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Thread: Recommended Chain,Sprocket, and Costs

  1. #21
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    Great info
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  2. #22
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    Strat, if you want to put the new chain on yourself, and don't have a rivet tool, you can buy a clip-type master link instead. Unless you have your chain vendor cut it to length for you, though, you'll also need a chain breaker ($10 - 25 from a farm-supply store, or probably other places, too).

  3. #23
    Senior Member Recommended Chain,Sprocket, and Costs StratTuner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MZ5 View Post
    Strat, if you want to put the new chain on yourself, and don't have a rivet tool, you can buy a clip-type master link instead. Unless you have your chain vendor cut it to length for you, though, you'll also need a chain breaker ($10 - 25 from a farm-supply store, or probably other places, too).
    Wow... never used either of those, so it's off to the local mechanic. I get the idea as I've repaired bicycle chains on the road during an event, but a MC chain has to be a little tougher.

    I do have the 1/2" drive torque wrench for the back wheel. I use it to loosen the back wheel when adjusting the chain tension.
    Last edited by StratTuner; 1st October 2013 at 12:53.
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  4. #24
    Senior Member Recommended Chain,Sprocket, and Costs StratTuner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Larryb View Post
    Great info
    Yeah, I get that feeling a lot around here. The good people on this board make owning an NC easier and a lot more fun!
    - StratTuner
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    "If you don't understand him, and he don't die young,
    he'll probly just ride away."
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  5. #25
    Commuter Extraordinaire Recommended Chain,Sprocket, and Costs
    Recommended Chain,Sprocket, and Costs
    SergeantChuck's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StratTuner View Post
    Yeah, I get that feeling a lot around here. The good people on this board make owning an NC easier and a lot more fun!
    I agree. I'm a member of a major jeep wrangler board and it gets out of hand constanly. Even the owner/member contributes. Its got to the point I don't go there much anymore. This board is much more civil and helpful.

  6. #26
    Senior Member Recommended Chain,Sprocket, and Costs bamamate's Avatar
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    A couple of things Strat,

    Generally it is not recommended to use a torque wrench for removing bolts/nuts. You can damage it and/or get it out of spec by applying too much pressure to loosen a bolt/nut. Pickup an inexpensive breaker bar to do that. If you have no choice and it is a clicker type torque wrench, set it to the max torque setting before using it to remove. On the bar/pointer style wrenches don't take it past the max rating and I have no idea on the electronic ones as I've never used one of those fancy ones.

    Something to consider, sprocket Center has a rivet tool for $75. Figure 1-2 chain changes and you will probably have paid for it over paying someone....just a thought.

    Motion Pro PBR Chain Breaker & Riveting Tool Kit - Tools & Maintenance

    Previous: Kawasaki MT1A 75 (small fat tires, auto clutch), CB400 (Hawk), and after a 20+ year hiatus a NC700X

  7. #27
    #1 Elite Recommended Chain,Sprocket, and Costs
    Recommended Chain,Sprocket, and Costs
    Beemerphile's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bamamate View Post
    Something to consider, sprocket Center has a rivet tool for $75. Figure 1-2 chain changes and you will probably have paid for it over paying someone....just a thought.

    Motion Pro PBR Chain Breaker & Riveting Tool Kit - Tools & Maintenance
    Please remember that there are two type of rivets: solid pin and hollow pin. Make sure that the type of tool you get will rivet the type of master link you have.

  8. #28
    Fixed Idea Recommended Chain,Sprocket, and Costs
    Recommended Chain,Sprocket, and Costs
    L.B.S.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bamamate View Post
    Something to consider, sprocket Center has a rivet tool for $75. Figure 1-2 chain changes and you will probably have paid for it over paying someone....just a thought.
    When I did my last new chain install, (different bike than NCX) my rivet "tool" was a giant C-clamp, duct tape, and an old shifter detent lock out ball bearing from the High/Low/Low 4X4 transfer case in my Samurai.

    I can hear Lee's hair standing on end from all the way across the continent, hee hee hee
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  9. #29
    Senior Member Recommended Chain,Sprocket, and Costs bamamate's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beemerphile View Post
    Please remember that there are two type of rivets: solid pin and hollow pin. Make sure that the type of tool you get will rivet the type of master link you have.
    Thanks for that reminder. I posted that one because it works with hollow nose & soft nose rivets which I took soft nose to be the same as solid pin. Is that the same?

    Previous: Kawasaki MT1A 75 (small fat tires, auto clutch), CB400 (Hawk), and after a 20+ year hiatus a NC700X

  10. #30
    Senior Member anglachel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bamamate View Post
    Something to consider, sprocket Center has a rivet tool for $75. Figure 1-2 chain changes and you will probably have paid for it over paying someone....just a thought.
    That's generally the bar I set for doing my own work, if I can buy the tools, and understand how to use them, cheaper then I can have the job done once.

    Of course the flip side of that is that I don't buy cheap tools...
    partially because my father was a mechanic for 30 years, and I was spoiled as a kid using professional grade tools all the time... (it did have it's set back at times as he worked mostly on semi trucks and some tools were a little over kill on my ford ranger... though on the flip side the tool he had for drum brakes on tractor trailers gave so much leverage on the ranger that the springs gave practically no resistance at all..)
    partially because I can't stand breaking tools midway through a job...
    partially because I find that it costs more to buy the expensive one the second time around then just to buy quality the first time around...

    All that being said, I can count dozens of jobs where I spent a fair amount of money on tools, to save a couple hundred bucks... and I have very few tools that I've only used once, actually most of the tools I've only used once are all in the same tool box for the bicycle... and I have a few that I've not had the chance to use yet for the motorcycle (most suggested here at one point or another and purchased to get free shipping on an amazon order, but they'll get used soon enough)

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