NC700X Front Brake Pads

[SergeantChuck]

I'm looking to find information on which front brake pads others have used on the 700X. I do not have a DCT and my bike is a 2012 model. I found plenty of info on the rear brakes but I cannot find much on the front.

I'd like to change my brake pads over the Christmas break. Please let me know your thoughts on the pads you used. I know many will suggest sticking with the stock pads which is definitely an option.

Please reply with part numbers and the site you made the purchase. Thanks

 

[deedub]

I went with OEM replacements front and back, ordered from Partsfish. I got 30K from the original fronts and 35K from the backs, which seemed like a good run, so I didn't want to mess with success. My bike's the same as yours - 2012 manual trans.

 

[StratTuner]

My mechanic recommended [THESE]. I'm not smart enough to know if they are better/worse than anything else, but they seem to stop my NC just fine.

 

[670cc]

I'm told the EDC HH pads are more abrasive and will wear the disc faster. Unfortunately I didn't know that before I put them on my Goldwing. I'd be curious if they accelerated disc wear on anyone's NC brakes.

 

[Old Can Ride]

I use Kevlar pads, and yes EBC does make Kevlar, but they make others also. I am cheap, so I use another brand. Kevlar pads last, and last, and last without damage to the rotor. Had no problems with Kevlar pads.

 

[SergeantChuck]

I went with OEM replacements front and back, ordered from Partsfish. I got 30K from the original fronts and 35K from the backs, which seemed like a good run, so I didn't want to mess with success. My bike's the same as yours - 2012 manual trans.

I am a few hundred miles shy of 30,000. Getting real close to metal on metal. I'll look at Partsfish. Thanks

 

[SergeantChuck]

I'm told the EDC HH pads are more abrasive and will wear the disc faster. Unfortunately I didn't know that before I put them on my Goldwing. I'd be curious if they accelerated disc wear on anyone's NC brakes.

Thanks for the info. I'll stay away from those just in case the concerns are valid.

 

[SergeantChuck]

I use Kevlar pads, and yes EBC does make Kevlar, but they make others also. I am cheap, so I use another brand. Kevlar pads last, and last, and last without damage to the rotor. Had no problems with Kevlar pads.

View attachment 27847

Seems like a fair price even at $23. Thanks for the info

 

[oldmanaz]

At just over 10,000 miles I experienced a strange feeling when using the front brake. The brake lever felt spongy and I had flushed the brake fluid a few month before.

On inspection of the brake pads (front and rear) it looked like they were close to being worn down. Can't remember the measurements of the pads when I took them out, maybe 2mm left on the fronts.

Opted for the Honda replacement pads (front and rear). I work at an auto dealership as a technician and have seen problems (noise and fitment) with aftermarket brake parts. Just easier to get the Original Parts and have no worries.

$40 per axle from Rocky Mountain ATV. The 'spongy' front brake lever went away after replacement.

I do a lot of city commuting and not surprised at the wear.

 

[showkey]

Example of a dished rotor from aggressive pads:

 

[Antarius]

I will ditto the above:

I do not like EBC HH or any sintered pad for the "street," or honestly even for the track for that matter. You can increase the "bite" by putting in good fluid and stainless or kevlar lines, you don't need an aggressive pad.

My recommendation would be the OEM pad. Why? It's simple: You are riding the bike as the Honda engineers designed the bike to be ridden. So use the equipment they designed it around. If you were doing something -- like say racing -- different than it was engineered for, you'd need to make a change. But you don't.

FYI, I sent you a PM.

 

[SergeantChuck]

FYI, I sent you a PM.

I received your PM. I'd like to publicly thank you for the brake pads. It is very much appreciated. I'll be installing them as soon as they arrive.

 

[tew47]

What is the difference between the ceramic, kevlar and standard brake pads? Do they brake better and last longer?

 

[StratTuner]

I'd really like to try kevlar.... I'm hoping for long lasting and not as abrasive.

