13000 miles OEM Chain, now kinks

[OriginalRocket]

Hello.

Felt like posting an update to the general masses. I have a 2012 NC700X DCT. I just rolled past 13,000 on the odo. I've had the original chain and sprockets since new.

Noticed today when I got to work some of the links are no longer laying flat in a row. Kinks as I think they are called. They still move when pressed, and roll over the sprockets. But I believe this is a sign I'll need a new chain soon. could be why my MPG has gone down slightly, or the switch to winter fuel.

I've read before that the OEM chain is pretty much junk compared to what is available aftermarket. I'll be going with an X ring chain from DID. Unless anyone else has an suggestions. Price does not mater.

Still debating if I change the sprockets. They look new. I use DuPont Chain Saver every 500 miles.

***BUT*** I'll be taking the rims off this winter as I still have the OEM tires that are about 2/32nds away from the wear bars both front and back. And replacing with new tires. In other words. I'll have half the work done already maybe I should just change the sprockets too. And front brake pad replacement is badly needed (at the wear indicator now) Only a couple weeks left of riding season for me.

Hoping my next tire goes 20,000 miles if these oems can go 14,000. I'll need a chain to last that long or longer.

Cheers,

Brian

 

[dduelin]

Bite the bullet and buy new sprockets with the new chain. It's false economy to try and save them - the old sprockets will quickly wear the new chain. A new high quality chain and sprockets can go twice as long or longer than the OEM chain did.

 

[Chestnut]

Yep, replace the sprockets.
I got about the same mileage out of my x ring chain as the oem, but the bike did basically sit for a year, so I can't say which did it in.

 

[Old Can Ride]

Cycle Gear has a fairly cheap chain breaker. Never change the chain without changing the sprockets, unless you just like changing chains and sprockets on a regular bases.

 

[670cc]

I got 17,500 miles out of the chain the dealer installed for the 2012 chain recall. It was the OEM type chain. It had tight links for the last 5000 miles or more, but they didn't hurt anything. I ran the chain until I hit the "replace" indicator on the swing arm. I replaced the chain 2 weeks ago. The sprockets looked fine so I left them. A number of forum members report that they do sprocket changes every other chain, so I'm good with that unless evidence proves otherwise.

I used the Motion Pro PBR chain tool and it worked great.

 

[Deleted member 1183]

I would also change both sprockets with a chain. Often the rear sprocket will look ok, and sometimes it is. However even though it is out of sight, folks tend to assume the front is ok also. If you place a new front sprocket alongside the used one you will see a marked difference. The wear rate on the front sprocket is much greater than the rear as it is much smaller. The teeth become hooked on an old sprocket and they will accordingly cause a higher wear rate on the rollers of a new chain.

 

[Fuzzy]

I replaced my OEM chain at 10,000 miles. Did not replace the sprockets. Replaced with a DID chain. 2nd chain now has 20,000 miles and is doing fine. I also have a Tutoro oiler that keeps is lubed.

May have been better to replace sprockets, but the old sprockets were apparently not worn enough to trash the new chain.

 

[itlives]

My first chain was crap in no time. Replaced with a DID X chain and kept the old sprockets. I have around 11,000 on the new chain and still the sprockets look fine.

 

[dduelin]

Good chain and sprockets can go 30 to 40,000 miles.

 

[what next]

I didn't bother with the sprockets, here is a picture of them after 33,000 miles. http://nc700-forum.com/forum/nc700-general-discussion/9558-sprockets.html?highlight=chain Maybe the second chain would have lasted a lot longer. I will see this time if I can get better chain life.

 

[JoeTx]

During my recent maintenance I changed my OEM chain @ 12,500 just because, I used the Renthal Road one http://images.motorcycle-superstore.com/productimages/OG/0000-Renthal-520-R4-SRS-Road-Chain---.jpg Couldn't believe how much smoother it runs. It was my first chain change, those were some tough rivets to squash!

OH ! did not change the sprockets

 

[StratTuner]

Good chain and sprockets can go 30 to 40,000 miles.

Respectfully, not on the Nc. 12 to 16 is avg fr me. Never seen 20.

I change sprockets every other chain and get about the same chain mileage.

ooops.... didn't read that right...I was talking about the chain, not the sprockets there.
You should get double that on sprockets....not on chains.

 

[ChuteTheMall]

Appx how much do the various chains and sprockets cost?

And appx how much should a dealer charge to replace them?

