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Lowering Links......Math

Slo_Rider

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Folks,

If I can get my newly retired butt out of the bed before noon, I am going to try and put on the center-stand that has been gathering dust for the last six months, and then maybe lowering links.

Therein lies the math conundrum. For the sake of discussion, if I put the center-stand on and there is one inch under the rear tire and then put on the 'Soupys' lowering links.....'unadjusted'....and there are now three inches under the tire does that mean I have lowered the bike a full 2"?

I am not trying to get out of adjusting the links but a 50mm drop would be great and not needing to fiddle with them would be ever 'greater'.

Two other points come to mind.....the first is that the bike will probably not see dirt anytime soon so that gives me some latitude regarding lowering and the second is that I will be doing this behind my apartment on the grass and some pavers so it is not likely to be a comfortable little shade tree effort.

This is just a thought experiment at this point so don't hesitate to tell me this is not a good idea.



Slo_Rider
 
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OK, here's a thought. If you have not yet installed the NC750X centerstand, you might want to pause to consider the centerstand meant for the NC700S, rather than the X. With the bike lowered 2 inches, it will be harder to raise onto the stock centerstand. Also note that your sidestand will also become too long and possibly result in the bike falling over to the right more easily. The S model was never sold in the US, but it's accessory parts can be ordered from japan.webike.net in Japan.
 
Getting a shorter sidestand, either done via cutting/welding or buying an S-model sidestand should be the first step. If you lower your bike 2" with adjustable links, it will be impossible to raise on the standard centerstand without raising the rear wheel using wooden blocks.

If you lower the bike and don't have a shorter sidestand you can't really ride it anywhere!
 
Lowerng Links.....Math

Guys,

First of all, thanks for the replies and your time. I already have the shorter side-stand but may not invest in a shorter center-stand right now.

There is a YT poster who has put lowering links on his bike and has shown how hard it is to get the bike onto the center-stand so I am aware of that issue. His solution is to first roll the bike onto a piece of wood but even then it is not easy.

My last bike was a VFR and I really like using a center-stand, especially since I don't have a garage where I can piddle with the bike.

If anybody has any other thoughts please don't hesitate to share them.




Slo_Rider:cool:
 
if the suspension moves up 2", when you put it on the ground the seat moves down maybe 2/3 that (just looking at how far forward it is).

If you lower the rear 2" and don't do anything to the front, handling will be poor due to the dramatic increase in rake and trail.

2" links without something to reduce suspension travel might be a problem in other ways too: I doubt the tire will hit the undertail but it might, and it's also possible that when you go go through a dip you'll bottom out hard parts before the shock bottoms.

The right way to lower the bike is with a shorter rear shock. I'd suggest buying an RSV4 one like I did, and then have a suspension guy shorten it internally, leaving the fully compressed length about the same as stock to avoid the issue of excessive uptravel. When doing so, you might want to try mounting it to the bike with the spring and bumpstop removed from the shock, so that you can cycle the suspension and check for clearance. Or an older R6 shock might work - I was considering them, but they're shorter than I wanted. Or even a CTX700 shock, although that's no better quality than your stock shock.

CTX700 Shock Swap | Peter Verdone Designs has some good info, although I don't know how different clearance is (I believe the suspension is the same other than the shock, which is shorter on the CTX).


In order to make it handle better than a Mack truck, you'll want to lower the front about the same distance as the rear. The right way to do that is to lower it internally, for the same reason that I caution you on lowering the rear significantly with links (you risk running it into things).
 
Lowering Links.........

Junkie.....

Thanks for the input but I just retired and need to work with what I have until I either win the lottery or get a part time job......which I will probably do anyway at some point. Guess you know I was referring to a job there. :cool:

When I bought the lowering links I was not aware of the possibility of a shorter shock but that is something I will keep in mind, especially in light of my weight, which is a bit over 230lbs.

Right now I have a great motorcycle that I really enjoy but which concerns me every time I come to a stop. If I catch a hole on either side, the bike is going down because I'm not going to try to stop a falling bike. The surgeon that replaced my hip said falling of any kind is generally not a good idea.

The bottom line is that I'm old, beat-up, and broke and just want to get this thing on the road as soon as the weather gets a bit better.

My tax refund might cover a new Sargent seat which might help an inch, but that might be a stretch.

Thanks again and don't hesitate to offer any other suggestions.



Slo_Rider
 
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Lowering Links....Math

Junkie,

That looks like a very interesting idea. Are you saying the CTX700 and the NC750x DCT shocks are interchangeable?



Slo_Rider
 
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I recall reading a magazine article in 2013-14 about the CTX/NCX series that stated both models used basically the same frame but with different tabs added for seat, fuel tank, etc.
 
I recall reading a magazine article in 2013-14 about the CTX/NCX series that stated both models used basically the same frame but with different tabs added for seat, fuel tank, etc.

True. As I understand it, the CTX rear subframe sits lower than the NCX’s, making the fuel tank move forward and eating into the space that would have been for the frunk.

88D273CB-D3ED-42EA-8668-FBD7CFAA3335.jpg
 
The swingarm is the same. The linkage is the same. When I say "the same" I mean it's the same part number, not just similar.

Read the blog post I linked by Peter Verdone. He has some others about his suspension changes too. It's CTX rather than NC but given that the rear suspension is identical other than shock it should all apply. I suppose it's possible that they changed where the top of the shock mounts but that seems unlikely.
 
Lowering Links.....Math

Junkie,

Not sure about that guys background but he seems very bright and I really appreciate your posting the link.

Finally found my ratchet strap so I may begin the lowering process tomorrow before the temperature drops again....

Thanks for all the replies and suggestions and I do like the shorter shock suggestion and will look into that going forward.

There is a company just over an hour away called 'Cogent Dynamics' and several folks have recommended their services so I might give them a call when I see if I get a tax refund this year.

Again, I really appreciate everybody's input.



Slo_Rider
 
I don't know him or anything, just found his site when poking around. We have some mutual friends (there are pictures of people I know on his page).

I think I remember him saying somewhere that he's a mechanical engineer but I could be remembering wrong.
 
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