adequate cranking power, so says the man at Autozone

 

[Storeysmith]

Did I read correctly that the headlight and running lights didn't come on at all - not even a dim glow?

Not so much as a flicker

 

[Storeysmith]

Measure the battery voltage at rest. Then measure the battery when the key is on and again when attempting to start. Without voltage readings, we would all just be guessing.

Check the condition of the main 30A fuse which is mounted with the starter relay, to the right of the battery.

Is that fuse in its own little fuse container? An orange covered plastic block about a half inch thick and 1.5 inch wide?

 

[Saturday Morning]

Not so much as a flicker

Ok, thanks for clarifying & confirming. Too many early responses were focused on the battery condition & charge level (which is an understandable concern.) We need to switch our focus to looking for an "open circuit" i.e. a bad fuse, bad switch, bad connection, etc. Give me a minute to look up some info and let's try to identify anything that may have physically changed between the last good day and the no start day... not only any work done on the bike, but also external factors like rain and mice...

 

[Saturday Morning]

I realized that I don't know what year your bike is. The info below is for the 2012 model, but you can use the page navigation to select a different year.
https://www.shawneecycle.com/Parts/.../battery/d7cf7642-994d-4c23-b5f0-851e31f30041

Following the diagram it appears that power flows from the battery positive terminal to the 30 amp main fuse (part #19) which plugs into part #8 called the "SWITCH ASSY., STARTER MAGNETIC " then goes up to the ignition switch. After that I'm not clear. Some of the diagrams I found online show wiring to the engine stop switch, fuse for fuel injectors, bank angle sensor and then to the ECM. I found the cycling the engine stop switch on my bike had no effect on my head light (it remained on) but I don't know about the "bank angle" sensor. It would be helpful if we could find a wiring diagram specific to your bike.


Starting with the most basic stuff,
Double check the battery connections and then see if you can access the 30A main fuse and check it's condition.

 

[lootzyan]

Not so much as a flicker

If you see a little flicker, then the fuse is good.
It could be a very bad connection or there is little energy left in the battery.
Because you are sure of your battery so look for bad contact.

 

[ST13Fred]

Engine Stop Switch in 'run' position?

 

[Doc True]

Engine Stop Switch in 'run' position?

Always worth checking the dumb things like this and the kickstand switch. I think even in the off position on the kill switch the lights should come on though

 

[davidc83]

Even if the kill switch is in the on position (either position really) the headlight does come on.

 

[Storeysmith]

I realized that I don't know what year your bike is. The info below is for the 2012 model, but you can use the page navigation to select a different year.
https://www.shawneecycle.com/Parts/.../battery/d7cf7642-994d-4c23-b5f0-851e31f30041

Following the diagram it appears that power flows from the battery positive terminal to the 30 amp main fuse (part #19) which plugs into part #8 called the "SWITCH ASSY., STARTER MAGNETIC " then goes up to the ignition switch. After that I'm not clear. Some of the diagrams I found online show wiring to the engine stop switch, fuse for fuel injectors, bank angle sensor and then to the ECM. I found the cycling the engine stop switch on my bike had no effect on my head light (it remained on) but I don't know about the "bank angle" sensor. It would be helpful if we could find a wiring diagram specific to your bike.


Starting with the most basic stuff,
Double check the battery connections and then see if you can access the 30A main fuse and check it's condition.

It's the ignition switch.
Bummer.
It's at a shop getting that replaced.

 

[Storeysmith]

Engine Stop Switch in 'run' position?

a reasonable question. Happily, I can say yes.

 

[Biggavano]

Not so much as a flicker

Storey Smith I have a 2014 NC700x and 25,600 on clock I had clutch problems, I changed the clutch friction plates and rubbed the steel plates down with glass paper put clutch back together and I had lights? Now I get no clutch and no lights doing my head in I've checked all fuses 30Amp, 15amp and 7.5amp all fuses OK but no power? Please help with advice tyvm Gavin

 

[Des]

It's the ignition switch.
Bummer.
It's at a shop getting that replaced.

See my "story" under Technical : Engine management warning light. After all the advice, technical input received and discovering multiple issues, I FINALLY discovered an issue with the ignition switch/HISS system. Since I have stopped engaging the steering lock I have experienced no MIL or engine no-start or cut-outs. It seems like the ignition switch is the culprit in many cases.

 

[showkey]

See my "story" under Technical : Engine management warning light. After all the advice, technical input received and discovering multiple issues, I FINALLY discovered an issue with the ignition switch/HISS system. Since I have stopped engaging the steering lock I have experienced no MIL or engine no-start or cut-outs. It seems like the ignition switch is the culprit in many cases.

JUST a note US models do not have HISS ( anti theft ignition switch ) system.