Does my NC700X need valve adjustment checked?

[Paulplex]

Hi all,

So, bought a new ...to me... NC700X recently. The service history is missing; I've got the last service receipt at 34835 miles, but nothing before that. I know the brake fluid is fresh and full, the oil is new from the service too and a bonus for my purchase, brand new front and rear tires.

Still, I've no idea if the valve adjustment has been done ...I assume it would have (based on the number of miles it's done), but is there anyway to know based on the sound of the engine? Silly question, but does anyone have a sound bite of a 'healthy' engine running as compared to an engine that's in need of a valve adjustment?

I understand that the service interval should be 8000 miles or so on the NC700X - but would your good selves recommend a more frequent service?

Kind regards
Paul

 

[670cc]

The sound comparison method, in my opinion, would prove nothing except possibly a severe mechanical problem. There are no published specifications for “normal” engine sound.

Later models of the NC700X and NC750X call for valve adjustments at 16,000 mile intervals, vs the earlier 8000 mile recommended interval. Some of us have decided on our own to make that new schedule retroactive for earlier model years. I think Honda was being conservative with the early specs.

My advice would be to check the valves now and then every 16,000 miles thereafter, subject to changes based on observed necessity for actual adjustment. It’s the only way you’ll know for sure.

In general, I have no reason or desire to service the engine any sooner than Honda’s recommended intervals unless there is evidence of a problem.

 

[Paulplex]

Thank you Greg; looking at videos on Youtube and a rather fine post by Antarius (LINK), I think I might give this a go tomorrow. Best way to understand your machine is to get right into the guts of it!

 

[Jt105]

I agree. If you cannot find a record through the dealer or previous owner, then you should do the valve check.

JT

 

[SergeantChuck]

Two quick notes if you try it tomorrow. Not knowing what tools you have, I would highly recommend bent tip feeler gauges. I don't know the technical name but the bent tip sure makes it easier. Also, be sure not to over tighten the valve cover bolts. I can't remember the exact torque but it is something like 7lbs. Another words, really low. They WILL break easily, don't ask how I know.

 

[Antarius]

Thank you Greg; looking at videos on Youtube and a rather fine post by Antarius (LINK), I think I might give this a go tomorrow. Best way to understand your machine is to get right into the guts of it!

You can do it man. Go for it!

Read that thread in full as there's some good information and tricks that aren't listed when I initially posted - both by me and others.

And as the others said, get angled feeler gauges or commit to bending your feeler gauges and being okay with it -- and do not over tighten the valve cover bolts. They screw into a rubber/copper washer and that will compress and compress and you'll think "oh I can go tighter." Until, well, you can't. Just get 'em snug. 7ft-lbs aint a lot.

 

[dduelin]

You can do it man. Go for it!

Read that thread in full as there's some good information and tricks that aren't listed when I initially posted - both by me and others.

And as the others said, get angled feeler gauges or commit to bending your feeler gauges and being okay with it -- and do not over tighten the valve cover bolts. They screw into a rubber/copper washer and that will compress and compress and you'll think "oh I can go tighter." Until, well, you can't. Just get 'em snug. 7ft-lbs aint a lot.

I'll underline and emphasize the admonition "do not overtighten the cylinder cover (valve cover) bolts". The torque value is 9 fl/lbs as noted. The service manual says to replace the rubber mounting under each bolt every time the bolts are removed. I think this is a little too often but every 2nd or 3rd time isn't. The problem is the rubber mounting seal under the bolt squishes down over time, losing resilence, and the unsuspecting owner tightens the bolt down and it bottoms out metal-to-metal against the cylinder head and the bolt snaps off. The Honda part number is 90543-MV9-670 and they are only about $3.00 or $4.00 each.

Otherwise the NC is a very easy bike to do a valve check/adjustment on.

 

[DirtFlier]

The bolts for the cyl head cover are shouldered so once they bottom that's it. If you go any tighter after it bottoms, you're just twisting the unthreaded shank of the bolt! I always use my 1/4" drive ratchet for those bolts and hold the handle about partway down to limit how much torque I can apply.

To the original poster - when you buy a used bike, it's always good to service all the normal items so you have a known base to work from. Guessing that the previous owner did something is not a good idea - unless the PO is a personal friend.

 

[Paulplex]

The bolts for the cyl head cover are shouldered so once they bottom that's it. If you go any tighter after it bottoms, you're just twisting the metal shank! I always use my 1/4" drive ratchet for those bolts and hold the handle about partway down to limit how much torque I can apply.

To the original poster - when you buy a used bike, it's always good to service all the normal items so you have a known base to work from. Guessing that the previous owner did something is not a good idea - unless the PO is a personal friend.

Thanks - it was bought from a garage and they kept it a week before I could collect to check road worthiness: she rides well (are bikes always female?) - but it's reading around what the service should entail you start to wonder.

New to bikes as I am, but fond of tinkering on my previous cars, I'm not worried about getting my hands dirty. Just to know what to dirty them on

Sent from my Mi A2 using Tapatalk

 

[DirtFlier]

At least to me, the worst part of the valve clearance check is draining the coolant since the radiator has to be removed. And I usually make a mess of that task! The radiator itself is easy to remove and once that's done, you'll have clear access to the cyl head cover.

The friction surfaces on the NC's rocker arms are generous so once clearance is set correctly they'll stay good for a long time, plus it's a low rev engine and that also helps to keep valve clearance from growing. I believe the clearance check on the latest NC700X is 16k miles, double that from the early models. I have a 2013 model and plan to use the 16k milestone.