Okay.. What did I do wrong ?

[Ponyperformance8]

Changing out the chain and front and rear sprockets today...

Removed rear sprocket, called dealer to get torque specs on rear sprocket nuts from the maintenance manual. He called back and said 80 foot lbs.... No problem.

Set torque on 3/5 nuts to 80 foot lbs (with torque wrench), but 2/5 nuts now spin on the studs and won't hold torque... what gives ?

Thanks for the help here guys.

Will

 

[wideguy]

80 ft lbs is far to much for those fasteners. 35-40 is in the right range.

If you can prove your dealer told you 80, get a good lawyer and sue them for the problems they caused you.

If you can't prove it, suck it up and try to be better informed in the future.

 

[kumatae]

On the service manual 18-9, it does indicate 80 lbs•ft for those nut.

Hope your able to find a way to get it fixed...

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[OneGun]

When I look at the size of those studs/nuts, my instinct says that 80 ft. lbs. is a bit high, but it doesn't seem ridiculous. I'm guessing 2 of the studs were inherently weakened by either poor assembly/materials and you did nothing wrong. If you bought the bike new from the dealer you spoke with, it might be worth giving them a call and letting them know what happened.

 

[AsureDawn]

Has your wrench been dropped, has it been calibrated recently? Does it have lb·ft and Nm scales?

 

[Ponyperformance8]

You think I made it up? Why would I go to the trouble, they called me back because they took the time to look it up in the manual. The torque was easily that high, took hogging on a 1/2" breaker bar to break them loose. I put a genuine request for help and advice, clearly this response of yours is neither of those.

 

[Ponyperformance8]

Okay... Seems clear to me that they may have been over-tightened, now why only 2/5 were over tightened and the other 3 held I don't understand, but whatever.

Could the TQ wrench be out of cal? Sure, it's not an expensive wrench, it's possible.

But beyond all of this advice about how a problem occurred, what I could really use is some advice from so many of you guys who know more about bike maintenance than I on how to fix it.

Thanks friends.

 

[dduelin]

Sometimes things just go south and it's nothing you've done wrong. If the wrench was calibrated and the threads were dry the nuts should take 80 ft/lbs.

 

[kpinvt]

Changing out the chain and front and rear sprockets today...

Removed rear sprocket, called dealer to get torque specs on rear sprocket nuts from the maintenance manual. He called back and said 80 foot lbs.... No problem.

Set torque on 3/5 nuts to 80 foot lbs (with torque wrench), but 2/5 nuts now spin on the studs and won't hold torque... what gives ?

Thanks for the help here guys.

Will

Last year I damaged the rear brake disk on my bike. The mechanic I go to told me I would likely need a new rotor and that when I found one to also order new bolts for the rotor. Would it be the case here that you need to replace the bolts when you change the sprocket? You set new bolts to 80 pounds but not used bolts? I hope you get it figured out in short order.

 

[DirtFlier]

[...try to be better informed in the future...]

Owning a service manual can do wonders!

 

[ste7ios]

...And the "Common Service Manual". It provides some basic knowledge about how things must be done... Like torque and how it changes with oil etc.

 

[turbodieseli4i6]

I had a couple of studs come loose when I changed my sprocket. This happened on removal. I just chalked it up to a screw up on Honda's part.
With that said, I pulled the studs and added some loctite and reinstalled. I haven't had any come loose as of yet, but I bought an extra Driven Flange from ebay, just in case.

 

[wideguy]

Okay... Seems clear to me that they may have been over-tightened, now why only 2/5 were over tightened and the other 3 held I don't understand, but whatever.

Could the TQ wrench be out of cal? Sure, it's not an expensive wrench, it's possible.

But beyond all of this advice about how a problem occurred, what I could really use is some advice from so many of you guys who know more about bike maintenance than I on how to fix it.

Thanks friends.

Inspect the threads on the stud. Use a good strong light and a magnifying glass. If they look OK, buy new nuts.

