Chain life

[Des]

I am disappointed with needing to renew my NC700X chain after only 20 000kms. I am generally a conservative rider and regularly adjust and clean the chain with kerosene and lube with Motul. My previous chain drive bike (Suzuki GSX1100) used to give me 30 000kms on a chain!

 

[Bandit]

OME chain is not the best ,upgrade with better equipment and smile for many more miles.

 

[2wheels4fun]

I was only able to get 35,00 miles out of the original chain. The sockets needed to be changed around 32,000 miles due to a noise I figured out after 35,000 miles. Only had 8 teeth on the front sprocket. Every other tooth was missing. I do run a chain oilier that greatly helped the chain life and reduce having to always clean and lube it but it does make a mess due to running motor oil in it.

 

[potter0o]

I am disappointed with needing to renew my NC700X chain after only 20 000kms. I am generally a conservative rider and regularly adjust and clean the chain with kerosene and lube with Motul. My previous chain drive bike (Suzuki GSX1100) used to give me 30 000kms on a chain!

Wonder what type of riding conditions you are in, dry and dusty? I don't clean my chain with kerosine very often. Maybe once a year. I have tried Motul and didn't love it. I found it to be a sticky chain lube. I don't think it would be ideal in dusty conditions as I can visualize sand and grit sticking to the lube sanding everything down.

I use a Torco spinoff. It is a thick redish foam when it goes on and turns liquidy in a few minutes. I wipe it down after 5 minutes of resting. I like that the excess drips off mostly after a day so there are very few drip marks where I park. I live in a wet climate and lube the chain every 800-1000km. Currently have 28K km on it and going strong.

Not trying to start a chain lube debate just giving you another viewpoint for you to consider in making your own decision

 

[rippin209]

I second what Bandit said the factory chain didn't last long for most on here. If you put allot if miles on your motorcycle look into getting a chain oiler, I got a Tutoro and have been very happy with it but there are plenty of others if you look into it. Good luck

 

[Joecamel]

just ordered a new chain , have 12,500 miles in so california

chain and sprockets @ $250 installed

 

[Old Can Ride]

I change my chain and sprockets every 12,000 miles. This way I have never failed to get home on any trip!

 

[cattmando]

Adding new wrinkle to the chain life discussion: on my 95 VFR, I used only WD-40, sprayed every other tank. Real purpose of lube on an O-ring chain is to keep the o-rings pliable and keep the original lube inside. That chain went 55,000 miles, only adjusted a few times. Always ran it slightly loose as the aluminum swingers swells when hot.

Now on a 2015 XD with no center stand. Bought a Scottoiler on the recommendation of a good friend. Found there is NO vacuum port on this bike. Disassembled a good bit to find this out. <Heavy Sigh> Don't know how deeply most folks have delved into the bowels of this beast but it ain't easy. Just getting to the air cleaner is a PITA.

Side panels, Frunk, air cleaner box, and battery box add up to a pile, and at least 50 fasteners. The shop manual shows a vacuum line on drawing in chapter one but I never found it. Figured as long as I was in that far I'd fashion my own fix. So...

I pulled the throttle body and drilled thru the rubber boot which connects to the intake manifold. Stuck in a plastic vacuum fitting with a 3/32 hole and glue gunned it in place. Throttle body and air x are now reinstalled with the fitting and vinyl tube hanging out the left side. The Scottoiler needs only a tiny bit of vacuum so should be invisible to the motor.

I'll finish reassembly tomorrow and post some pics. Hoping this farkles will add life to the chain but it already has over 13,000 and P.O. didn't take best care.

I owe other pics as well, I've added a Ron Majors rack, OEM Panniers, Warm And Safe trip heaters, and Bark Buster hand guards. Also the big adjustable wind screen. Soon as I get settled, I'm gonna figure out an Aux tank. Too much farkling, Not enough riding.

 

[flyinfree.00]

50,000 miles with no lube is good. WD-40 is not a lube.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

 

[AsureDawn]

50,000 miles with no lube is good. WD-40 is not a lube.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

It contains a very light oil and, depending on which product you get, may contain a solvent. The main purpose is that of water displacement (so, has some chemical solution for that mixed in too, I guess), as the name implies, so you can apply lubricant after cleaning without worrying about rust forming immediately.

 

[PapaC]

Iv'e also heard that kerosine is an ingredient in WD-40, hence is OK to use for cleaning chain but not, as mentioned by flyinfree.00 for lubricating. I use ChainWax. Can't testify on chain life with it, as I've only had the bike for 4 months.

 

[supertux1]

WD-40 (mostly kerosene) won't turn O or X-rings to mush, but its other magic ingredients will get past them (they are designed to penetrate and displace) into the roller and degrade whatever lube is in there.

That being said, WD-40 is OK for a chain CLEANER on the road or in a pinch, but you might as well just use straight kerosene and a rag (cheaper.)

