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Switchback LED front turn signals

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I installed my switchback signals today. I'm quite pleased with the result. The video looks washed out when the signals are on but the amber is just as bright and the same color as the stock signals were. The white running lights match my aux lights well, and they're plenty bright - I wouldn't want them any brighter.

The only negative aspect is that with the 4-pin LED flasher I used, the 4-way hazard lights will not run without the key switch on as they would stock. Not too big of a deal, I guess.

 

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The flasher came from an Amazon seller. It is plug and play but you'd need to bend the mounting bracket around 180 degrees to mount it in the OEM holder. Not a big deal. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016859894/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have since ordered a second LED flasher style to try that has the same form factor as OEM. I will report on it when it arrives. I'm hoping this relay might retain the key-off hazard flasher function that I lost with the one I have now. L.B.S. had linked to it in the past. Search eBay for: =4MotorcycleRacing = Honda LED Flasher Relay

The 1157 LEDs came from eBay. The challenge was to find bright ones that emitted most of the light to the sides. Many are made to focus the light out the end, which would be desirable in an automotive application, but not so good on the NC since the lamps mount sideways. I can't get a link to work, so search eBay for "1157 Dual Color 2835-48 SMD Switchback" There is a US seller.

The lenses are Honda part numbers 33652-MFL-307, and 33602-MFL-307, a left and a right. The left/right difference is the orientation of the numbers cast into the lense. You do need to trim a little piece off the index ring at the mounting stud, but it is easy and results in a pefect fit.

There are no wiring changes to make. The bike already works by shutting down the white running light when the amber signal comes on, then re-engaging the white running light when the amber signal goes off.

When the bike is off, the LED lamps show just a little through the clear lenses. They either look a little bit goofy or they look high tech, depending on your point of view.
 
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The HUGE downside FOR ME with the key having to be on in order for the Hazard flashers to work
is the simple fact that your headlight is also on which will kill your battery in no time.
Until that issue is resolved, I wouldn't bother changing to the LED setup at this time.
 
The HUGE downside FOR ME with the key having to be on in order for the Hazard flashers to work
is the simple fact that your headlight is also on which will kill your battery in no time.
Until that issue is resolved, I wouldn't bother changing to the LED setup at this time.

That is certainly a valid concern. The flashers work fine with the key on but not with it off. However in all my past 40+ years of riding I can't think of a time I may have used the hazard flashers and wanted the bike shut off. I guess if I was really in a pinch I would reach down and unplug the headlight bulb. Earlier bike models didn't even have 4-way hazard flashers. But again, if it's a concern I suggest avoiding this mod as it is today. As I mentioned, I ordered a second flasher style and will report on it's attributes when I try it out.
 
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Great stuff. I would really like to try something similar next riding season.

Interesting that you lost the key off hazard option, I will be keeping an eye on this thread for your update when you get the new flasher unit.

EDIT: hey look what I found: check out posts 12 and 16, looks like you can just modify the stock flasher rather than buying a new one.

This is why I love forums, I would have never found that out on my own if I were doing this mod.
 
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EDIT: hey look what I found: check out posts 12 and 16, looks like you can just modify the stock flasher rather than buying a new one.

I modified the stock flasher per the thread mentioned above, lifting pin 7. I confirmed that the stock flasher does indeed now flash at the correct rate with LEDs. However the modified stock flasher does not support key off hazard flashers.

Even before modification, the stock flasher did not support key-off hazards on Beemerphile's NC700X, which is loaded with LEDs and many other mods. So frankly, I don't know what to think. Perhaps neither of my bikes is a proper test subject for the key-off hazard flasher test. I can't say I've ever actually used the feature. I just know what the manual says. Perhaps the load is the issue, i.e. one would need to install load resistors when installing the LEDs, something I have no desire to do.

I will still test out the yet to arrive LED flasher and report, but for the most part the feature does not really concern me. It's good to know an LED compatible flasher can be had simply by modifying the stock flasher.

IMG_2262.jpg
IMG_2263.jpg
 
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Little late, but here is some info as to why the hazard flashers do not work.
This comes from a guy who actually found and read the OE relay spec sheet:
How to fix the OE flasher relay for LED lights

I think I understand what the guy is saying here, but . . I have left incandescent lamps in the rear signals, which may differ from that author's scenario. Also, he doesn't specifically mention hazard flashers, although when he says "all 4 LED", I guess that's what he means.

One solution I've entertained is to put a small switch in the frunk that connects the ignition and battery terminals on the relay, but also includes a diode to prevent backfeeding the battery power into the ignition circuit when the key is off. That way, in the extremely rare case where I may want flashers with the key off, I just open the frunk and flip the switch, and the turn signals or hazard flashers would work without the key on. I'd much rather do this than add load resistors or hack up the relay any more.
 