If the threads on the studs look bad, buy new studs and nuts.

 

[wideguy]

I had a couple of studs come loose when I changed my sprocket. This happened on removal. I just chalked it up to a screw up on Honda's part.
With that said, I pulled the studs and added some loctite and reinstalled. I haven't had any come loose as of yet, but I bought an extra Driven Flange from ebay, just in case.

Yep. the screw up was to torque the nuts to 80 ft.lbs in the first place.

They are good self locking nuts. It doesn't take much force at all to keep a sprocket on a hub, and the NC700 engine isn't likely to need extra strong and extra large studs to avoid shearing them all off with the raw brute power.

Torque them to 35 or 40. 60 if you're anal and know nothing about it...

Don't follow the factory specified (in the Helm manual) torque, unless you want to buy new studs and nuts.

That's what I learned here.

 

[Ponyperformance8]

May be confusing with another machine I've had, but Ponyperformance8 can confirm: do the studs have the allen heads on the back of them (inside side of the hub; screw in from the back)? May have been the Aprilia, but if it does you can still torque the nut even if the threads are stripped (i'm assuming the stud stripped the sprocket carrier/hub; or is the nut stripped?). If the studs simply screw in from the outside, you'll have to come up with a repair or replace the hub (hub may not be the correct term).

That's what I'm talking about, very helpful, thank you Krampus.

I just took another look at it and it appears that the threads on the studs in question have stripped. When I remove the hub from the Cush drive and turn it upside down, I cannot see the studs at all, they are covered, almost like they are integrated to the hub itself, which I would interpret to mean I am boned. Weird thing is that the Honda parts diagram shows the studs as being separately sold from the hub.

 

[Ponyperformance8]

...And the "Common Service Manual". It provides some basic knowledge about how things must be done... Like torque and how it changes with oil etc.

Okay what could a Service manual tell me that my dealer could not? Again, I called the Honda dealer who sold me the bike again today and they double checked the TQ, 80 ft lbs is correct.

For you guys who do have the service manual, why don't you check for me and let me know what you find ?

 

[Ponyperformance8]

I had a couple of studs come loose when I changed my sprocket. This happened on removal. I just chalked it up to a screw up on Honda's part.
With that said, I pulled the studs and added some loctite and reinstalled. I haven't had any come loose as of yet, but I bought an extra Driven Flange from ebay, just in case.

How did you go about loosening the studs from the hub? Just put a locking wrench on there and turn it out ?

 

[wideguy]

That's what I'm talking about, very helpful, thank you Krampus.

I just took another look at it and it appears that the threads on the studs in question have stripped. When I remove the hub from the Cush drive and turn it upside down, I cannot see the studs at all, they are covered, almost like they are integrated to the hub itself, which I would interpret to mean I am boned. Weird thing is that the Honda parts diagram shows the studs as being separately sold from the hub.

Whack on the ends of the ruined studs with a plastic or hard rubber mallet, or put a piece of hardwood against it then hit it with whatever hammer you have. They will pop out of the cushdrive. If nothing happens, search for Honda parts and look at the parts diagram for what you are working on. It will show you all the parts in their proper relations... Not always clearly. It's hard to find good tech writers.

Anyway, you will see the parts you need. Copy the part numbers and search for what you need by part number. How long you spend looking for the best deal is related to how much you can afford to spend.

Are you planning to perpetuate your problem by overtorquing the sprocket nuts, after you get new parts and all? You're going to chance a repeat?

 

[AsureDawn]

Don't know if it's the recommended way, but you could put two nuts on it, lock them together, then wrench it out like a bolt with a head on it.

 

[wideguy]

Don't know if it's the recommended way, but you could put two nuts on it, lock them together, then wrench it out like a bolt with a head on it.

Have you looked at a good parts diagram yet? Why not?

If you have, I'm sorry. What did you see there? Be a good person and tell me, save me from having to look myself. Thanks.