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$5 DIY Fender Riser

BrinkHouse

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I just installed a pair of Shinko 705's on my NCX today, I love them so far and the look they give the bike is outstanding, IMO. I ordered a slightly larger front, a 130/80/17 to be exact. My front fender didn't like this. Luckily it wasn't much of a talker and I quickly pulled out the tools. This mod may be necessary for other tires as well, depending on the tread and if you find yourself in a situation where you can't purchase the EXACT size as stock. Below is a basic guide on how I DIY'd a fender riser for $5.

Here are the parts I used:

1) 4-pack of 2" mending plates
Everbilt 2 in. Zinc Plated Mending Plates (4-Pack)-15299 at The Home Depot

4) 6mm cap screw or hex head bolts (mine were 20mm long but you could probably get away with 14 or 16mm length, as well)
6 mm x 16 mm Socket Cap Screw (2-Pieces)-82648 at The Home Depot

4) 6mm nuts

I started by drilling the mending plates up to 3/16th from what looked like 5/32 so that the bolts could fit through. The plates I used were 2" but you could get taller ones if you wanted more lift from the fender. I threaded the new bolt into the axle with a little blue loctite (since it won't receive a nut on the other side, though you could add one if you wanted) I used the stock bolts for the top hole of the plate, tightened with a nut on the inside.


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The upper two bolts were not plated, I simply threaded the original bolts back in and tightened them. Inside the fender is an X brace that is threaded so you won't have to put a nut on the inside. Helpful! I figured the lower and back mount points were sufficient to hold the fender securely. The thing doesn't way much after all and never supports a load.

For the back, where you have a 6mm hex head bolt on either side, I removed the brake line clip and passed a cap screw through it and the plate, tightened with a nut on the inside. The top bolt will thread back into the X brace mounted inside the fender.

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The benefit of the thin steel plate is that it will conform to meet the shape of the fender, as it doesn't sit flush with the axle mounting hole. This keeps the plastic from warping or breaking from stress. As well, the axle tab has a slight recess, which is used to keep the brake line clip from rotating. We'll use this to keep our plate from rotating instead. This will make sure the fender doesn't shift forward or backward from vibration.

Next just tighten everything up and you are good to ride, with the confidence and security that a rock isn't going to get jammed into your fender. :)

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Awesome - that looks so tough. May be my next set of tires. I like the mad max ready for anything look and do go on the drive in beaches from time to time. I like it! Farkel away - farkel away. :)
 
BrinkHouse,
I think the X brace under the fender is meant to act as a fork brace. I don't know if it's needed or not, but I'm guessing there was some reason Honda put it on there. Like I said, I don't really know what it's meant to do, but my guess is that since you no longer have it bolted to the fork your front end may not be quite as tied together as Honda intended.

Bob
 
BrinkHouse,
I think the X brace under the fender is meant to act as a fork brace. I don't know if it's needed or not, but I'm guessing there was some reason Honda put it on there. Like I said, I don't really know what it's meant to do, but my guess is that since you no longer have it bolted to the fork your front end may not be quite as tied together as Honda intended.

Bob

It's pretty flimsy, really. Definitely not rigid enough to act as any kind of fork brace IMHO. It's more of a fender stiffener/locator/built in carrier for captured fasteners. (bushing spacers and welded on nuts)
 
It's pretty flimsy, really. Definitely not rigid enough to act as any kind of fork brace IMHO. It's more of a fender stiffener/locator/built in carrier for captured fasteners. (bushing spacers and welded on nuts)

Yep, exactly. And it is still being used in my mod, the rear upper bolts pass through and tighten into it, as well as the upper front bolts (though those aren't connected to the fender tabs, not a big deal)
 
Thumbs up!

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just a side note on raising the front fender. Before you do a mod like this, you need to remove the fork caps and collapse the forks all the way to see what clearances you have from the fender hitting. IF YOU HAVE A CROSS BRACE LIKE SW MOTECH CASE GUARDS THE STOCK FENDER TOUCHS AS IS. If you were to raise the fender it will hit and do damage, and maybe lock up the front wheel. a larger front tire will make the bike very slow in turning, and will have a bigger foot print, and will slide easier in the dirt. Dale
 
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just a side note on raising the front fender. Before you do a mod like this, you need to remove the fork caps and collapse the forks all the way to see what clearances you have from the fender hitting. IF YOU HAVE A CROSS BRACE LIKE SW MOTECH CASE GUARDS THE STOCK FENDER TOUCHS AS IS. If you were to raise the fender it will hit and do damage, and maybe lock up the front wheel. a larger front tire will make the bike very slow in turning, and will have a bigger foot print, and will slide easier in the dirt. Dale
So, now that DocWells and perhaps others have done this or similar mods, has anyone crunched his fender on full depression of the suspension?
 
I haven't had any issues yet. But I'm not sure if I've bottomed out yet either. Haven't done any off road since putting the guards on.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
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