I received the LED compatible flasher from seller williepeng on eBay. The flasher has the same case style as the OEM flasher for NC700X. I plugged it into the beemerphile bike, which is like LED City. The flasher worked fine and flashed at the proper rate. It flashed the 4-way hazards fine too, which on this bike has 8 LED modules doing this and that. However, like everything else I've tried, the 4-way flashers do not work with the key off. This is not an issue for me, but I was just reporting in case anyone else was concerned about that feature.

I did not test this flasher to see if it would indicate if an LED was "out." I suspect it would flash at the same rate no matter what.
 
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I just ordered a set of two LED bulbs from a seller by the name of amazinggift on Ebay 1157 Dual Color 2835-48 SMD Switchback White/Amber LED Turn Signal Light Bulbs | eBay for $17.99 US shipped. I used the search terms listed above ""1157 Dual Color 2835-48 SMD Switchback" and a left and right pair of clear lenses. I think I'll just disconnect the headlight bulb (IF I remember) if I need to use the flashers for more than a few minutes.

Edit:\ I got the lenses from Partzilla for about $24 US shipped.
 
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I think I have all the parts to do this mod now. They have been waiting on me in the bike project box. I will see if I can figure it out and get it swapped this weekend for the turn signals.

I also have an LED headlight to put in, but I am a little hesitant because it doesn't sound very straight forward. I guess I will have to see how much courage I can muster to get these swapped.

I haven't figured out what to do with the tail light and plate light situation yet.
 
I put the LED's in yesterday, the white light is very bright and outshines the headlight to my eye. Now I have to find a flasher module.

Edit/

I just bought one of these:
1x Honda LED Relay CBR650 CBR500 CTX700 NC700 GL1200 LED Flash Rate Fix 4 Pin | eBay

That one flashes fine with LEDs. One mounting option is to take that metal tab and bend it 180 degrees into a U. Then it can hook into the rubber mount that the stock flasher uses. You can see it in my photo in post #1.
 
One problem I had was one of the plastic "bulb" containing the LED's separated from the metal base as I was trying to twist it into place. My bottle of super glue with the handy brush applicator had the said applicator firmly stuck inside the bottle. I was thinking of maybe using hot-melt glue but instead cut a 1/4 inch strip out of a two inch length of silicone self-fusing tape and wrapped that around the flange at the base. That worked well enough and long enough to get the bulb into place.

Edit...

Just what panels would I have to remove to get to the flasher?
 
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As I'm getting ready to add 2 sets of front LED's AND the Kobra LED's to my existing hand guards, I'm thinking about swapping out the stock indicator lights for LED's to at least compensate a little of the electrical draw. Review of this thread and I'm leaning toward these 60 (30 white + 30 amber) models. The physical size looks a hair smaller than the previously linked 48 versions so I should be good with these, thoughts? However I'm not thinking of switching out the lens covers from amber to clear. I kind of like the amber and as I will have plenty of white lights from the two sets I'm going to be adding, feel that the contrast may actually work to my benefit of being seen. Question though, will the white LED shining through the amber lens be bright enough (at least as bright as the stock)? I figure that based on other threads talking about red LED's through red lenses are brighter and a deeper red than white through red lenses, that i will probably end up with brighter signals than stock, but I want to make sure that the DRL function won't be decreased. And then I have to choose to either do the lift pin 7 mod to the relay or swap out the relay with the 2nd one mentioned in post #4 of this thread. Am I missing anything?

I am thinking of swapping out the headlight for an LED too as that will also be brighter and will reduce the draw even further. Just haven't decided which one to go with yet!
 
As I'm getting ready to add 2 sets of front LED's AND the Kobra LED's to my existing hand guards, I'm thinking about swapping out the stock indicator lights for LED's to at least compensate a little of the electrical draw. Review of this thread and I'm leaning toward these 60 (30 white + 30 amber) models. The physical size looks a hair smaller than the previously linked 48 versions so I should be good with these, thoughts? However I'm not thinking of switching out the lens covers from amber to clear. I kind of like the amber and as I will have plenty of white lights from the two sets I'm going to be adding, feel that the contrast may actually work to my benefit of being seen. Question though, will the white LED shining through the amber lens be bright enough (at least as bright as the stock)? I figure that based on other threads talking about red LED's through red lenses are brighter and a deeper red than white through red lenses, that i will probably end up with brighter signals than stock, but I want to make sure that the DRL function won't be decreased. And then I have to choose to either do the lift pin 7 mod to the relay or swap out the relay with the 2nd one mentioned in post #4 of this thread. Am I missing anything?

I am thinking of swapping out the headlight for an LED too as that will also be brighter and will reduce the draw even further. Just haven't decided which one to go with yet!

To each their own, but I’m not sure of the benefit of having a switching white and amber LED behind an amber lens. My guess is you would have a pale amber running light and a rich amber turn signal. Perhaps that is your goal.

When speaking of conservation of current draw, that makes sense if you’re adding more accessories to the bike with constant draw. However conservation for the sake of lights alone and no additional loads will be of no benefit because the simple voltage regulator in the NC just dumps the excess generated power in the form of heat.
 
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