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LED Spot Lights

GregC

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So after reading numerous posts and reports that spots increase safety, I decided to install a pair. I love the Denali D2 but not at $350.

So I bought these Amazon.com: 2PACK 12W LED Spot POD RACE LIGHTS Off Road Motorcycle Dirt Bike Fog Driving Work Lights 1200LM IP68 WATERPROOF, 24 Months Warranty: Automotive

and the brackets that are listed on that page. All in for $33.

I also wanted "dual intensity" so they would dim when headlight was on low, and go full power when on hi (like the D2's). The solution was the Skene IQ-275 controller ($70). So the whole set up costs $104. I'm installing this weekend so I'll post some pics.

The cheaper LED pods use Cree leds, are about the same lumens as the D2's, same size, same waterproof rating, and 12w per pod vs D2 10w. I'm not thinking they are anywhere as good as the D2's but at less that 1/3 the cost it's worth a try.


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No doubt these lights will work fine, and the Skene controller is awesome and allows programming multiple brightness settings (3, I believe). The Denali lights are way overpriced.

I mounted similar lights with similar brackets to my Givi engine guards with mounts from ADV Monster.
Crash Bar Light Mount - ADVmonster
 
The Skene guys were great. Had to talk with them about the controller playing nice with the innov Powerhub I installed.


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So I finished the Powerhub install and the LED spots with the Skene controller today. About 2 hours start to finish ... I had started the Powerhub install last weekend but didn't finish because I wanted to re-route a couple things.

Overall, it was about a level 2 out 10 in difficulty. Usual issues with routing wires, had to find the best place to mount the spots (I have an SW crash bar so that's where they went since there really wasn't another good "pipe" to use), dropping push connector and screws into the body and had to fish them out ... the typical stuff. Also had to splice wire to the spots as they only had about 6" of leads out of the box. Used crimped butt splices with heat shrink tubing on all the connections.

The Powerhub and Skene controller are very well thought out devices and clearly were actually tested by people that work on bikes. All the necessary parts are included, the instructions are clear and accurate, and the whole thing is basically just connecting the correct wires with the Posi-Taps and Posi-Locks that are included (except for the add'l Posi-Taps I bought to connect all the various ground wires to the Powerhub ground wire so there is a common ground to everything).

Here are photos of the new spots in high and low ... the Skene controller has them set at 20% with the headlight switched to "lo" and 100% when the headlight switch is on "high." I need to find a flat place with a wall tomorrow to align the spots better, but you get the idea from these photos. Best of all the whole shooting match (Powerhub, spots, Skene controller) totaled about $180 all-in, and another $10 for the extra Posi-Taps. :cool:

Consolidating the links to everything here:

Innovv PowerHub: Motorcycle Camera | Motorcycle Traffic Camera | INNOVV
Spot Lights: Amazon.com: 2PACK 12W LED Spot POD RACE LIGHTS Off Road Motorcycle Dirt Bike Fog Driving Work Lights 1200LM IP68 WATERPROOF, 24 Months Warranty: Automotive
Mounts: Amazon.com: LAMPHUS Cruizer LED Off-Road Light Horizontal Bar Clamp Mounting Kit 1"/ 1.5"/ 1.75"/ 2" [2 Clamps] [Includes Allen Hex Key] [User-friendly] - For Light Bar Bull Bar Tube Clamp Roof Roll Cage Holder: Automotive
Skene Controller: Skene Lights - motorcycle safety lighting
Extra Posi-Taps: Amazon.com: Posi-Tap Yellow (10) Inline Wire Connectors 10,12, GA, AWG, Electrical Fastener, WIRE NOT INCLUDED: Automotive
 

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Those came out looking good. I recently mounted some lights just like them but I didn't buy any additional mounts. I ended up mounting them on the fender.
I want to mount them higher up, like on the light bar lol. I'm going too have to make a bracket for that though, I think
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I also applied silicone anywhere I though the water might find a way in at freeway speeds.
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Without vs with lights on, mine are on/off only
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Xprite 2" Inch 10-Watt Cree High Power LED Off-Road Spot Light (2-Pack) Amazon.com: Xprite 2" Inch 10-Watt Cree High Power LED Off-Road Spot Light (2-Pack): Automotive
 
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I had a pair of these inexpensive LED spots moving them from the VStrom to the NC. Been well pleased. One just died so I'm looking for a replacement.
Are you happy still with the lights you're using? Has the Lamphus clamp worked as expected? (I have Givi engine guards, a smidgen less than an inch diameter; thinking of using the Lamphus mini. Advice? I'm ready to remove the hose clamp currently holding the lights on the bar.)
 