I realize there might be a wide range here, but any estimates would be a good start.

 

[670cc]

Bite the bullet and buy new sprockets with the new chain. It's false economy to try and save them - the old sprockets will quickly wear the new chain. A new high quality chain and sprockets can go twice as long or longer than the OEM chain did.

I'm not denying your claim, but rather trying to understand it.

Normally I think of chain wear as wear in the link joints that cause the chain to lengthen as the wear at each link adds up. Also there's the case when links lock up due to lack of lubrication resulting in lack of flex.

So, how does using a worn sprocket affect the life of a newer chain? How does it result in the chain requiring early replacement? Are the rollers exteriors somehow excessively worn even though the chain length is still in spec? How would you detect that?

 

[dduelin]

I'm not denying your claim, but rather trying to understand it.

Normally I think of chain wear as wear in the link joints that cause the chain to lengthen as the wear at each link adds up. Also there's the case when links lock up due to lack of lubrication resulting in lack of flex.

So, how does using a worn sprocket affect the life of a newer chain? How does it result in the chain requiring early replacement? Are the rollers exteriors somehow excessively worn even though the chain length is still in spec? How would you detect that?

I'm no expert either I just know I know alot more about chain drive from people running them over 30,000 miles. When I bit the bullet at 16,000 and bought all new components on my 700 the new chain no longer needed regular adjustment as it did previously and when I sold that bike 13-odd thousand miles later I think I had to adjust the chain once or twice in all that time. It was nowhere near the end of it's life.

A sprocket wears to the chain on it as does the chain to the sprocket. An old sprocket, particularly the smaller countershaft sprocket, has teeth with a slightly hooked profile and doesn't maintain the U shape it had when new. The new chain with the correct link length runs across the hooked profile and both wear faster than if the link size and tooth profile were the same as in when both are renewed.

 

[dduelin]

Appx how much do the various chains and sprockets cost?

And appx how much should a dealer charge to replace them?

I realize there might be a wide range here, but any estimates would be a good start.

I think it was about $180 for me to replace both sprockets with Honda parts and install a DID VX2 520 chain. I did get the chain at a good discount though. I do my own work and don't know what a shop would charge for this.

 

[Beemerphile]

The hooked profile is created because with the longer pitch of a worn chain, the pulling force of the front sprocket is taken higher on the tooth form where there is less metal (and strength). A new chain on a worn sprocket is noisy. Rear sprockets are much more tolerant. There are some high strength rear sprockets that would likely last the life of the bike. For front sprockets, I buy normal OEM quality and change them with every chain. Smoother, quieter, and more likely to get the full service life out of the new chain. If someone wants to analyze whether a front sprocket is good enough to reuse, go ahead, but I don't see the rationale. If it is good enough at the start, will it still be good enough later? Why not start fresh?

Rears are a different argument and depend largely on the quality of the sprocket.

 

[itlives]

That makes a lot of sense to me, Beemer. I actually posted a thread way back when I first changed my chain ( and reused the sprockets) about a whining noise from the front sprocket.
No one had a good answer but it eventually went away. I guess it and the chain finally became friends.

 

[670cc]

My new chain on the old sprocket whined on the first ride because I set it too tight. I loosened it to 35-40 mm slack like I usually run them, and she's quiet now.

 

[kebrider]

Respectfully, not on the Nc. 12 to 16 is avg fr me. Never seen 20.

I change sprockets every other chain and get about the same chain mileage.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

I have never liked 520 chain sets on heavier than 450 LB bikes Strat. When I rode sport/sport touring bikes my friends would install 520 kits and barely get 15K out of them while I would regularly get 40 to 50K out of my 525/530 chain/sprocket sets.

With 4 bikes in the garage I have only put a little over 5K on my NC's 525 chain kit that I installed this spring. The 525 sprockets and chain are considerably more substantial that the NC's stock 520 and still not even an initial adjustment required on mine. The top of the line JT Xring chain I installed still rolls like new with no kinks or tight spots. At ~$130 for chain and sprockets through JT (thru Amazon) going to a larger chain/sprocket set is a fantastic deal.

As for reusing sprockets I never do it and I have never know anyone to get equal/better longevity out of a chain when they reuse sprockets. Since I used to run my bikes between 25 and 35K miles I used to go for max chain life. If I did 1/3 the miles I would probably go for 2 chains per sprocket set since the cost per mile is so low.

KEB