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Evitek G6 H4 LED headlight bulb installation

dduelin

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The Evitek G6 H4/9003 LED bulb is a plug and play replacement for the OEM 60/55 watt halogen bulb. It's available on Amazon for $43-$45 for a pair. This bulb has been installed in some ST1300s including mine and demonstrates a good tight beam pattern with a pure bright white light. I will report back after some night riding on the NC700X but in the ST1300 it's a very good light pattern, does not provoke flashing from oncoming traffic, and is noticeable brighter and projects further. On my bikes the white light output matches the LED accessory lighting on either side and below. It's very bright to oncoming motorists in the daytime. What separates the Evitek G6 from other LED headlight bulbs is the two spoon shaped shields on either side mounted below the LED chips. The shields give a sharp cut-off of the light pattern and reduces scatter and glare.

The bulbs have a ballast or control box that has to be zip tied out of the way after the three-pin plug is connected to the stock headlight bulb connector. The bottom of the bulb is an enclosed 5,000 rpm fan to cool the bulb. The fan is like the ones in laptop computers.



The three tabs that orient the bulb in the stock headlight reflector. Most aftermarket H4/9003s have the bottom two tabs at 120 degrees and have to be removed or bent backwards so the bulb can fit in the OEM reflector. These fit perfectly with no modification.



Before picture. The light output of this stock bulb looks yellow after adding LED accessory lighting. It was/is always yellow but the LED Mondomoto lights contrast white and highlight the yellow halogen output. The yellow cast is best seen on the beak under the light. While yellow it's no different from other halogen lighting of the last 15-20 years. The NC700X has a good stock headlight and I was never unhappy with it in the last 45,000 miles but with the advent of affordable and good LED lighting it was time to upgrade to LED.



With the lighting in my garage it is difficult to see how white LED white is. The white light on the beak shows it:



 
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The Evitek G6 H4/9003 LED bulb is a plug and play replacement for the OEM 60/55 watt halogen bulb. It's available on Amazon for $43-$45 for a pair. This bulb has been installed in some ST1300s including mine and demonstrates a good tight beam pattern with a pure bright white light. I will report back after some night riding on the NC700X but in the ST1300 it's a very good light pattern, does not provoke flashing from oncoming traffic, and is noticeable brighter and projects further. On my bikes the white light output matches the LED accessory lighting on either side and below. It's very bright to oncoming motorists in the daytime. What separates the Evitek G6 from other LED headlight bulbs is the two spoon shaped shields on either side mounted below the LED chips. The shields give a sharp cut-off of the light pattern and reduces scatter and glare.

The bulbs have a ballast or control box that has to be zip tied out of the way after the three-pin plug is connected to the stock headlight bulb connector. The bottom of the bulb is an enclosed 5,000 rpm fan to cool the bulb. The fan is like the ones in laptop computers.



The three tabs that orient the bulb in the stock headlight reflector. Most aftermarket H4/9003s have the bottom two tabs at 120 degrees and have to be removed or bent backwards so the bulb can fit in the OEM reflector. These fit perfectly with no modification.



Before picture. The light output of this stock bulb looks yellow after adding LED accessory lighting. It was/is always yellow but the LED Mondomoto lights contrast white and highlight the yellow halogen output. The yellow cast is best seen on the beak under the light.



With the lighting in my garage it is difficult to see how white LED white is. The white light on the beak shows it:



Thanks for posting I'm to cheap to do trial and error myself glad to hear that it works well, I'm going to order one today
 
I just installed a cyclops LED replacement bulb last week. It looks very much like that one and probably functions similarly, but was $20 more expensive! It was also a colossal pain in the *** for me to install since I did not remove any plastics, but that's the nature of the task I suppose.
 
