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Got both DCT and Manual, will get rid of one.

sk8norcal

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I bought two used NC700X a couple of weeks ago, both had low miles.
2015 NC700X manual
2013 NC700X DCT

I bought both with the intention of keeping one.
My background, fairly new rider, started last fall on a TMax 500cc scooter. (one of the best scooter you can get)
I owned a Ninja 300 for a couple of month to get use to a clutch bike, but got rid of it because I didn't like sport riding ergonomics.

After riding both NC for the last two weeks, I am leaning to get rid of the DCT.
Here's why.

While the NC/DCT is great in traffic, (especially since I am still not that great with the manual), I feel my TMax is still superior in many ways, it's more nimble, easier to split/filter, has full body wind protection, offers more storage, and the CVT has much smoother transmission, and much better throttle control. I also feel the brakes and suspension are better on my TMax, but no ABS.

The NC/DCT has more power/torque, but the TMax is quite adequate. The NC's higher seat height is great for traffic view, but in my mind, sitting higher means more impact force when a crash occurs.

But here's the part that I didn't expect.
I like riding twisties a lot.

After testing both NC's, I much prefer the manual over the DCT.

The DCT feels more sluggish on turn in (I know there is a 30 lbs weight difference, plus I have a centerstand on the DCT bike.)
and heavier feel when countersteering. (not sure why exactly, but I got a couple of theories)

I lost confidence using the Auto S mode, sometimes it shifts when I don't want it to. (I know this is the 2nd gen DCT without the extra sensors)
So I thought using the manual +&- buttons would be just like the manual.
Nope, the throttle response on the DCT has this on/off feel, total not confidence inspiring.
I have read the gear ratios are different on the two bikes.
To me, the DCT gear ratios feel lower.

Anyways, the smoother throttle response and better handling on the manual, made me decide to keep it and will be selling the DCT soon.

450a6bb5b40961f55b0e1cc0c5a6a9b1.jpg
 
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I feel my TMax is still superior in many ways, it's more nimble, easier to split/filter, has full body wind protection, offers more storage, and the CVT has much smoother transmission, and much better throttle control. I also feel the brakes and suspension are better on my TMax, but no ABS.

The DCT feels more sluggish on turn in (I know there is a 20 lbs weight difference, plus I have a centerstand on the DCT bike.)
and heavier feel when countersteering. (not sure why exactly, but I got a couple of theories)

I lost confidence using the Auto S mode, sometimes it shifts when I don't want it to. (I know this is the 2nd gen DCT without the extra sensors)
So I thought using the manual +&- buttons would be just like the manual.
Nope, the throttle response on the DCT has this on/off feel, total not confidence inspiring.
I have read the gear ratios are different on the two bikes.
To me, the DCT gear ratios feel lower.

Anyways, the smoother throttle response and better handling on the manual, made me decide to keep it and will be selling the DCT soon.

View attachment 36476

I am responding to a couple of your points. I totally agree and have always maintained, that the CVT system is better than DCT for traffic and commuting in general because of its overall smoothness. I also agree that the T max is an excellent scooter as was my former FJS600.

With regard to the DCT bike feeling sluggish on turn in, that is nothing to do with DCT imho. It has probably more to do with tyres on the bike, tyre pressures and shock spring preload.

Abruptness of throttle. Try taking all or most of the slack out of the throttle cables. Put some silicone grease inside the twistgrip tube and finally do a DCT reset. You may find a significant difference overall.

I really like the DCT system and it is a huge novelty to me still despite now having over 12,000 kms of use. However I am also fortunate enough to have other bikes to use with the manual system that I have lived with for over 45 years. I never thought at this stage of my motorcycling career that I would take to it so easily.
 
If you sell the DCT, swap the center stand to the Manual. You'll be glad you did. It makes chain maintenance sooo much easier.
 
+1 on keeping the center stand.

Loud ticking sound: you've got two bikes with the same engine. The trick is to determine where the noise is coming from. There are a couple of ways to do this. The first is to use a piece of rubber tubing and hold one end by one ear and move the other end to different parts of the engine and listen to where it gets loudest. I would start at the valve cover at the top of the engine, checking on the left and right sides for valve noise, then moving down the right, rear side of the cylinder block for cam chain noise. The move down to the right side engine cover. A long screwdriver, or metal rod also works well. If you want to get fancy, Harbor Freight sells a stethoscope with a metal rod on the end to do this. With any luck, the manual just needs a valve adjustment.
 
I rode 500 miles of twisties this weekend and when I put it into Manual mode I LOVED it. Coming off a 2016 BMW K1600 and a 2017 R1200RT....I just loved the auto. Thumb down and ride hard...here comes the apex and thumb down again.

Loved it.
 
I rode a manual 2012 NC for 30,000 miles and now I'm nearing 28,000 miles on a 2015 DCT. True, the DCT adds about 22 lbs but the extra weight of the DCT is pretty much between the footpegs and can't be much less mass centralized than that with resulting little effect on the centers of gravity and mass. The extra weight probably can't be felt in handling differences IMO.

I prefer the DCT version myself but I try to say "ride what you like, life's too short to ride the wrong motorcycle". Both versions are very good Hondas.
 
"ride what you like, life's too short to ride the wrong motorcycle"

Wise words. I've even quoted you a few times. Life's too short to use the wrong riding lawnmower, water ski, kitchen appliance, you name it. It's universal wisdom.
 
I was gonna say the same things about keeping the centerstand! Maybe swap the windshields out too if you like the taller one. Not sure how easy it would be to swap those aux lights over, but that may be a good things, as well. Add to the bike you're keeping and sell the other in as stock form as you can to benefit you in the one you keep.


Sorry I can't comment further about which bike to keep as I have only ridden the manual.
 
With regard to the DCT bike feeling sluggish on turn in, that is nothing to do with DCT imho. It has probably more to do with tyres on the bike, tyre pressures and shock spring preload.
.

I thought so too, but already checked tire pressure on both bikes and both bikes seem to have the spring preload on stock setting.

somehow the DCT bike feels more sluggish
 
The S mode on the 2nd gen DCT just works, it is great and feels natural in most situations. From time to time I will override (mostly downshift for more engine breaking) using the paddles, but most of the time the S mode gets it right. And in the 2nd gen, manual shifting keeps you in automatic mode.

I can't bear the D mode (sluggish, no engine break). If you prefer this mode you are riding this bike wrong IMHO. But that's just me, different bikers have different uses.
 
Double checked the manual, it states a 30 lb difference between the clutch non abs vs the DCT version.
So plus the kickstand, guessing a 40+ lbs difference between the two bikes.
 
HONDA – the NC700 bikes in depth… - BIKERGLORY

maybe this article explains why the handling difference,
by having 40 extra lbs low on my DCT bike.

FORWARD C of G vulnerability: over steer, rear wheel lateral instability.
REAR C of G vulnerability: under steer, front wheel lateral instability.
HIGH C of G vulnerability: front end light under power, rear lift on braking – less planted at speed
LOW C of G vulnerability: rear wheel slip under power, front wheel slip on braking – less agile at low speed
 
Maybe lots of things. Maybe the previous owner changed out the fork springs or changed the fork oil to something different. Is the sag absolutely the same on both? Maybe the extra things on the DCT - windshield, aux lights, etc. add up weight higher up where you'll feel it when cornering and braking. A few lbs on a longer moment arm are the equal of more weight on a shorter moment arm. A few lbs between the pegs matters mostly when you can bench press 472 lbs and not 498.

Anyway, why not keep the one you like and enjoy it?
 
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