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drive sprocket replacement

StratTuner

StratTuner

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What is the easiest way to remove the drive sprocket?

How do I stop it from turning so I can wrench off the center bolt that holds it on?

I've got the old chain off, the rear wheel with new sprocket ON.

I don't remember how I ever stopped the front sprocket from turning when I don't want it to.....

Does that bolt loosen when turned LEFT? orrr.... loosen when turned RIGHT?
 
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I haven’t changed a front sprocket yet on the NC, but I did on my old Ninja 250. My thought would be to loosen the sprocket nut first, before removing the chain and rear wheel. You could lock up the rear wheel with a piece of wood. This would be along the same lines as loosening your car wheel lug nuts before you jack up the car.

Is it possible for you to temporarily install the chain so you can use it and the rear wheel to hold the front sprocket?
 
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670cc said:
I haven’t changed a front sprocket yet on the NC, but my first thought would be to loosen the sprocket nut first, before removing the chain and rear wheel. You could lock up the rear wheel with a piece of wood. This would be along the same lines as loosening your car wheel lug nuts before you jack up the car.

Is is it possible for you to temporarily install the chain so you can use it to hold the sprocket?
Click to expand...
Yes, I put the old chain back on and fixed it so the rear wheel can not turn. (wrench through spokes braced on swing arm).

It feels like I'm going to strip it out if I crank on it any harder. It's only supposed to be 40lbs tight...
but if I'm turning it left when it needs right, I'm just making it worse.
 
OK.... it came off....but whatever mechanic put it on last, put it on with a lot more than 40lbs torque!

I hade to use the wrench that more than a foot long and made for really difficult items.

I am no mechanic.... I have no business doing this.
 
StratTuner said:
I am no mechanic.... I have no business doing this.
Click to expand...

I fixed things for a living. Importantant things. Many, many times you don’t know what you’re doing. You try something that seems logical. If that doesn’t work, you try something else. Eventually you find a solution. It’s not all just layed out for the mechanics, either. They often struggle just as you did. You learn a little more each time you try.
 
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670cc said:
I fixed things for a living for 40 years. Importantant things. Many, many times you don’t know what you’re doing. You try something that seems logical. If that doesn’t work, you try something else. Eventually you find a solution. It’s not all just layed out for the mechanics, either. They often struggle just as you did. You learn a little more each time you try.
Click to expand...

+1.

Hell, I just replaced the condenser on my car's AC system. Never done that before. Still works, three days later, too!
 
1wiseguy2 said:
Air impact wrench ...
Click to expand...

whatever that may be... (I'll go google it).

Honestly, the bolt should be torqued to 40lbs....that ain't much.... so it's back on now... with a little more torque than that.

Next problem.... replace the clutch that's making a grinding noise now and then. The last folk who replaced the first (factory) clutch were Harely D. mechanics... I don't trust them.... so time for a new clutch...
 
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Breakaway torque is always much greater than the torque applied to tighten. You can experience this by clamping a nut into a bench vise, then thread a bolt down and tighten it to a certain torque, now try and loosen it while watching the torque wrench or listening for the click.
 
Yep, first front sprocket I replaced on the bike, had to use a breaker bar for more leverage.. I think same machine which twisted on the oem oil filter used to install front sprocket...or same superman....
 
flyinfree.00 said:
Oil filters are notoriously tight from the factory.
Click to expand...

This is due to the oil filter and engine mounting threads being dry when assembled at the factory. Also, since the gasket mating surface is very clean they may not lube the rubber gasket. With numerous heating/cooling cycles the original filter is hard to remove.
 
b_rubenstein said:
This is due to the oil filter and engine mounting threads being dry when assembled at the factory. Also, since the gasket mating surface is very clean they may not lube the rubber gasket. With numerous heating/cooling cycles the original filter is hard to remove.
Click to expand...

True ^^^^^^^^O-ring Handbooks note that the “coefficient of starting friction”, i.e., stiction, increases when the O-ring has been stationary for between 1 week and 1 month, after which time the stiction plateaus.

So.........the oring sticks ( stiction) or glues itself to the block.
 
I just changed out the chain and both sprockets. That caused the sound coming from what I thought was the clutch to quiet considerably... 16K is about tops for the chain and sprockets... beyond that, they get noisy.

Still, there is a sound the clutch makes (growling) that it shouldn't. I have a mechanic I trust and will ask him to look into it.
 
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