I just installed a cyclops LED replacement bulb last week. It looks very much like that one and probably functions similarly, but was $20 more expensive! It was also a colossal pain in the *** for me to install since I did not remove any plastics, but that's the nature of the task I suppose.
Folks have been trying LEDs in the headlight of the ST1300 for a while and it was the shielded LED design of the Evitek that finally convinced me to try them. The Cyclops does not have an external shield to flatten and cut off the upper part of the reflected light. Are you happy with the Cyclops pattern? I don't know much of anything about them so maybe the LEDs are designed to give a good pattern.

The inner part of the Evitek twists 1/8th turn and comes out of the base so it's pretty easy to fit the base and clip the retainer in place before inserting the rest of the bulb.
 
Any recommendations for a LED tail light? Heard about someone putting in one that was to hot and melted his tail light lens lol
 
I just found this message under NC700X search on Amazon, wasn't there before I'll try and look into that
 
Folks have been trying LEDs in the headlight of the ST1300 for a while and it was the shielded LED design of the Evitek that finally convinced me to try them. The Cyclops does not have an external shield to flatten and cut off the upper part of the reflected light. Are you happy with the Cyclops pattern? I don't know much of anything about them so maybe the LEDs are designed to give a good pattern.

The inner part of the Evitek twists 1/8th turn and comes out of the base so it's pretty easy to fit the base and clip the retainer in place before inserting the rest of the bulb.

The light I installed has shields almost exactly like yours. The cutoff pattern was about the same as the OEM headlight. I did have to lower the headlight alignment (and that screw took forever for me to find). The base screwed off the same way yours did, but the challenge for me was in having the rubber boot installed between the fan and base and then installing it with the limited space in the fork area and using my fingers to multitask holding each part in a certain spot. Getting that retaining clip back into place was really difficult even with my chain nose pliers and I scraped up my knuckles maneuvering everything. Keep in mind I had no experience with anything like this and relied on posts and pictures in this forum for the install, so I knew going in that my install would not be that smooth.
 
Folks have been trying LEDs in the headlight of the ST1300 for a while and it was the shielded LED design of the Evitek that finally convinced me to try them. The Cyclops does not have an external shield to flatten and cut off the upper part of the reflected light. Are you happy with the Cyclops pattern? I don't know much of anything about them so maybe the LEDs are designed to give a good pattern.

The inner part of the Evitek twists 1/8th turn and comes out of the base so it's pretty easy to fit the base and clip the retainer in place before inserting the rest of the bulb.
How's the cutoff Dave? $22.50 is a very reasonable price per light. If they last and have quality output.
I have an older Cyclops LED and the high beam quit after a while. I had a backup, but am always looking for upgrades when it comes to lighting.
Thanks
 
Thanks for this post. Definitely going to try it out. That's super cheap and has got to be better than the dim bulb that my bike came with. Thanks.
 
The light I installed has shields almost exactly like yours. The cutoff pattern was about the same as the OEM headlight. I did have to lower the headlight alignment (and that screw took forever for me to find). The base screwed off the same way yours did, but the challenge for me was in having the rubber boot installed between the fan and base and then installing it with the limited space in the fork area and using my fingers to multitask holding each part in a certain spot. Getting that retaining clip back into place was really difficult even with my chain nose pliers and I scraped up my knuckles maneuvering everything. Keep in mind I had no experience with anything like this and relied on posts and pictures in this forum for the install, so I knew going in that my install would not be that smooth.
Well, I took some pictures against my garage door then when riding around a while tonight and the pattern was very disappointing. The light is aimed way too high so I'm glad to read you needed to lower your aim as well. I turned the screw 4 turns down and it hardly made a difference. I am done messing with it tonight.

I had the advantage of reading a year's worth of posts concerning these G6 LED installations plus changing several bulbs in the ST1300 so I knew to separate the lamp from the base and clip the base into place by itself, then get the boot on and secured in place, then insert the bulb thru the boot and twist 1/8th turn into place.
 
Well, I took some pictures against my garage door then when riding around a while tonight and the pattern was very disappointing. The light is aimed way too high so I'm glad to read you needed to lower your aim as well. I turned the screw 4 turns down and it hardly made a difference. I am done messing with it tonight.