 

[Antarius]

I received your PM. I'd like to publicly thank you for the brake pads. It is very much appreciated. I'll be installing them as soon as they arrive.

No problem man!

What is the difference between the ceramic, kevlar and standard brake pads? Do they brake better and last longer?

All brake pad compounds have "pros and cons," like anything else in life. If Kevlar, for instance, lasted longer and braked harder -- there would be no other option.

The most common difference between the compounds is how they work at temperature, and what temperature they continue to work at, what temperature they fail at as well as durability and then of course feel.

I'll give you a few examples:

An organic pad generally lasts a good amount of time (lots of OE pads are organic), are generally pretty soft so they get UP to temperature quickly and begin working rapidly. They have good "feel" because of this. The downside? They can overheat if you're using them in say, a track setting, and begin to fade.

The opposite side of the spectrum would be a carbon based pad. The pad will be very very good at dissipating heat (in general). The pad will feel numb and as if it's not working (no bite) until its got a lot of temperature in it, but once it does have the temperature in it -- it works very well and it can tolerate much higher temperatures than a basic organic pad might. Hence why they're often used for racing.

I could go down the list with compounds and give you a general "pro and con" of them; But you also have to realize that each manufacturer is going to have its own benefits and downsides, depending on the design and exact compound makeup.

What I would generally recommend for a street bike, that is used as expected by its engineers, is to go with an OEM pad. If you do not want to go with an OEM pad, I would recommend you buy a pad that is DESIGNED for street use. That may be Kevlar, it may be sintered, it may be organic or semi metallic or ceramic. Bottom line, buy one that is designed for your use.

I see far too often people buying race pads on their street bike and then wondering why they aren't getting the braking power out of their BREMBO MonoBlock dual calipers that my (on my Superduke) bike does with a standard Galfer organic pad. It's because of heat, and making sure you are using equipment that is operating within the heat range you are likely to be using them.

Finally, and I'm sorry for the long post, here's Galfer's very basic guide to their compounds:

Motorcycle Brake Pads

 

[StratTuner]

Wow! Don't apologize for the long remarks. It's all good and useful information.

Based on your remarks, I think I'll go with the organic or possibly sintered. I ride very cautiously and seldom stress the brakes. I don't need the really high heat items.

many thanks for helping me figure that out.

 

[Antarius]

Wow! Don't apologize for the long remarks. It's all good and useful information.

Based on your remarks, I think I'll go with the organic or possibly sintered. I ride very cautiously and seldom stress the brakes. I don't need the really high heat items.

many thanks for helping me figure that out.

Strat, please don't shy from Kevlar just because of that post. I wasn't trying to persuade or dissuade anyone from any particular compound. I just want people to make informed decisions based on what they actually need. I'd be willing to bet there's lots of Kevlar pads out there that totally fit within your parameters! The key is to make sure you're looking for the parameters in the first place.

The example I give people is oil: Honda GN4 is great oil, works just fine for our daily ridden commuter / touring Honda NC700x's. I run it in my Honda all day long. However, if for some reason I decided to start racing my Honda - thus increasing the load on the oil and temperature that it would be enduring - I'd run an oil designed around that purpose with different specifications as well as change it more often due to the tighter tolerances required when, well, racing.

Brakes are no different. There's a ton of great stuff out there -- but make sure the parameters fit your need, otherwise you're doing yourself a disservice.

Again, sorry guys for the long windedness!

 

[Old Can Ride]

Highly discourage the use of race compound pads and tires by anyone on the street, but don't suspect folks on NCs do such things.

I agree, keep the track on the track.

 

[tew47]

Think I am going with Bike Master H1071 for the front.

 

[SergeantChuck]

Thanks again Antarius!

Just finished changing the brake pads. Took me maybe 30 minutes. Quite easy. The toughest part might have been putting the caliper back on after the new pads were installed. Took her for a spin and all is well.

If anyone is interested, this is what my old pads look like after recently passing 30K miles. Obviously it won't be the same for all. I live in a fairly congested large city so a decent amount of stops and go's.