Wow! Great lights and put to good use. Gotta read up on the controller. The lights I have work only when no one is in front of me on a dark road.
'Be nice to have them on, low, for traffic visibility.

Excellent article with links. The pictures are outstanding.
 
The lights, clamps, and controller are all working perfectly with zero issues. Very happy with this set up.

The Skene controller is wonderful and works exactly as advertised.

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So after reading numerous posts and reports that spots increase safety, I decided to install a pair. I love the Denali D2 but not at $350.
Thanks for putting all the info together, this is good stuff. I ordered these LED lights as well, and I am looking to install them this weekend. I plan to wire it directly to the battery through this Fuse/switch harness.
Amazon.com: MICTUNING MIC-B1002 LED Light Bar Wiring Harness, Fuse 40A Relay On-off Waterproof Switch: Automotive
I will need to trim this 10ft long cable to something very short. I may have to install this switch inside the frunk, or somewhere on the plastics. Has anyone done such a thing? Any pointers on routing wires for such a setup? I understand that if I forget to turn off this switch, I will drain the battery. Am I missing anything else?
 
You should really get the accessories sub harness, and add a switch on the handlebars. This way you get proper after ignition power to prevent any drain, and you can easily turn on / off. And if you put the accessories connectors in front of the frunk (accessible through the trap door) wiring is a snap.
 
Yes, but you also need a standard relay and a 7,5 A fuse (they go in the relay box left of the battery, everything is alread pre wired and plug and play). You can get them separately if you don't find a complete kit.

Then you decide if you sacrify the connectors or get male 3 way connectors (only two being wired) to match the sub harness and avoid any modification.

The sub harness gives you 3 to 4 connectors to plug things in. On mine I have heated grips, LED lights and a USB power. You should not exceed 7 amps though.
 
Where are you mounting them? I don't have a light bar nor engine guard on my NC. I would like to find clamps that would fit on the front fork assembly stationary part. Lights look good. Lots of deer, skunks, ground hogs and opossums at night here to look out for. Also, are you running separate switch with relay for new lights?
 
I have Givi crashbars, ideal location for lights. With the accessories sub harness you already have a relay, I just added a handlebar switch in-line with the lights.

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Thanks Jos. I ordered the GIVI crashbars a few days back from Twisted Throttle. Thanks for the pic, I am now able to visualize what my setup will look like. Do you know where you got the standard relay and the 7.5A fuse from?
 
Relay and fuse were included in the accessories sub harness pack I ordered. The Honda part is 08A70-MGS-D30. I think those are pretty standard 40A relay and small factor car / bike fuse you may find in car / bike shop parts. But it looks like the Honda kit can be found for reasonable money.

For connectors, to avoid modifying the harness, look for motorcycle 3 way connectors 2.8mm terminals. Got mine from Banggood but shipping takes some time.
 
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This will be my next (last) farkle. Thanks For putting together such a complete description of the project and all of the components.
>T
 
I did the install today. After I put the bike together, I still see 2 screws and 3 clips left behind. Crap! I could not find any hole with a missing clip/screw. Everything seems solid and in place. I need to take a closer look tomorrow morning. I should have taken notes or pics of everything.

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I did the install today. After I put the bike together, I still see 2 screws and 3 clips left behind. Crap! I could not find any hole with a missing clip/screw. Everything seems solid and in place. I need to take a closer look tomorrow morning. I should have taken notes or pics of everything.

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I know this doesn't help now, but when I'm taking the the plastic off I store the clips and screws in the exact holes they come out of on the bike.
 
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