I had the advantage of reading a year's worth of posts concerning these G6 LED installations plus changing several bulbs in the ST1300 so I knew to separate the lamp from the base and clip the base into place by itself, then get the boot on and secured in place, then insert the bulb thru the boot and twist 1/8th turn into place.

That would have worked well, and saved me a cut on my thumb from the sharp edge of the base. That makes so much sense! Doggone it! I had to lower the beam about 5 or 6 inches when comparing against a photo i took of the original against the garage wall before the install. I lost track of how many revolutions of the screw that was. A lot. I actually started to move the lateral alignment by accident and had to reposition it. It was a long night. Next I am going to install the admore light bar on the back, and again I have never done anything like that before. I love learning new things.
 
That would have worked well, and saved me a cut on my thumb from the sharp edge of the base. That makes so much sense! Doggone it! I had to lower the beam about 5 or 6 inches when comparing against a photo i took of the original against the garage wall before the install. I lost track of how many revolutions of the screw that was. A lot. I actually started to move the lateral alignment by accident and had to reposition it. It was a long night. Next I am going to install the admore light bar on the back, and again I have never done anything like that before. I love learning new things.
At least you didn't cut up the boot which some people do because they can't get it over the fan assembly. Next time you'll know how and it will be a breeze.

I know the vertical adjustment on my ST1300 has a very fine thread and it takes a train load of turns to make meaningful changes but I was hoping 1, then 2, then 4 would work. I've had a long day so I'll come at it again over the weekend. Oddly, as high as the beam is no one flashed me riding around tonight.
 
IMG_20160930_205945.jpg

I decided to exit my garage and take a picture of the pattern. It's definitely not perfect with that light leakage at the top, and slightly domed cutoff. I also think I need to move it a bit to the left (I am not in the center of the driveway, though, it's not that off).
 
Well, I took some pictures against my garage door then when riding around a while tonight and the pattern was very disappointing. The light is aimed way too high so I'm glad to read you needed to lower your aim as well. I turned the screw 4 turns down and it hardly made a difference. I am done messing with it tonight.

I had the advantage of reading a year's worth of posts concerning these G6 LED installations plus changing several bulbs in the ST1300 so I knew to separate the lamp from the base and clip the base into place by itself, then get the boot on and secured in place, then insert the bulb thru the boot and twist 1/8th turn into place.
Let us know how it turns out
 
Dave, any reports (perhaps from your ST group) on how these particular LEDs work with a modulator? Do they go bright/dim per the regulations, or do they go bright/off?
 
Well, I took some pictures against my garage door then when riding around a while tonight and the pattern was very disappointing. The light is aimed way too high so I'm glad to read you needed to lower your aim as well. I turned the screw 4 turns down and it hardly made a difference. I am done messing with it tonight.
.
I feel better today. I discovered a mistake in the Honda Service Manual page 3-28 Adjusting Headlight Aim. The text says to turn the adjustment screw counterclockwise to lower the beam. I kept turning it CCW last night then going out around the neighborhood and the beam pattern got no better, actually worse. I tried adjusting it with the beam against the wall from 5 feet away to see how much a turn lowered it and discovered I was RAISING the aim with a CCW turn of the adjustment screw and making it worse. I was at 10 turns CCW so I reversed to CW for 14 turns, or 4 down from the stock position. I got up early this morning for a ride and checked it and it was much better. I took a BEFORE picture on the stock low beam an AFTER with the LED low beam. This is about 20 feet away.



 
I had completely forgotten that I did the same thing. The manual is incorrect about the direction, yes. I kept taking pictures with my cell phone with a visual marker to compare to my original photo and discovered it was moving in the wrong direction. Your pattern looks very good. I think I am going to remove it and reinstall the way you suggested with adding the bulb last and then readjusting if necessary. I think the light leakage at top is off center in my image because of my messing around with that screw and not getting it quite right.
 
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