Just make sure you wipe it / wash it off and apply a real wax or lube afterwards.

 

[PapaC]

WD-40 (mostly kerosene) won't turn O or X-rings to mush, but its other magic ingredients will get past them (they are designed to penetrate and displace) into the roller and degrade whatever lube is in there.

That being said, WD-40 is OK for a chain CLEANER on the road or in a pinch, but you might as well just use straight kerosene and a rag (cheaper.)

Just make sure you wipe it / wash it off and apply a real wax or lube afterwards.

Good to know. Thanks.

 

[Deleted member 5383]

So many opinions out there on what WD-40 has in it, and does... I've seen a couple guys who've blogged long-term use of WD-40 for X-ring chain lube, reported no problems whatsoever. Maybe I'll do a search and put up a link or two when I have time.

Myself, I found that Maxima Gold wax eventually built up on sprockets and chain path, and attracted a lot of crud that required more cleaning than using Dupont Teflon Chain-Saver. You can actually go real light on either, but I suppose most people get paranoid that they might not have applied enough ; }

 

[potter0o]

I started out with Motul chain lube. Didn't like the stickiness of it. Felt like it just attracted dirt. I'm sure it was great at conditioning the O rings but in my mind I was visualizing the grit sanding down the chain so one can and I was done.

I tried the Maxima Chain Guard based on a mechanic recommendation. I liked that it went on as a foam which helped reduce overspray. It turned into a liquid on the chain after a couple of minutes. What I didn't like is even after wiping off the excess the chain would still drip for a couple of days.


The current lube i'm using is super foamy like shaving cream. Has a slight reddish tinge to the foam and also turns to a liquid within a few minutes. After wiping off the excess it doesn't drip anymore. I'm travelling at the moment so can't get the name for you but it's a keeper for me. Only seen it at one shop in my area. They bring it in as it is what their mechanic likes.

In regards to cleaning I am about a once a year with kerosene. For lube I do 800-1000 km based on what works out for my schedule. Only takes a few minutes at the end of my commute. Nearly at 30,000km which would put me at 18.6k miles.

 

[AsureDawn]

Here's a screenshot of the msds (more here) for gen purp wd-40--someone else may translate the chemical names to lay-mans terms, or you can search'em up yourself. On their faq they say they use "highly refined" mineral oil in wd-40.

Hopefully the controversy may now be laid to rest ...probably not.
Edit: really small image...lets try this:

• Aliphatic Hydrocarbon 45-50% Flammable Liquid Category 3
• Petroleum Base Oil <25% Not Hazardous
• LVP Aliphatic Hydrocarbon 12-18% Aspiration Toxicity Category 1
• Carbon Dioxide 2-3% Simple Asphyxiant
• Non-Hazardous Ingredients Mixture <10% Not Hazardous

 

[670cc]

I like the claim on the Bel-ray Super Clean Chain Lube.

• Sprays on and dries quickly into a protective coating that will not fling off or pick up dirt and sand.

Based on that you should never need to clean the chain or reapply the lube!

 

[showkey]

WD-40 (mostly kerosene) won't turn O or X-rings to mush, but its other magic ingredients will get past them (they are designed to penetrate and displace) into the roller and degrade whatever lube is in there.

That being said, WD-40 is OK for a chain CLEANER on the road or in a pinch, but you might as well just use straight kerosene and a rag (cheaper.)

Just make sure you wipe it / wash it off and apply a real wax or lube afterwards.

Good to know. Thanks.

Unfortunately it's not true ( kerosene)....as per multiple sites including WD40 FAQ.

"WD-40 does not contain fish oil, contrary to a popular myth, nor does it contain silicone, kerosene, water, wax, graphite, chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs"

See the other post for MSDS for the ingredients.....that first 40-50% is the propane hydrocarbon propellant

 

[cattmando]

I am a proponent of WD40 for luring gthe chain. I got 55,000 miles out of the original chain on my 95 VFR by spraying it every other tank (400/450 miles.)

Just replaced the chain on my NC at 17,000. Guaranteed the original owner didn't do due diligence.

It got a Scott Oiler now. Need to fill the reservoir.

 

[yticolev]

Iv'e also heard that kerosine is an ingredient in WD-40, hence is OK to use for cleaning chain but not, as mentioned by flyinfree.00 for lubricating. I use ChainWax. Can't testify on chain life with it, as I've only had the bike for 4 months.

I used a chain wax too. Just replaced the chain at 15,000 miles, but it should have been replaced at least a thousand miles ago. However, that pales to 55,000 miles that Cattmando got with WD-40. Competing theories of chain longevity for sure.

I get amazing life from bicycle chains with wax, but I hot dip them. That is far superior to a chain wax drip or spray where usually 80% or so is carrier, thus making it difficult to really fill the chain spaces (the theory goes that wax is not a lubricant either, but works by excluding wear from dirt ingress).

Not sure what I will use on my O-ring chain.